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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone done a knuckle over tierod? The space between the passenger drag link and tierod mount looks tight. Is the space less than on a WJ knuckle?
 

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I would have done it if I could, so far I havent figured out a way to do that. There is not enough room beteen the tie rod arm and draglink arm.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Have you looked into some of the factory Jeep tierod ends... JK,WJ, or others and reversing, flipping, or putting a bend in the tierod end itself to create enough clearance around the bottom of the draglink's tre nut?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Heims seem like an easy solution, I'm really against heims in steering applications though. Do you have any low clearance joints that could squeeze in there?
 

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Have you looked into some of the factory Jeep tierod ends... JK,WJ, or others and reversing, flipping, or putting a bend in the tierod end itself to create enough clearance around the bottom of the draglink's tre nut?
I know what you mean but haven't looked in to it too much. I dont think you can put enough forward bend in it to clear. If you could find an offset tie rod to drop the shank down it would clear but then you are loosing the height that you are trying to gain, by the time you drop it down enough to clear the draglink with off set tie rod ends you may as well keep it on the bottom with offset tie rod end to lift it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Will a straight tierod work with these axles or will it hit the diff cover at full turn?

What is the vertical distance between the top of the tierod arm and the bottom of the draglink arm?

...wish I already had the axle so I could really know how much room is there.

Another thought is to just cut the exposed section of tre bolt off. Do you think that will make enough of difference?

Does the Poly Performance TRE and Draglink use Chevy 3/4 ton tre's?
 

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Here is a pic of the situatation. There is only 1 1/2" between the two steering arms. A straight tie rod will hit the diff cover but only slightly, the tie rod will also hit the sway bar end links if straight. I'm sure you can do it if you use rod ends and get creative with bolts and nuts. We do us the Chevy 3/4 ton TRE's.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I've been really busy with school these past 2 weeks so I haven't had much time to think about getting the tierod up. About the only thing I can think of is to weld on an arm for the draglink that is higher; similar to what toys by troy does for the tj.
 

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about the rust in the pic

Hey Goat,

What year JK is in that pic with the tire rod? I bought an '08 JK and I have just about the same amount of rust in the exact same area (except it appears to be on all four ends of both axles). I just wondering if everyone has rust in the same exact place as me (and does anyone else think it's odd to have heavily rusted components on a brand new JK)?
 

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Hey Goat,

What year JK is in that pic with the tire rod? I bought an '08 JK and I have just about the same amount of rust in the exact same area (except it appears to be on all four ends of both axles). I just wondering if everyone has rust in the same exact place as me (and does anyone else think it's odd to have heavily rusted components on a brand new JK)?
That jeep is about 10 months old. We live near the ocean and people often take it to the dunes and dont rinse it off after. It is just surface rust since they do not paint those parts.
 

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it off after. It is just surface rust since they do not paint those parts.
X2 But I painted mine, I don't mind dents and scrapes, but I just don't like seeing rust, even surface rust.

I live right by the Gulf of Mexico and drive on the beach every day, everything down here rusts if you don't paint it.
 

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Well, since the general consensus seems to be that it's normal to have rust there, I'll stop panicking now...I'm definitely going to paint over it too...it's annoying the hell outta me! :)
 
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