I like the Super Lift 4" so far.............
I installed the 4" Super Lift by myself over two weekends, working about 8 hours each Sunday. I did the rear one weekend and the front the next weekend, my 60's motor head mentality not allowing me to lift the front and leave it that way while waiting to do the rear. SL has you do the front first and replace the swaybar links with those from the rear. If you reverse the order remember that SL instructions are not going to remind you to remove the front swaybar links again. This over sight will become obvious when you attempt to drop the front axle. Additionally do not forget to disconnect the ESP sensor wires and the brake lines if you want to do this job without spring compressors. At first I thought no way am I getting that stock spring out. The trick is two floor jacks, one to support the axle and the other to raise (compress) the opposite side. This allowed me to remove the stock springs and install the new springs with no problem. I advise going with a new longer brake line kit, much cleaner and you won’t have to unbend what you bent to make the supplied adapters work. I also advise adjustable arms with any kit. Cams work, but are a compromise. SL only had the lowers at the time of my purchase. Adjustable lowers will allow caster and pinion adjustment in the front and pinion adjustment in the rear. You will typically lengthen the front to gain more caster, but not so much as to drop pinion angle, the front is a compromise between the two. The rear will typically be shortened to point the pinion at the t-case. I did have to chase the threads on the adjustable arms from SL to make them adjust smoothly and to actually get them to the directed lengths. They worked fine after that, but I thought they could have been welded and assembled with better quality control. Adjustable uppers will allow for the same adjustments – just adjust the opposite direction. Adjustable lowers with adjustable uppers may keep the axle more centered, not sure if that is critical. Any ideas on this subject? Steering was off as expected and was easily corrected by checking the wheels straight and adjusting the clamp. You can do this yourself. I did notice during the front install that the driveline contacted the trans pan and skid plate, this has been discussed on this and other forums. I also noticed the steep angle at the t-case, this bothered me more then the rubbing of the boot and d-line. A Rzeppa failure just waiting to happen. It may last a while, but it will eventually fail at that angle. I like to pick when to battle repairs. I will replace the front d-line this weekend at my home and not on the trail. Stock wheels, tires and gears for now, but plan on 35 with 5.13's. Lower is better with the high reving V6, the OD will actually function as an OD and it should pull like a mule without using a lot more gas.
I like the Super Lift 4", but it is my first lift on my first Jeep, not my first 4X4. The ride is firm, but not harsh. The articulation seems great.
ROCRAT