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Sorry for the crappy cell phone pix, my regular camera broke. I kept ripping off my fender liner and it was too beat up to put back on. So I decided to install Metalcloak fender liners to give my JK a clean look. They took about 1 hour to install after I sprayed it with paint. The install is easy.

You do NOT need Metalcloak fenders with these liners. I'm pretty sure they will work with any fender.

Overall I'm happy with this setup. I have more clearance to stuff my tire without ripping out the liner. My tire still touches the liner a bit on rare occasians but it's much better then when it was stock. When it was stock I would hit my airbox.

A pic of the JK...





Close up...



The kit comes with 3 pieces on each side. Labeled below is each piece.

It attached with 6 bolts. 3 are stock bolts and 3 have to be drilled.



For the first 2 pieces you must drill 2 holes and use one stock bolt. The 2 holes you drill are through 2 pieces of sheetmetal and you use a bolt about 3" long (if I remember correctly). Metalcloak does not prove the bolts. With stock fenders, you will not have a issue. With aftermarket fenders I don't believe there will be a clearance issue as well.




For the third piece you use 2 stock bolts and drill one hole in the empty spot behind the front blinker. You will not have any issues with any setup you have. I have TeraFlex Speedbumps so I had to do a slight modification (cut about 1" off the liner) to fit the speedbumps. You will not have this issue with any other bumpstops.

 

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WOW!!! Very well done! We may just have to reference this thread on the product page.

BTW, awesome looking Jeep!

:smokin:
 

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Sorry for bumping an older thread but I just wanted to say your pictures have inspired me to go the metalcloak route. I chopped my inner fenders today and it looks ok but the metalcloak looks so finished.
 

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I installed these when I did my PS fenders and accidentally cut too much out of the stock inner liners. For the rear section (first picture attached) I couldn't get the two holes on the backside to work with PS's fenders. Instead, I took out the battery box and fuse box so I could sammich the MK inner fender between the battery box and the bracket (instead of bolting it under the bracket). This made the inner fender more stable and didn't require me to use the two rear bolts.

For the front bolt that goes through the turn signal housing area, I found it very difficult to get a wrench on the backside until I realized I could easily remove the turn signal (with housing) and have easy access to the backside.
 

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Thanks for the tips, I ordered these today along with the 3/4" marker lights from metalcloak and the rear tail light extension bracket from teraflex. Once everything arrives my jeep will be legal again!

I just had the ACE front/rear bumpers, fender flares, and rock sliders installed so lost some things =p
 

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Just got the tracking number for Metal Cloak aluminum fender liners
 

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Wait, why is it that Metal Cloak doesn't provide the bolts that you need to install? How does that make sense. A company sells a product that needs to go on a Jeep, but doesnt give you the hardware to put it on... Sounds like a few companies in the past who got the shaft from many.
 

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Wait, why is it that Metal Cloak doesn't provide the bolts that you need to install? How does that make sense. A company sells a product that needs to go on a Jeep, but doesnt give you the hardware to put it on... Sounds like a few companies in the past who got the shaft from many.
They are designed for the MC fenders but may be modified for other applications.

From their site:
Designed to work specifically with the MetalCloak JK Overline Tube Fenders the inner fenders can be used with out our fenders, but it will take additional drilling and modification to install. If you are not sure the fitment, talk to a MetalCloak representative before purchasing.
Easy to install Overline Inner Fender Well kit includes:
3 Part Driver & Passenger Fenders
18-8 SS bolts
Note: This product is designed for Metalcloak fenders only. You may buy it and try to modify it for other types of fenders, but there is no guarantee that it will work. Here is a thread that details installation on a non-MC fender.
http://www.metalcloak.com/JK-Aluminum-Inner-Fender-Wells-p/3290.htm

Sounds like you need to do a little more research
 

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They are designed for the MC fenders but may be modified for other applications.

From their site:
Designed to work specifically with the MetalCloak JK Overline Tube Fenders the inner fenders can be used with out our fenders, but it will take additional drilling and modification to install. If you are not sure the fitment, talk to a MetalCloak representative before purchasing.
Easy to install Overline Inner Fender Well kit includes:
3 Part Driver & Passenger Fenders
18-8 SS bolts
Note: This product is designed for Metalcloak fenders only. You may buy it and try to modify it for other types of fenders, but there is no guarantee that it will work. Here is a thread that details installation on a non-MC fender.
http://www.metalcloak.com/JK-Aluminum-Inner-Fender-Wells-p/3290.htm

Sounds like you need to do a little more research
Well if Metal Cloaks website wasnt confusing to navigate, I wouldnt have missed that.
 

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Not sure if it's a recent change but all hardware was included with my fender liners.
 

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EDIT:

Since I found the above instructions kinda hard to understand at first I took my own crack at making some.

Installing Metal Cloak fender liners without Metal Cloak flares:

Extra things you will need that are not provided by MetalCloak or mentioned in their instructions:

4 x 3/8” x 4” long Button head socket cap screws
4 x nuts to go with above screws
4 x washers to go with above screws (thin ones so you have as little difficulty fitting flares over them otherwise trimming may be required)





The screws in that size are a pain to find because of the length. That’s why in the pictures you see here they aren’t the same. Lowes didn’t have them, ACE Hardware didn’t have them, and the store that MIGHT have them isn’t open on Sundays so I’ll have to check tomorrow.



Step 1: Place Part A in its spot using the 2 factory screws so you can figure out where to drill the hole for the MetalCloak provided 3/8” x 1” screw and mark that location. Then remove Part A.

Step 2: Using a 25/64” Drill bit (I recommend Cobalt as softer metal drill bits will break, happened to me; also 3/8” works too but it will be a tight fit for the bolt) drill a hole where you marked. Also, depending on your drill size, turning your wheel towards the side you are working on will give you a little more room to get a straight shot at it.

Step 3: Reinstall Part A, and you can use a 9/16” wrench to tighten the bolt in the back. (It’s a pain in the ass but removing the grill should make it easier. I didn’t and just used a 4” long wrench and it worked fine once I was able to get it around the nut.)

Step 4: Fit Part C into place. Making sure it is inside that small cavity entirely. Now, how I figured out where to drill on the outside of the body panel was to take the one from the opposite side and place it right up against it lining up the little nick marks that mark where the tubes for the bolt are. Then I used the drill through those holes to mark the spot and then put the opposite sides Part C away and took out the driver side Part C and began drilling. To get the back wall, I inserted Part C again and lined up the holes and just drilled with the drill bit passing through the tubes in Part C. Install the bottom bolt and nut first then just the top bolt.





Step 5: Take Part B and screw its upper MetalCloak provided nut and washer into place and fit its other opening over the upper bolt used to hold Part C into place. Then install the nut and tighten both the upper and rear nuts.



Repeat for the opposite side.
 
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