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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is the schematic I worked off of when I wired my rear locker. I don't have the front axle yet, but it's ready to plug in. The junction box is an aux fuse block I picked up that has six positions. I mounted it behind the glovebox. The indicator lamp wiring can be omitted if desired, but it worked out well with my switches. Included in this are the wire colors you'll have if you use the factory harness.
 

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Great, just the schematic I've been looking for!:smokin:

I have a question about it, though: If I use the switches I've ordered from www.4x4mods.com - can I just skip the wiring for the indicator? As the switches are lighted, they light up when activated...


(Actually, it kind of makes me mad when they sell Rubi axles, new harnesses and switch panel and then you can't get the full OE Rubicon functionality on a Sahara anyway. I thought it just had to be computer-flashed or something, but no-no...)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have a question about it, though: If I use the switches I've ordered from www.4x4mods.com - can I just skip the wiring for the indicator? As the switches are lighted, they light up when activated...
Yes, you can skip the wiring for the indicators if you want. I wired this way because I wanted to know without question if the locker had actually unlocked or not. Just because you kill the power does not mean the locker is unlocked. Sometimes is takes a few feet, sometimes a couple hundred feet, of rolling before it disengages.

As far as using the switches from 4x4mods, let us know how well they hold up. I've read many negative things about them and the customer service. I went with Carling switches, found here. Jim is great to deal with and his prices are excellent. See this thread for more info on the Carlings.


(Actually, it kind of makes me mad when they sell Rubi axles, new harnesses and switch panel and then you can't get the full OE Rubicon functionality on a Sahara anyway. I thought it just had to be computer-flashed or something, but no-no...)
This way is more functional than stock. You will have independant control of front and rear, regardless of whether you are in 2HI, 4HI, or 4LO. Now you can get stuck with more control:D
 

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Tried again today, the Carling site. Got this message:
Forbidden
You don't have permission to access / on this server.

Additionally, a 404 Not Found error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Apache/1.3.39 Server at www.otrattw.com Port 80
Anyone know another address, or what could be wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Got the site working now... John - which switches did you use? Do you know if they are the same kind as the original ARB switches (as I have two of them laying around)?
I bought the V1D1G66B-AYCN5-17U - SPST, OFF/ON Switch, it is the opposite of the ARB switched according to the OTRATTW web site.
 

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The V1DAJ66B-00000-000 is the same switch that ARB uses.

The V1D1G66B has the opposite lighting configuration of the above switch. This switch has been replaced with the V1DAF66B switch. Same lighting, same price, just has separate grounds for the lights built into the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The V1DAJ66B-00000-000 is the same switch that ARB uses.

The V1D1G66B has the opposite lighting configuration of the above switch. This switch has been replaced with the V1DAF66B switch. Same lighting, same price, just has separate grounds for the lights built into the switch.
What he said:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK, here's a mod to the above schematic using the ARB style switches.



With this switch, the upper lamp shows the locker is powered, while the lower lamp shows the locker status.
 

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Thanks John, much appreciated!

So, if I anyhow decide to go with the separate LED-light for the indicators, I just add the db/yl indicator cable to + on the LED, and 12v power to the other one (yl/lb or yl/tn) to the indicator, right?

I think I'd like that setup anyway, since I want the lower lamp connected to ignition power, to have it lid always...:)
 

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Thanks John, much appreciated!

So, if I anyhow decide to go with the separate LED-light for the indicators, I just add the db/yl indicator cable to + on the LED, and 12v power to the other one (yl/lb or yl/tn) to the indicator, right?

I think I'd like that setup anyway, since I want the lower lamp connected to ignition power, to have it lid always...:)
Wiring always makes my head hurt, but if I read your post right you've already figured it doesn't matter which wire is running where (+ or -). The locker sensor just closes when the locker engages to complete the circuit. I picked up a blinking LED http://purplecranium.com/i-63429-mini-led-indicator-light-blinking-green.html and wired it battery-> fuse(5a)-> sensor-> a second wire; sensor-> (+)light and a third wire wire; (-)light-> ground. I didn't see a fuse in your description. A fuse on every circuit is something I always think is a good idea.
 

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That blinking LED was kinda cool!

I have all power supply inside the cab connected to a fused junction box, so for me that'll be ok!
Umm yeah, right now I have a real rat's nest around my battery right now. I have a couple of fuse boxes on order to get all that cleaned up. Very smart of you to get that set up first. I'm not looking forward to playing catch up on that.
 

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Hello
Has anyone done this with an Spod and Source. I bought the Carling switches from Jim and now I need to hook them up. Also any photographs.


Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks John, much appreciated!

So, if I anyhow decide to go with the separate LED-light for the indicators, I just add the db/yl indicator cable to + on the LED, and 12v power to the other one (yl/lb or yl/tn) to the indicator, right?

I think I'd like that setup anyway, since I want the lower lamp connected to ignition power, to have it lid always...:)
Yep, that should do it.
 
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