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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I have a 07 4-door "X" 6 spd. I am looking to run 37's and I need to know whether the stock axles will handle these tires. I am planning on re-gearing with 5.13's. I guess I need to know what other "X" guys are running as far as gears, tires, and lifts. I know there will be a wide selection of lifts but the tires and gears should be the same. I am looking at the Clayton 4.5" lift as my first choice but I really would like to run 37's.

Thanks for any and all advice...:beer:

Todd
 

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I haven't personally seen a scenario but supposedly the front D30 axle in the X model will work but at a high risk of breaking. Like I said though, I haven't witnessed this, I have only heard that it's not recommended.

I would say go for it and if in the future you break an axle then it would be a good time to upgrade.
 

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The big question is how do you use your Jeep?

On a daily driver the front axle will be just fine. On a mild wheeler the front 30 will probably not be a concern. If you plan to wheel hard, plan to break axle components with the 37's.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The big question is how do you use your Jeep?

On a daily driver the front axle will be just fine. On a mild wheeler the front 30 will probably not be a concern. If you plan to wheel hard, plan to break axle components with the 37's.
It will be a DD but I will also be using it at a couple of ORP's in the area. I want it to be capable so I may just do the lift with new drive shafts and run 35's with the 5.13's. I can up-grade the axle(s) later on down the road when $$$ allows.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Your Thoughts...

Okay, I thought I would ask one of the local off-road shops about installing a lift and re-gearing. This is what I got back...

5.5 lift is what you need to clear 37's
RockKrawler 5.5 MidArm kit = our price $ 1700 Shocks around $ 200 Roughly $ 325 in driveshaft issues Install estimate $ 400 to 500

More affordable 4" Rough Country
$ 550 = 4" kit
Will clear 35's
Install $ 300

Any ratio - Frt gears $ 180
Rear gears $ 180
Frt. Inst.kit $ 190
Rear Inst.kit $ 180
Disassemble of both axles $ 200
Gear install / set up $ 200 each axle
Re-assemble $ 200


Now after further research and advice from memebers here, I have decided to go with 35's for now and later on get a D44 front axle in order to run the 37's. Now my question is, should I just go with the Rough Country lift and then re-sell it down the road when the time comes for the front axle to be swapped and then go with a bigger lift? Or, should I just pony up the extra $1500 now and be done with it? I have talked to a few people that have run the Rock Krawler kit and they like it. The Rough Country I have no idea about. Does the prices look fair and should I go with the Rock Krawler lift or the Rough Country? Thanks.

:beer:

Todd
 

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I would say build it right the first time. Their numbers seem really high and some of their recommendations are wrong. A 4" lift will clear 37's. If you want to run 35's you can get by with a 2-1/2" budget boost. If you want to do it in steps on the lift, this is what I recommend. A good spacer lift will only cost you around $200 plus labor unless you do it yourself which isn't that hard. You can easily turn around and sell it for half that when you're ready for the bigger lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I would say build it right the first time. Their numbers seem really high and some of their recommendations are wrong. A 4" lift will clear 37's. If you want to run 35's you can get by with a 2-1/2" budget boost. If you want to do it in steps on the lift, this is what I recommend. A good spacer lift will only cost you around $200 plus labor unless you do it yourself which isn't that hard. You can easily turn around and sell it for half that when you're ready for the bigger lift.
I thought their prices on the re-gear were a little salty but I wasn't sure. I am going to go with the Rough Country 4" and 2 pairs of their 3/4" coil spacers. I can get all of it shipped to my door for less then $700. I was planning on doing the lift myself and having a garage do the gear work. I figure I can do the lift over a weekend and then take it to get the gears done. H ow bad will the power loss be with the 6spd and 35's with 3.73's? I would only drive it that way for maybe a week or two at most before the gearing would get done.
 

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You may be able to clear 37's with 4" of lift but they will rub all over during flex. I'd say 5.5" or more is a good height to run with 37's unless you wanna do some of trimming in the front of the rear wheel wells.

Their price of $1330 for a complete front and rear gear job isn't bad really. I have only seen a better price once previously and it was when Teraflex Plus was running a special for 12 something for a complete front and rear gear job.

I would suggest the same as RotorHead said and build it right the first time. As you drive it over time you will become familiar with the suspensions mannerisms and you'll be more apt to tweek things until it's all in and working good. And if you do your own maintenance on the suspension it will be better over time to stay with one system and get to know it rather then swapping them after a couple of years and have to start all over again.

Also, I know it is recommended to swap out driveshafts at lifts of that height but you can get away with running your stock shafts in an unlimited. I am an example of that, I have been running my stock driveshafts for over 18,000 miles now and I have over 7" of suspension lift. They are still working fine and I have no signs of boot wear at either shaft. So at the very least, I would suggest leaving the stock ones in for now and save a few bucks that you can put towards the lift.

(*edit)
Concerning power with the 35's and 3.73 gearing, it will kinda suck at first but once you get used to it it won't be that bad... well... it will still suck but you'll be used to it. 6th gear will be more or less useless, you might be able to hold speed on the freeway as long as your not going uphill or facing a head wind.

Not sure what gears your looking for but if you do plan to upgrade later on to 37" tires, then I would recommend getting 5.13's. They will work great with the 35's and a manual tranny but you will be somewhere around 3100-3200 rpms at 75 mph on the freeway. I am running 37's and 5.13 gears and at 75 mph I'm right on 3000 rpms.
 

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Agreed about the 4" needing some trimming. I'm running a 4" Teraflex lift, but I really got about 5-1/2" out of it. I still had to trim a little off of the rear fender flares and I stubbied my stock rear bumper. I guess it more depends on how your bump stops are set.

The problem you will find going with a cheaper lift is that you have no adjustability available. This is another reason that if you have the capability to do it your self you should. After you install the lift, you will spend some time to get it dialed in so you will enjoy driving it and won't have clearance or drive line issues. You'll have to hunt around for the tire pressure that is right for you also. I've had my lift almost a year now, and I am very happy with the ride. Before I had everything dialed in, I was really second guessing my decision.

I second the drive shaft issues. You can get by with your factory drive shafts for a while, but you'll need to inspect them frequently and listen for signs of wear as you're driving. Mine lasted about 6 months on the front before I started hearing a ratcheting sound. I smashed my rear on a rock so that one doesn't count.
 

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X2 on pretty much what everyone else has said.
$1350 for a regear on a JK is a deal!
I'm getting $1800-$2000 quotes everytime I check.

If you want to run 35"s a good 3" kit and the right offset wheels or spacers would be fine.
personally, I've found polyperformance's suspension stuff to be great and the cust service rocks.
I'm running 3" PP springs all the way around on my rig.
 

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X2 on pretty much what everyone else has said.
$1350 for a regear on a JK is a deal!
I'm getting $1800-$2000 quotes everytime I check.
Install around here is around $700 for front and rear, gears are $450 or so for the pair, install kits $200/pair, overhaul kits $370/pair. If you go with install kits and re-use the bearings you should be looking at $1350, $1520 if you use overhaul kits.

$2k means they are charging you at least $1200 labor, assuming 6 hours for each axle, that's $100 per hour. I don't know who you are getting quotes off, but instead of 4x4 shops you may want to try dedicated axle/gear shops.
 

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I got quotes from Baertrax

"Gears and master kits are $850, plus tax and shipping. (The aftermarket JK gears are still new and rare to get through our vendors)
Labor is $450 each end for a total of 900. So total project would be around $1800 or so."

and 4WP

"I have three different prices for you, carry out on the gears is $833.48, parts and labor is $1704.35, and parts and labor with our exclusive parts and labor warranty is $2023.69. Don’t get me wrong, we have a great standard warranty, the parts are lifetime and the labor is 90 days, but with our 3/36 warranty it covers all parts and labor at any 4 wheel parts nation wide for 3 years or 36,000 miles, which ever comes first for an additional $295.00. The parts are about 2 weeks our from superior axle and gear and we are a week out in the shop if the install is the way you want to go"

both of those are on top of a 400 mile round trip drive to Dallas - with the return trip sucking bigtime driving slow and pulling over often to let the gears cool.
I figured 4WP would be high, but Baertrax wasn't far behind

I haven't found anyone local yet that does axles - the fun part of a small town.
 

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If you feel like a sharp learning curve and have some spare time, you could do it yourself. It isn't overly difficult, just need to be patient and get it right.
 

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You'd have thought there's got to be a gear/axle/R&P place out there somewhere. Someone must do work on the local trucks and stuff???
 

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Thats an area I've stayed away from so far- Axles and Transmissions.
If it wasn't my daily driver, I'd probably be tempted to take a lot of time and wade through it myself.
Probably someone around that does tractors or semi trucks.
I guess they could probably do a JK too
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You can order a brand new one with gears and locker installed for cheaper!!
Really? Where at? Any websites? Thanks for the info!:beer:

Todd
 

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Discussion Starter #18

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Really, any lift can be upgraded. It's just how much you wanna do at a time. I have been adding pieces to mine over the past year and will continue to do so as time goes on. As far as those lifts go that you listed, they are all good. But I like the Teraflex or the RockKrawler myself.

The thing that jumps out to me the most is the shocks. You'll need shocks with all of those kits except the Teraflex one which will add to the cost. But I don't think that puts it in as a front runner. The kit basically give you the "lift" only and the shocks without any supporting components. Although the little things that are included are nice such as the bumpstops, brakelines, small bracketry.

The rock krawkler kit has both front and rear adjustable track bars which is way cool IMO. Some of those supporting components that the Teraflex doesn't have, but then again no shocks.

Whatever kit you choose be sure to check deeper into whatever bracket may or may not be supplied for the rear track bar. I find myself saying this alot, but the brackets that drop down from the frame usually have interefence with the shock if left in the stock location. And if the bracket mounts to the axle, be sure it doesn't soley rely upon the factory welded bracket for attachment.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The rock krawkler kit has both front and rear adjustable track bars which is way cool IMO. Some of those supporting components that the Teraflex doesn't have, but then again no shocks.

Whatever kit you choose be sure to check deeper into whatever bracket may or may not be supplied for the rear track bar. I find myself saying this alot, but the brackets that drop down from the frame usually have interefence with the shock if left in the stock location. And if the bracket mounts to the axle, be sure it doesn't soley rely upon the factory welded bracket for attachment.
That is what I was thinking...I could start out with the Rock Krawler kit and add to it as time and money permit. When I was looking I was figuring on buying shocks anyways. I believe the one shop near me is a dealer for Rock Krawler and if I have any problems with it they can help. I would like to spend the money on parts and do as much myself as I can and then have a shop do the gear swap.
 
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