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Finally got decent enough weather to finish the job and confirm the below wiring diagram works. This shows how to wire up a locker bypass using an SPOD. Three switches are used in this example (x1 front locker, x1 rear locker, and x1 safety/master). You have to trigger the locker "master/safety" switch in order for the other two locker switches to work. You could wire it up using only two of the SPOD switches, but I wanted a safety to avoid unintentionally activating a locker.


Doing a locker bypass using standard switches (not an SPOD) is super easy and already well documented. However, I did a ton of searching and was not able to find a wiring diagram for doing it with an SPOD. The threads I found that talked about using an SPOD didn't go into any kind of detail, no wiring diagram was actually provided, and the thread eventually resulted in the person using standalone switches to bypass the lockers vice the SPOD.

What makes it a little challenging using an SPOD is that the SPOD switches positive (+), while the locker bypass is activated by triggering negative (-) power to the control wires going to the locker relays. I used a series of relays in order to change the polarity and create a scenario where I get (-) power by hitting the SPOD switch. The Master/Safety switch must be triggered since that relay is the one being used to provide (-) power to the other two locker relays.

I wired the Master/Safety up to SPOD switch #1, and the two locker switches are on the other end of the SPOD at switches #5 and #6, so the switches are also separated by distance as some additional safety.

Obligatory disclaimer:
- This will allow you bypass Jeep's safeties and trigger your lockers individually at any time, speed, gear, etc.
- Triggering lockers while at speed, especially front, can be dangerous and cause an accident.
- Perform this mod at your own risk.

When triggered, the activated locker light on the dash will flash at you same as what happens when you perform this same bypass mod using standard standalone switches.

I tapped into the wires at the TIPM instead of the locker relays next to the battery because it would have been a pain in the ass to get to the wires with my dual-battery setup. I have a lot going on under hood and not a lot of room (Genesis dual battery, SPOD, PSC reservoir, ARB Twin OBA, etc.). You can tap into the locker relays if you choose, and you can mount the new relays wherever you want.

I'll include some pics besides the wiring diagram, but they aren't super detailed since this isn't exactly a write-up.






 

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I don't understand why you did this. I just moved some of the wires in the sPOD switch panel. I now have my first switch activating a solenoid that powers / isolates the ARB. The power from that switch also flows in to the two other switches that activate the rockers. This way you can't power the rockers without first powering the ARB.
Is that what you were trying to achieve or did you need an extra level of protection?
BTW, you work looks super neat. I'm always impressed with good cabling! :)
 

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Finally got decent enough weather to finish the job and confirm the below wiring diagram works. This shows how to wire up a locker bypass using an SPOD. Three switches are used in this example (x1 front locker, x1 rear locker, and x1 safety/master). You have to trigger the locker "master/safety" switch in order for the other two locker switches to work. You could wire it up using only two of the SPOD switches, but I wanted a safety to avoid unintentionally activating a locker.


Doing a locker bypass using standard switches (not an SPOD) is super easy and already well documented. However, I did a ton of searching and was not able to find a wiring diagram for doing it with an SPOD. The threads I found that talked about using an SPOD didn't go into any kind of detail, no wiring diagram was actually provided, and the thread eventually resulted in the person using standalone switches to bypass the lockers vice the SPOD.

What makes it a little challenging using an SPOD is that the SPOD switches positive (+), while the locker bypass is activated by triggering negative (-) power to the control wires going to the locker relays. I used a series of relays in order to change the polarity and create a scenario where I get (-) power by hitting the SPOD switch. The Master/Safety switch must be triggered since that relay is the one being used to provide (-) power to the other two locker relays.

I wired the Master/Safety up to SPOD switch #1, and the two locker switches are on the other end of the SPOD at switches #5 and #6, so the switches are also separated by distance as some additional safety.

Obligatory disclaimer:
  • This will allow you bypass Jeep's safeties and trigger your lockers individually at any time, speed, gear, etc.
  • Triggering lockers while at speed, especially front, can be dangerous and cause an accident.
  • Perform this mod at your own risk.
When triggered, the activated locker light on the dash will flash at you same as what happens when you perform this same bypass mod using standard standalone switches.

I tapped into the wires at the TIPM instead of the locker relays next to the battery because it would have been a pain in the ass to get to the wires with my dual-battery setup. I have a lot going on under hood and not a lot of room (Genesis dual battery, SPOD, PSC reservoir, ARB Twin OBA, etc.). You can tap into the locker relays if you choose, and you can mount the new relays wherever you want.

I'll include some pics besides the wiring diagram, but they aren't super detailed since this isn't exactly a write-up.






Have you experimented tapping into the locker sense switch? There are two wires to this switch - one is sense and one is a ground from the MTIP. Since this ground is not a chassis ground then it appears that there is some logic function linked to this ground feed. If you are directly engaging the lockers with switches, will any damage happen if you apply a chassis ground to MTIP ground output C1 pin 28. I want to monitor the state of the locker sense output to drive a separate "locked" indicator LED. Thanks, Chris
 
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