[fr33land]

I just got done reading the skid plate thread and was wondering if its possible to replace the fuel cell and create a new skid plate for it? Has anyone looked into it? I fabbed up a 3/16" plate to skin the existing fuel skid but I still feel that I need more break over angle.

I feel that this is the only design flaw that is glaring and even would be willing to go to a 15 gallon tank or even try to put it in the back behind the seat. If anyone has idea's or suggestions on how to deal with the fuel pump or any thoughts...
Please help me brainstorm.
Oh... I have the CAD drawing for this plate if anyone is interested. I bought the steel and had it jetted out for just around $150. Mine is completely hammered and still is holding up. I have high centered on it several times and it easily holds up the weight of the JK.

 

[fr33land]

We'll disagree on the "safety" stuff as there's too many variables to keep in play.

But, my point on location is that your suspension setup will have to change. When setting up a suspension the CoG is calculated so that the instant center, anti-squat and all the other junk can be dialed in. You are significantly changing that by moving all of that weight, therefore you will need to re-tune your suspension to accomodate the change.

And I really think I am simplifying it quite a bit through my ignorance.

Good discussion...
Not to butt in... but how is the COG changed all that much by shifting weight? By the fuel consumption the COG changes as the weight of the gas is lessened, coupled with the fact that you maybe carrying tons of gear and spare part in the back behind the seat (my spare **** and tools = 30lbs). Take along some camping equipment... This wouldn't require suspension mods.
My JK squats a little to the side when I fill up already.
More info please...?
I have been on the trail with several loaded JK's and they only squat a little.
Wouldn't the Airlift 1000 air springs remidy this squating problem?

 

[fr33land]

I was looking at the pic of the frame. If you had some mad plastic molding skills, I would think you could fab a tank that raised up the stock bottom up a couple of inches and fit up inbetween the crossmembers. It's taking advantage of the space between the crossmembers that's key. To make this work might require a body lift.

I dont think a body lift will work. look at the crossmembers above the tank. Raising the body will not raise the cross members and the tank is already as high as it will go.