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OK, I have been reading, reading and reading about lockers. Some of you might know my 2010 sporty JK. I am really thinking of biting the bullet and install some lockers F/R. My question is what to buy?? I hate the price of ARB. It is so much. And for something I hard rock crawl 4 or 5 times a year. Must of the time she is a weekend driver. I am still running a D30 and will be staying with that. I will sleeve and gusset it. Axle shaft will have to wait till the stocks break. I would like to lunchbox or some things less then a 1000.00 a piece? I have read so much about lockers I can threw up. I want real world people who have showed the nay sayers it can be done and work. I have done a lot with a sport JK that was said it can’t be done. I am not wanting to buy something and it cost me more later. I am just looking for the truth and not someone to say buy this because I have heard it will break. Please help me get to the bottom of my madness!! Thanks guys!!
 

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Put a lunchbox up front and wheel it like that for a while. Throw a selectable in the rear when you can scratch up the coin. Unless you run 4WD on the road in ice/snow... then selectable is the way to go all the way around.

The quick difference you will notice in the front grabbing vs spinning will sell you on lockers.

There is a reason that ARB is so popular.... hard to stop a locked rig. You can still do most everything with the limited slip, just learn to "feel" when to give it some gas and when to back off.
 

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The quick difference you will notice in the front grabbing vs spinning will sell you on lockers.

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This! I wheel with a bud that just put an Aussie in the front of his sport. Made a huge difference! A hell of an upgrade.
 

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Put a lunchbox up front and wheel it like that for a while. Throw a selectable in the rear when you can scratch up the coin. Unless you run 4WD on the road in ice/snow... then selectable is the way to go all the way around.

The quick difference you will notice in the front grabbing vs spinning will sell you on lockers.

There is a reason that ARB is so popular.... hard to stop a locked rig. You can still do most everything with the limited slip, just learn to "feel" when to give it some gas and when to back off.
I was going to say the same thing. $250 front aussie and try it for a while then upgrade the rear to a 35 spline axle and the arb selectable when you can.
 

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Detroits or Grizzlys front/rear. Have Detroit in the rear and Grizzly in the front. FLAWLESS and don't have to worry about mechanical/electrical/pneumatic engagement. Always locked, done.
 

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OK, so I have this straight in my mind, an aussie, you are only locked when it 4WD correct? And what would the advantage be of having a selectable in the rear and a lunchbox in the front? I am basically in the same dilemma as the OP. Want a locker, but dont want to have to pay a 1000 just for one diff as with an ARB.
 

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You are correct in that with an aussie your front will only be locked when you are in 4wd. With a selectable in your rear axle you would not be locked when you are driving on dry pavement. You still need some limited slip in the rear when going around turns.
 

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OK, so I have this straight in my mind, an aussie, you are only locked when it 4WD correct? And what would the advantage be of having a selectable in the rear and a lunchbox in the front?
the limited slip in the rear allows for the wheels to spin at different speeds while you turn. It will turn more like a tank if locked in the back. You can feel it when you turn and are locked - not a deal breaker. You usually lock up when you are pointed at an obstacle and negotiating it, once over/through you unlock and off you go. The difference is really amazing.... hard to explain but nosing up to an obstacle, pushing the button and a little gas to get on/over it nice and controlled is sweet. You can still get it done without, just a little more wheel spin which can result in bad ju-ju when it does catch.

And yes - 4wd = locked with an aussie
 

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I was going to say the same thing. $250 front aussie and try it for a while then upgrade the rear to a 35 spline axle and the arb selectable when you can.

X's 2. This is what I did and it was worth it. 35 splines and Arb rear and Aussie front till I finish gathering parts for my 44.
Crazy difference on where my rig could go!! I do a lot of stuff in 2wd locked in rear that gave me problems in 4wd before.
 

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This! I wheel with a bud that just put an Aussie in the front of his sport. Made a huge difference! A hell of an upgrade.
And I installed said buds locker! Aussie up front is a no brainer. Get a zytanium cross pin at the same time. Cheap insurance. I would strongly consider a Detroit lsd for the rear. I hear good things about them and cheaper than any selectable locker will be.
 

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What is a cheaper, selectable alternative to the ARB? And why is it that the cost of an ARB is justified? 1000 bucks no matter how you look at it is kinda absurd.

Also, with an aussie, as you are locked in 4wd all time, wouldn't it be a disadvantage considering that you are almost completely unable to turn? Or am I wrong on that...
 

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an ox locker uses a cable instead of air to activate and is a couple of hundred less. Eaton makes a e locker similar to the factory rubi locker but is reported to be a weaker design then the arb. Arb is considered the best locker you can buy and the cost reflects it.
 

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an ox locker uses a cable instead of air to activate and is a couple of hundred less. Eaton makes a e locker similar to the factory rubi locker but is reported to be a weaker design then the arb. Arb is considered the best locker you can buy and the cost reflects it.
As I also stated, how is it steering on non-obstacle type terrain with an aussie up front while in 4wdlo? Or does difficulty steering only pertain when on rocks/tight turns, etc...
 

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When driving in 4wd your front is locked and the steering will be tough. It is not as noticeable when you are in loose material or slick conditions but if you should run up on dry pavement you will have a difficult time turning.
 

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I have an Aussie up front! Best mod on the trail for the money on a Sport/X. Look at my sig build n trail pics all with just the Aussie. Wheeled it 2 years this way.
Now I have a Detroit in the rear. Oh it makes a difference! Both locked for under a $ 1000 if you DiY. The Aussie is very easy to do. The Detroit is a little more involved. Many have this done in a shop with a gear change since they pull it all out anyway.

Wheel the Aussie then when you can go with the rear! You will pick good lines by the time you get the rear done.



 

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I went a little different way, ARB up front 35 spline RCVs selectable for steering. and a factory e locker from a rubi for the rear.

as for cost effective the Aussie locker works great up front. There are lots of options I'd say set your budget and go from there.
 

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IMO it doesnt matter what locker you have up front , the steering is just going to bind. The u-joints can only turn and work only so far before they just simply bind up.

I ran locked for a while before I upgraded to RCV. It's not that bad locked with u-joints but I definitely noticed the difference in turning on the tighter trails. A few times I even had to stop and back then reposition to make the tighter turn. Granted I run ARB front and rear so I turn them on ONLY when I need to.

Once I installed RCV axles up front, it was night and day difference in the turns. I no longer had to back up on the tight turns. Even cv axles have their limits but for the most part, the steering has been awesome while fully locked.
 

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so if you are on tight trails would the aussie kind of be working against you? or do you just go back to 2wd?
You won't even know it's there until you need it, then it just works.
 
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