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I'm measuring 39-1/8" from a flat spot on the face of the transfer case flange to a flat spot on the face of the axle flange. The 12'+ driveshaft will be plenty for you if you are trying to save a buck for now.

The end game for me is Adams shafts but I'm just trying to get this back on the road for now.

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I wouldn't think 3/8" would raise any red flags unless someone else thinks differently. I'll see what's available on the used markets and just order the rear Adams for now, thanks.
 

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One solution that may save you some $$$ for now depends on what year model you have. I know FOR SURE that the front shafts for the 12+ models are a bit longer. I am actually running a new takeout front shaft from a 15' model on my jeep with the swap and it fits with ease. The travel on the slip is about dead center on whats available to go both ways. I stretched my front axle forward about 1.25" as well.
This could save you some $$$ if you only had to buy the rear shaft and there are always plenty of super low mile or new takeouts available around for free or super cheap.
Inquired about measurement on a 2012-2017 front shaft and response was 34.5" compressed to 37.25" extended. Not even close to my 39.5, which is the bottom measurement. Top is 40.25". Just to let everyone know who will be doing this swap who may not already know, you'll need to add about $900-$1000 minimum for new shafts. No complaints here as I knew this swap would not be cheap. From what i'm hearing this ride will be a gas to drive. :jeep2:
 

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Inquired about measurement on a 2012-2017 front shaft and response was 34.5" compressed to 37.25" extended. Not even close to my 39.5, which is the bottom measurement. Top is 40.25". Just to let everyone know who will be doing this swap who may not already know, you'll need to add about $900-$1000 minimum for new shafts. No complaints here as I knew this swap would not be cheap. From what i'm hearing this ride will be a gas to drive. :jeep2:
I dunno what to tell you, I have the shaft installed and if I unhook the axle end I can pull it bare minimum another 3" forward past the flange.
 

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I believe you. Just got my shafts back from local driveshaft co. and measured front shaft. 33.75" compressed and 40.25" extended as far as boot would allow. I'll try asking another seller for measurements. Thanks!
 

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I believe you. Just got my shafts back from local driveshaft co. and measured front shaft. 33.75" compressed and 40.25" extended as far as boot would allow. I'll try asking another seller for measurements. Thanks!
I had just installed this shaft before I did the LS swap and with a 4" lift it was actually too long fully compressed to even go in. I had to stretch the axle forward to get it to fit even before the swap.
 

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Anybody have a part number for an ECM pin for the E38? I am finding different things on the web and I don't really want to pull the connector apart to look at the pin. I recently upgraded to the 52 dual core radiator and SS fan and the last step is to tie the fan wiring harness into the E38 Connector 1 Pin 58. Well, I am ready to do that, but I don't have the pin. :bawling:

I think some of the newer Motech modules have this wire already ran but I have an older revision.
 

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Discussion Starter #407
Anybody have a part number for an ECM pin for the E38? I am finding different things on the web and I don't really want to pull the connector apart to look at the pin. I recently upgraded to the 52 dual core radiator and SS fan and the last step is to tie the fan wiring harness into the E38 Connector 1 Pin 58. Well, I am ready to do that, but I don't have the pin. :bawling:

I think some of the newer Motech modules have this wire already ran but I have an older revision.
Give the office a call we'll send you some.
 

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Give the office a call we'll send you some.
Called and looks like I will have the part on Wednesday (I paid for expedited shipping). Motech, please know I provided some feedback to include this part in radiator upgrade sales. It is my understanding that some of the newer modules have this pinned already so its much easier to splice. You probably have a good idea on the customer's previous purchase if they will need to pin the ECM or not so you could choose to provide the part based on the customers needs. At any rate, it shouldn't take much to tape a pin to the harness when it gets sent out.
 

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Discussion Starter #409
We have a couple different accessory drives running on the Gen V engines now, both the truck and the Camaro style. Most of our Gen V swaps are running the GM accessories which woks well. The AC compressor on the Gen V engines is tucked in tight to the block and up high so we don't have the UCA interference we had with the Gen IV AC compressor.

We are running JK accessories on a couple Gen V engines for testing now.

In the meantime the Gen V AC lines can be difficult to fit cleanly so we decided to turn out some adapters. This is the first Gen V adapter, it allows you bolt onto a Gen V compressor then run any standard AC fitting you want: 90* short drop, straight, 45* even 180*. There is a lot of room around the gen V compressor so it's not squeezed in there like the Gen IV compressors, or having to run a reduced size compressor.

We will be offering other AC adapters depending on your need.
 

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Rubi-8,

I ended up adding a cheap EBay snorkel on my JK, which feeds cold air right to the air filter. I also made a quick metal box, shielding the hot radiator air from the intake. This dropped the air temp from 145 to 95 in 92 degree weather. However, only when moving......once we crawl, its back in the 130's.
I also added a DV8 heat reduction hood, but don't think it made as big of a difference as the snorkel.
 

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2017 JKUR Recon AT 3.73 Rear Diff 2" Lift Borla Exhaust 33" Ridge Grapplers on Fuel Wheels 2013 JKU
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The Gen V 5.3 is a powerful engine. Mitch is still waiting to get his Jeep so he installed a L83/6l80 into his Tahoe. The L83 has no problem spinning the tires through 3rd in this Tahoe with tall gearing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfQgIm_aLdg&feature=youtu.be
Pretty damn SWEET!!! I used to have a 1999 5.7 Vortec Tahoe 2-door (1994 GMC Yukon 5.7 2-door before that), would have loved that L83, and can only imagine the L86 in that platform!

What kind of MPG is he seeing?
 

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Thought I would inject a comment in regard to my L83/8L90 swap. The 8L90 trans fluid, Dexron HP, is impossible to find locally at a reasonable cost and the local retail parts houses do not stock. Dealerships want about $17 a quart and considering I don't know how much I will need due to trans being drained before shipment I opted to purchase at the most reasonable online vendor I could find after hours of research. One Amsoil online dealer claims their ATF is an acceptable substitute but could not verify through Amsoil so I passed. The 8L90 seems to be very particular about its fluid so I'm using Mobil 1 LV ATF HP to play it safe as the dealerships, through part #19353429, use it exclusively. TheLubricantStore simply had the best price so I went with them. Swap going good and will be working out a few instrument light issues with Motech after trans is filled and road tested.
 

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Status of DIY Gen V kits

Hi Robbi,

Do you have any updates to report on the DIY Gen V kits? When does this kit transition from BETA to fully awesome status?

Looking forward to using this product!

Thanks,
 

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It's been 2yrs since I last commented on this thread, but it's now finally possible for me to start gathering the parts for a V8 swap... My rig is a 2012 JK 2door with 4.88 gears turning 37x14.00 Iroks (have cryo treated gears and chromoly shafts with 35spline in the rear) . I live in Florida but have family that live in PA about an hour from Rouse Creek. So I will be s staying on the east coast mostly. But my jeep rarely sees interstate driving. I'm not wanting to regear or change tire size any time soon (if I do it will be with bigger axles).

I have a buddy that's been a GM tech for 20yrs that has a 2 post lift at his house that we will be using. I'm still not sure what engine or trans would be the best for me and the best bang for my buck.... Is the L83 and 8spd the way to go? Or 6.0 with 6L80 still better for me?
 

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I completed an L83 swap this summer on a 2013 4dr also on 4.88 and 37s. On the highway at 70mph the motor is running 2100 rmps. When I got my L83 it had an 8L90 on it. When I called
Motech about a kit I talked to Mitch and he strongly recommended that I either get a 6L80 or
change my gearing to 4.11. I went with the 6L80 as it was the less costly way to go.
 

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Hi guys, I have a swap jk ls and here's a block. it is impossible to establish normal operation of the unit with the bus. Tell me in which direction to move
 

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I know as much as anyone who put a (mostly) ready for market bolt in Motech swap in a jk.
Who supplied your parts? Who programmed your comps, what year, blah blah blah.
Your question is like saying," I bought a new rifle. Why am I not eating steak?"
 
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