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Discussion Starter #1
Ive got a Sahara. I want to add a locker. However for the price of an ARB or OX locker I can get the factory Rubicon assy. So my questions is. I have a 44 rear already but I understand the Sahara has 27 spline axles. I want to strengthen mine. I also want to swap out the front D30 for a 44.

1) Does the Rubicon rear end or front end offer any more benifit other than the locker?
2) Same spline in both? 27?
3) What kind of locker is in the factory Rubicon assy? Is it as good as an aftermarket say ARB, Detroit or OX?
4) Can you rewire the front and rear lockers on the factory assy so you can turn them on/off indepedantly of each other?

Thanks for the help. Im trying to figure out which way I need to go. I want the D60's but dont want to shell out that much right now. Im running 35's but want 37's. Im also wanting to put the extra cash (not going with 60's) into tube fenders and a coilover system.
 

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Your axle is 30 spline. Rubicon is 32 spline. An after market locker is better than a factory. You could always go with an auto locker, like a Detroit. why do you want to swap the front???
 

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The Jk front Model 44 has bigger axles than the model 30 and bigger axles than the TJ front Model 44.
Why not up grade to the 44. I have heard you can buy a complete axle assemble hub to hub for $1600.00 new.
 

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I've run Detroit's for years. You cant beat them on the trail; off the trail they can put you in the ditch as fast as they can get you out. Being locked up on a road with black-ice sucks.

Before I bought my Rubicon I was considering getting the ECTED from Auburn. the Variable DC input for limited-slip seemed cool, 12vdc Locked up. If my stock lockers break I would probably consider using them as a replacement if the input voltage was the same.

Dana 44's are plenty for 37's with the little V-6. The only thing I've been wondering about is the wheel bearings blowing, and that will only happen at highway speeds. I became very proficient at changing Ford 9" wheel bearings on the side of the road. I've been told the new 44 is almost as strong as a stock Dana 60, but I wouldn't hold my breath on it.
 

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Ive got a Sahara. I want to add a locker. However for the price of an ARB or OX locker I can get the factory Rubicon assy. So my questions is. I have a 44 rear already but I understand the Sahara has 27 spline axles. I want to strengthen mine. I also want to swap out the front D30 for a 44.

1) Does the Rubicon rear end or front end offer any more benifit other than the locker?
2) Same spline in both? 27?
3) What kind of locker is in the factory Rubicon assy? Is it as good as an aftermarket say ARB, Detroit or OX?
4) Can you rewire the front and rear lockers on the factory assy so you can turn them on/off indepedantly of each other?

Thanks for the help. Im trying to figure out which way I need to go. I want the D60's but dont want to shell out that much right now. Im running 35's but want 37's. Im also wanting to put the extra cash (not going with 60's) into tube fenders and a coilover system.
I did a rubi swap in the rear, yes you can wire independently. All you need is 12v to the locker. On=locked, off=unlocked.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So it looks from what I can gather that its worth swapping out the front 30 for the Rubicon 44. Obviously the 44 is going to be stronger than the 30 and come with the factory locker. Am I wrong or is the current 30 front OK to leave in? Just seems the 44 is the way to go for the weaker front.

= Is it worth swapping out the rear 44 to the factory Rubicon model for the factory locker and 32 spline axles or would it be wise to leave the current 44 and 30 spline and go with an aftermarket locker? Im sure the extra splines are a help but with just 2 more is it worth the difference?

Are the factory lockers dependable?

And lastly I also understand the factory lockers can only be used in LOW. If they are wired without using the factory system can this be overridden so they can be used in 4 hi?

Thanks for everyones input!
 

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So it looks from what I can gather that its worth swapping out the front 30 for the Rubicon 44. Obviously the 44 is going to be stronger than the 30 and come with the factory locker. Am I wrong or is the current 30 front OK to leave in? Just seems the 44 is the way to go for the weaker front.

= Is it worth swapping out the rear 44 to the factory Rubicon model for the factory locker and 32 spline axles or would it be wise to leave the current 44 and 30 spline and go with an aftermarket locker? Im sure the extra splines are a help but with just 2 more is it worth the difference?

Are the factory lockers dependable?

And lastly I also understand the factory lockers can only be used in LOW. If they are wired without using the factory system can this be overridden so they can be used in 4 hi?

Thanks for everyones input!
rear....i would answer that it depends on what type of locker you are wanting to use. if you want something like a detroit, then i would say do not sway the entire axle - just get the locker and some chrome-moly shafts. if you are wanting to go with a selectable locker in the rear, i would say swap axles. but my opinion is that the factory lockers ARE completely dependable and you wouldn't be gaining much by going to an ARB.

front....if you want to run 35's and wheel hard, it would definitely behoove you to swap to the rubicon 44.

lockers....if you were to swap axles (front and/or rear) you can wire the lockers so that you can control them in any t-case position, independant of speed or whether or not the other axle is locked.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Awesome reply!!! Thats exactly what I wanted to know. I do want selectable lockers so that with the other information you provided me has led me to my choice! Thanks so much for taking the time to answer! and to everyone for that matter.
 

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Dana 30 and Dana 44 have the same tube thickness and same outers as.

Dana 30 and Dana 44 have the same brackets.

Dana 44 has a 8.50" ring gear - Dana 30 has a 7.20" ring gear

Stock Rubicon locker has had issues, but my buds haven't had any issues with theirs.

Stock shafts are prone to "wollow" out the ears and loose a u-joint.

If you put an ARB locker and 30 spline 4340 chromoly shafts, it would be a bit stronger than the factory 44 except for the ring gear, and I am not sure how big a deal that is for Florida wheeling. If you are going to run 37's, I would definitely get the 44.
 

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Awesome reply!!! Thats exactly what I wanted to know. I do want selectable lockers so that with the other information you provided me has led me to my choice! Thanks so much for taking the time to answer! and to everyone for that matter.
FWIW rooster, try the dealer for the axles. I scouted the net for several weeks to find out who had the low price, but found that low price does not make for TOTAL price. The dealer in my area was a bit higher on price, but with sales tax included it was cheaper than anyone else on the net because of the shipping charge. The dealer didn't charge me a penny for shipping, just local sales tax. And, if I have a problem, I can take care of it locally. Oh, and I had it in less than a week.
 

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and remember... if you just swap the front out you'll need to regear to make both axles the same ratio. the front from the rubi will be a 4.10, depending on what you have on the rear now, you may need to regear or not.. chances if you JK is a 2008 or newer you'll need to regear as they only came with 3.73 as an option.
 

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and remember... if you just swap the front out you'll need to regear to make both axles the same ratio. the front from the rubi will be a 4.10, depending on what you have on the rear now, you may need to regear or not.. chances if you JK is a 2008 or newer you'll need to regear as they only came with 3.73 as an option.
Excellent point. Mine is an 07, stock gearing is 4.10. No gear change required:bounce:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Theres a lot of good info in this thead! Im glad someone knows what going on.

So I guess Im going to go with the 44 front. On the rear Im still debating. Luckily my Jeep has 4:10's so putting a front in wont affect my gearing. Although gears are on my very short list too. For the price of a rear VS a locker I think just swapping out my rear for a Ruby rear is still the way to go. Atleast then everything is the same and Im not having to flip this switch for that locker and pull this cable for that one. Keep it simple.

Still no answer on the factory locker though? What brand is it or who makes it for them or what is it made to look like. Closest I can think of is the Ected locker?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
FWIW rooster, try the dealer for the axles. I scouted the net for several weeks to find out who had the low price, but found that low price does not make for TOTAL price. The dealer in my area was a bit higher on price, but with sales tax included it was cheaper than anyone else on the net because of the shipping charge. The dealer didn't charge me a penny for shipping, just local sales tax. And, if I have a problem, I can take care of it locally. Oh, and I had it in less than a week.
So do they still warranty it? Im just wondering if you buy it and there is a problem if they are willing to fix it. You have the 07 I see so you probably have the lifetime warranty like me. Just wondering how that affects it.
 

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I think the stock locker problem have been grossly overstated. If you drop in the Mopar D44, you pretty much must wire it in outside of the system. Everyone I've talked with that tried has had major problems trying to get it to work like stock. As stated earlier, all you need is a switch and some power to it, although a fuse would be a pretty good idea too. It's not too bad of an idea to hook to the sensor as well so you can tell it's really on. I used a blinking LED for an indicator. I think you're crazy if you want the Mopar system to tell you when you are allowed to turn it on anyhow.

Install is about 5-6 hours and if you want the dealer to work on it, it is Mopar. I'll be surprised if they agree to warranty it though.

As of right now if you want a front D44 with a selectable locker, you're stuck with stock. Both OX and ARB have promised one for the front, but??? They are both making them for the 30's as those are the same as earlier models. If you have limited slip in the rear a selectable locker in the front is truly a kick ass combination. Since I dropped in my D44, I've needed the locker 3 times. However, a winch will take you much farther than a locker.

I would think with 37's you would at least want the chrome-molys for shafts if you don't go with the D44. I'd put them in the 44 as well.
 

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So do they still warranty it? Im just wondering if you buy it and there is a problem if they are willing to fix it. You have the 07 I see so you probably have the lifetime warranty like me. Just wondering how that affects it.
I'm pretty sure the axle assy came with some sort of warranty, I didn't ask. Even so, if there is a problem within the axle warranty period I would think that they would fix it as long as it wasn't "abused", i.e. driven offroad:D.
All depends on how offroad friendly your dealer is. Mine's not too bad.

As far as being covered under the lifetime warranty of the Jeep, I would say probably not since it was not original equipment on my Jeep from the factory even though it's a Mopar part. Might be a different story if the dealer installed it, probably worth checking into.

I bought my Jeep before the lifetime warranty was available, so I just have the std. 3 yr/30k. Can't wait for it to end, then it's goodbye v-6, hello Hemi!!
 
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