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Discussion starter · #64 ·
Don't mean UV protection for the interior although that is a consideration as well. I meant is this thing going to turn into a foggy mess after a couple of months in the sunlight like really old headlights.
In the JeepForum thread, Optic Armor comments quite a bit. Give that thread a read as they have answered a lot of the typical questions.

By the way, I updated the OP with TOTL's hood.
 
Anyone install these? Wondering how the plastic does in terms of UV protection?
I've been running a poly-carbonate windshield since February. Not the slightest hint of UV decay so far. I'm pretty happy with it. I've definitely taken some stones that would have cracked the factory glass. I was so sick of driving around with cracked glass waiting for it to get "bad enough" to replace.

There are a few considerations/observations.

1. You cannot glue it in with butyl, it does not stick to the poly. You have to use RTV silicone, therefore, it does not bond to the windshield frame as tightly as a glass/butyl setup would. This can be a structural issue. If needed you can drill and screw it in. I've thought about it but haven't done it yet.

2. Related to safety, a standard glass windshield can be hacked through in an emergency (think rescue guy with an axe). That's not so easy with 1/4 poly.

3. It flexes ever-so-slightly. A passing semi will cause it to vibrate a tiny bit. I really only notice when I have my polarized shades on as it does weird things with reflections and such.

4. It sounds funny when it rains, much more high-pitched. I'm still not used to this. Not a big deal, just a bit weird.

5. You cannot glue on a rearview mirror button. Evidently, nothing sticks to the poly. You can, however, drill a hold and bolt something on.

6. It will not crack, but it will pit. I have several small pits from the larger stone impacts.
 
I'm surrprised now one is sharing to their over all Jeep weights.

I know this is older but maybe this will respark some interest.

I was at 5080 with the doors on. No top. No back seats. And about half my tools.

Cage and 1 tons on 37s. ( To broke for 40s after the swap )
Image


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I'm surrprised now one is sharing to their over all Jeep weights.

I know this is older but maybe this will respark some interest.

I was at 5080 with the doors on. No top. No back seats. And about half my tools.

Cage and 1 tons on 37s. ( To broke for 40s after the swap )
People have shared their weight:
http://www.jkowners.com/forum/modified-jk-tech-dept/38280-what-does-your-jk-rubi-ul-weigh.html
http://www.jkowners.com/forum/modified-jk-tech-dept/372441-your-curb-weight-after-modifications.html
http://www.jkowners.com/forum/modified-jk-tech-dept/334746-jeep-jku-weight-after-axle-tire-mods.html
http://www.jkowners.com/forum/modified-jk-tech-dept/66357-jku-weight.html

Are you saying that you were already on tons and weighed 5080? Because that seems quite low...
 
Thanks for the links. I'll have to check these out.

And yes. After axle swap my weight was 5080.

It's pretty bare bones in side.

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is it a safe assumption to say you have no spare, no carpet or rear seat ,winch/ hi-lift ,in the Jeep as-far as your definition of " bare bones" goes?

It took massive trimming and work and aluminum to get my four door w full size spare and all recovery tools to weigh under 5000lbs so I'm very aware of what is involved in "getting them down" per se ....
I'm trying to imagine , further, wtf I'd have to lose once I upgraded to 1ton axles to still come in at 5k lbs....



:jeep2:
 
is it a safe assumption to say you have no spare, no carpet or rear seat ,winch/ hi-lift ,in the Jeep as-far as your definition of " bare bones" goes?

It took massive trimming and work and aluminum to get my four door w full size spare and all recovery tools to weigh under 5000lbs so I'm very aware of what is involved in "getting them down" per se ....
I'm trying to imagine , further, wtf I'd have to lose once I upgraded to 1ton axles to still come in at 5k lbs....



:jeep2:
Looking back at the first thread I linked I came in at 5200 fully dressed (http://www.jkowners.com/forum/1869777-post17.html). I can see shedding 400 pounds at best if I took the top, spare, and bumpers off but I cant imagine tons being any less than another 1K in weight over the 44s so Id love to know where you shed an additional ~800 pounds.
 
Looking back at the first thread I linked I came in at 5200 fully dressed (http://www.jkowners.com/forum/1869777-post17.html). I can see shedding 400 pounds at best if I took the top, spare, and bumpers off but I cant imagine tons being any less than another 1K in weight over the 44s so Id love to know where you shed an additional ~800 pounds.
I think we are agreeing on this @ALASHA ?

We are if you are reiterating what I am tryin to figure out.

So, ok;im gonna think out loud a little here.
I have a full size 37" spare and air comp.
Then the 9k winch which is on lite side..
sure, I carry lots of self-recovery tools( dual shackle blocks, hi-lift& accessories,each type fluid,et.al) + pretty much any tool you could need as well as extra parts ...
I've probably taken mine (and this is with my scrawny, stock -albeit Artec'ed up- d30 /d44 combo for axle housings , not heavier ,1 ton housings, R&PS...pretty-much heavier everything that's hangin' with real axles)down an additional 100lb to 150 lbs lower than it was at time of this 2016 ,post-ride ,fully-loaded weigh-in. I mean it's silly to talkk about but if we get down to it, I also pulled all mats ,carpet,the oem jack i'd overlooked(derp) , got some better tools, cut or broke stuff off,heh..

So I weigh a little lower than this, but still I woulda figured you'd have at least 750 to a 1000 more pounds than me.
Image


- I realy aint tryin to dick wag or be some kinda weight snowflake but I am tryin to comprehend how OP can run far heavier axles and fixin's but still weigh within only 150 to 200lbs heavier than me WHEN I have very little left to remove!

I guess my spare maybe got filled with dark matter instead of air.




:jeep2:
 
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