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I did this late last year but never got around to doing the writeup so here it is. I was in the market for on board air and once I saw Powertank's products I was sold. Especially with the Monster Valves as how much faster they fill compared to traditional on board air setups. I was hesitant about installing them myself because a little slip could be a $300 little oops but when I asked around no one in the area had installed them, and were just as hesitant. I had already done some Googling and found a few write ups from people saying how easy they were to install. I went ahead and said F' it figured if something happened it would be on my shoulder as I figured a shop would have issues ponying up if they screwed up. So I have 17X9.5 Allied Monster beadlocks with 3.5 backspacing. These wheels have plenty area to install the Monster valves.

Here are the tools that were required for the install:

From top to bottom and left to right:
Cutting oil
Center punch
1/8", 3/16" & 7/16" Drill Bits
7/16" wrench
1/4" NPT Tap
Socket wrench
Monster Valve
Blue Loctite
Safety Glasses

There are a couple ways people have installed these (tire deflated, tire inflated, and tire uninstalled). I chose to keep my tire inflated and let the escaping air clean out the metal bits as I drilled the holes. Only thing is the wheel's center cap blocked the drills access to the inner wheel so as you will see, there are a couple lugnuts and the center cap removed.

The Monster Valves call to be installed on the opposite side as the stock valve stem to keep the tire semi balanced. I orientated the wheel so the valve stem would be on top so it would be easier for me to drill. First, I created a template for the center punch so each hole is drilled in the general area on each wheel. I made this template out of a cardboard box and just cut a v-notch. I used the bottom of the "v" to mark the wheel. Once I had the spot marked, I center-punched the spot so the drill bit would not walk around.

Next, I put on the safety glasses and starting with the 1/8" drill bit, keeping the drill vertical and centered, I drilled the wheel. I emphasize the safety glasses because once the wheel is punctured, metal flakes are shot out. After the initial hole is drilled, I stepped up to the 3/16" & 7/16" drill bits. Surprisingly, there is enough air in the tire during this entire process so I assume hardly any metal fell through into the wheel. Also, I jacked the wheel up so it would be steady and wouldn't go down as I drilled.

Once I had the 7/16" hole drilled, I tapped it using the 1/4" NPT tap. I placed a mark atop the tap so I could keep track of turns as I tapped the wheel.

Getting the tap centered is key. I dipped the tap into the cutting oil and then using the 7/16" wrench I tapped the wheel. Doing about 1.5 - 2 forward turns to .75 reverse turns, I went down until I could get the Monster Valve to screw almost completely on. Since the tap is tapered, you don't want to go too much because if you do, the threads will be too large and the Monster Valve won't seal. Once the Monster Valve was close to bottoming out, I pulled it back out, placed some blue Loctite on the threads and then tightened them down for good.

Overall these were easy to install, other than the inital drilling. After having a couple of trips with these, I must say that they are a great investment. Not only for how fast they air up, but also how fast and easy they air down.
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