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Discussion Starter #1
I know this has been covered before...just got done reading this thread http://jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5705

Wondering what I should use for LED taillights so I can keep my factory housings. Plan to tint them so need something brighter, without getting those silly Euro housings.

Is there a plug and play bulb/kit for the rears without using a resistor?

Thanks in advance.
 

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I love how 68 people have read this thread and not 1 has replied ...
I replaced the taillight bulb in my Harley with an LED one. There has to be a replacement, take out the bulb and get the # - or someone post it up - and then search for a LED bulb that meets that light code.

Not certain that it would work but its a good start.
 

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Has anyone replaced the factory bulbs with led replacements? Do they work well... Which ones have you used... I've been looking to replace mine too. sorry for hijacking...:D
 

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Dont know about the newer vehicles, but I put some in my 05 truck and needed a resistor to get them to work properly.
The LED s will cause the electrical system to think there is a light out and the flasher will flash rapidly.
I tried a electronic flashe replacement but it didnt help. The resistors did.
Hope this helps.
 

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Dont know about the newer vehicles, but I put some in my 05 truck and needed a resistor to get them to work properly.
The LED s will cause the electrical system to think there is a light out and the flasher will flash rapidly.
I tried a electronic flashe replacement but it didnt help. The resistors did.
Hope this helps.
What type of LED did you use? For example, what was the layout of the LED's on the light? How many LED's were on the bulb? ETC...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
From what I've gathered the proper way to do this is to add a resistor to each LED you install (if you're doing front and rear turning signals / lights you'll need 4 resistors total) to eliminate the fast blinking and the "ghost" image in the lights once off.

However, I am a little weary because I'm basically putting this together from reading many threads, both on this forum and others.

I wish someone would just post a "hey, here's exactly everything you need to buy to get the job done right" reply, but maybe that's wishful thinking. Nothing's ever easy lol
 

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maybe we could see a write up for this in the near future?? If I get to it first I'll make sure I do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Dodge, I like your thinking...

I would volunteer to do a full writeup with pics if someone would tell me specifically what bulbs and resistors (and where to buy) I will need. I'm looking to replace EVERY light on my car possible (interior, license plate, turning signals, etc).

Someone tell me what I need to buy specifically and I'll do a complete writeup with plenty of pics. I think this mod is well past due...
 

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Please enlighten me.

LEDs are cool and they save power as long as you don't need a resistor to fix the fast blinking. But, putting a resistor in parallel to the LEDs just makes the circuit pull as much current as the light bulb would have. Sure you wont burn out an LED anywhere near as fast as a bulb and they are a few milliseconds faster to turn on and off, but is it really worth the money? You can buy a bunch of bulbs for the cost of an LED tail light. 90,000 miles and the factory bulbs are still going strong.

For things like rock lights, 1 watt LEDs are much better than 55 watt halogens because they use 55 times less power, give good flood patterns, and are tiny. But using a low power LED tail light only to burn ~50 watts of heat in a parallel resistor doesn't make much sense to me.

Please explain the appeal.

Bryan.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The appeal, Bryan, is that they look a hell of a lot better than the crappy stock bulbs. Once you have LEDs in your cars' you will never go back to regular bulbs. Plus they are considerably brighter making them more safe.

Now back to the topic at hand...has anyone else installed them that can elaborate a little more?

Please enlighten me.

LEDs are cool and they save power as long as you don't need a resistor to fix the fast blinking. But, putting a resistor in parallel to the LEDs just makes the circuit pull as much current as the light bulb would have. Sure you wont burn out an LED anywhere near as fast as a bulb and they are a few milliseconds faster to turn on and off, but is it really worth the money? You can buy a bunch of bulbs for the cost of an LED tail light. 90,000 miles and the factory bulbs are still going strong.

For things like rock lights, 1 watt LEDs are much better than 55 watt halogens because they use 55 times less power, give good flood patterns, and are tiny. But using a low power LED tail light only to burn ~50 watts of heat in a parallel resistor doesn't make much sense to me.

Please explain the appeal.

Bryan.
 

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The appeal, Bryan, is that they look a hell of a lot better than the crappy stock bulbs. Once you have LEDs in your cars' you will never go back to regular bulbs. Plus they are considerably brighter making them more safe.

Now back to the topic at hand...has anyone else installed them that can elaborate a little more?
Gotcha. Thanks
 

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I have LED taillights . . . and YES, I had to add a resistor on each side in order to get the flashers to correctly blink. I was told that a 15 watt resistor would work; but I found that the blinkers were still too fast . . . so I went up to a 20 watt resistor, and now they work like normal.




 

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Looks good 4X!

Is that the gatorhyde that comes from RROR? Looks like lineX.... I will have a set of those on my rig and cannot decide on color matching or bed lining. The Gatorhyde looks great on their website but I cannot find anywhere close to Houston that can touch it up or do some more (tub etc...)

:beer:
 

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Looks good 4X!

Is that the gatorhyde that comes from RROR? Looks like lineX.... I will have a set of those on my rig and cannot decide on color matching or bed lining. The Gatorhyde looks great on their website but I cannot find anywhere close to Houston that can touch it up or do some more (tub etc...)

:beer:
Thanks.

No, not GatorHyde--I received my RROR pieces bare metal. I then had all of my fenders (fronts = Poison Spyder; rears = RROR) and Crusher Corners (RROR) coated with Rhino Linings brand bed liner . . . it is a professionally sprayed-on product like LineX, but less gritty.
 
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