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Discussion Starter #1
There are several ways of doing this, below is a pdf that covers four of them. It is pretty apparent how each variation works and using different switches etc shouldn't be difficult to figure out.

I personally prefer to use relays, but any 10 amp rated switch should work if you are not using relays.

If you use the ground method you are activating the factory relays, if you use the positive method you are bypassing the factory relays and switching the locker directly.

Make sure you use the correct size wire and fuses. Both factory relays have a single 20 amp fuse, so expect no more than 10 amps per circuit.

When using these bypasses a flashing locker light indicates the locker is locked and no light indicates unlocked. The dash locker lights flash as the locker sensors will signal that the locker is engaged, and the computer is not expecting to see that.

As far as I can tell no codes are thrown when bypassing the lockers this way.

http://www.trailduty.com/temp/lockers/lockers.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I forgot to mention that the factory relays are by the battery, and it is easiest to remove the battery to get to them.
 

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nice - thx!
if i do this using the Positive Switched method...will the sway bar disconnect work in 4 high?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
if i do this using the Positive Switched method...will the sway bar disconnect work in 4 high?
No, this doesn't do anything to the sway bar disco wiring. You'd need a separate switch for that.

There is a way to ground one wire on the t-case so it thinks it's in 4Lo, this would allow you to use the factory locker buttons and sway bar control in any t-case position. I'm not sure, but this may throw a code, and doesn't give you independent control of the front locker which is one of the things I wanted.
 

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Phil,
I like the options. The singlw ground switch seems the simplest method. Any reason you didn't go this route?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
One person experienced a blown fuse using the positive switched method, most likely from having both switches on at the same time. However, it is worth considering and would lead me to prefer the negative switched methods.
 

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Nice write up Phil!

quick noob question. im about to do the Simple Non Illuminated Switch override. Where do i find the Violet/Dark blue and Violet/Light green wires? am i suppose to take the dash apart and get the wires directly from the locker switches or pull couple of wires through the firewall from the locker relays found under the hood?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hey Phil, what are your thoughts on using an sPOD for bypassing the lockers?
Don't see any reason why not. If you use ground switched, you may have to rewire the spod relay so it gives a ground out, but otherwise should work fine.
 

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Confused!?!? . i suck w/ electronics. I followed the graph but the switches do not work at all for me... I drove around with the switches on but the lockers never flashed or engaged.

This is what I did...

1. I cut the purple wire near the large big box (fuse thingy).

2.The wire sticking out of the box I left alone.

3. The wire comming from the axle (or the direction of the axle I soldered to my wire.

4. I took a 20A toggle switch (the type I use to kill my esp/abs...) and hooked up my wire to the switch.

5. I connected a wire to the other metal thing on the switch and grounded that wire.

Nothing!!!


....As I'm writing this I think I figured out what I did wrong. In step 2-3 I should of left the wire comming from the axle alone, and used the wire comming from the black box. Is that right or did I do something else wrong???
 

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Discussion Starter #14
No need to cut the wire at the relay, you need to tap into it. Reconnect the wire coming out of the relay to the original wiring and your wire and it will work.
 

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will the negative way allow me to use the lockers at any speed, or will the comupter shut them off at 18mph? its nice to have wheel spin for snow wheeling.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
will the negative way allow me to use the lockers at any speed, or will the comupter shut them off at 18mph? its nice to have wheel spin for snow wheeling.
Yes, you completely bypass the computer and can use them at any speed (common sense allowing).
 

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Yes, you completely bypass the computer and can use them at any speed (common sense allowing).
Holy shit that was quick!! my lockers will not hold up to spining 100mph? next thing you know you will tell me my big tires will bend my axel.:smokin:
 

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I want to use the ground method. Tap into the violet / dark blue ( front relais ) and the violet / light green ( rear relais ) cables. For testing I connected the cables to minus at the battery. All I get are flashing locker controls, but no locking action.

My problem is that my locker relais cables show different colors ( photo ), so I took the cables from pin 5 ( front and rear )

The Austrian dealer web shows a drawing of the relais and a pin listing as follows:
( please consider that I made translations, so the U.S. dealerweb text will be slightly different )

Front locker
pin circuit text
1 | A104 18YL/RD | B (+) ( fused )
2 | A104 18YL/RD | B (+) ( fused )
3 | emty
4 | T520 18YL/OR | exit relais front locker switch
5 | G304 20VT/DB | controller front locker

Rear locker
pin circuit text
1 | A104 18YL/RD | B (+) ( fused )
2 | A104 18YL/RD | B (+) ( fused )
3 | emty
4 | T526 18YL/WT | exit relais rear locker switch
5 | G305 20VT/LG | controller rear locker

My dealer told me that pin 5 should be right, but no reaction.

 

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On a other forum I read that the right cables are not at the locker relais, they are at the connector C1.

Original text: To control the rear locker you simply need to ground pin 42 of C1 from the TIPM (violet/light green). To control the front locker you simply need to ground pin 41 of C1 from the TIPM (violet/dark blue).

As far as I understand the connectors are at the bottom of the fuse box. Does anybody have a photo or drawing that shows which connector is C1.
 
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