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Jeepineer
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
JULY 2018 EDIT: I've fixed all the photos (I think), again. They're now hosted local to JKO so I hope this fixes the issues permenantly in the future.

Note: I've seen lot's of questions on "how" to do this, however I've not been able to find any threads detailing a rebuild. At this point, I've only dug into one steering box. I should be doing another this summer, and possibly dig into a China box and see what the feasibility is for a rebuild. As this was not my own steering box, I did not have the time to tinker with everything and measure bearing and seal dimensions. If I get to mine I will try and see if I can source the bearings and seals for less than the kit purchased.

This thread will detail how to fully disassemble and rebuild a 2007 to early 2009 Delphi (rusty) steering box. The rebuild was done using the kit available from West Texas Offroad (<-- Link). It is not on their site, but give them a call and they will hook you up. It runs about $45-$50.

The WTO Kit:


The kit (shown above) will come with 2 needle roller bearings for the sector shaft, all internal seals, new adjuster nut, input shaft seal, and sector shaft seal.

Note: Interestingly, the kit ordered did not have the correct upper sector shaft bearing. The OD was too large. It could either be the box itself (2008) or on error on their end, but something to keep in mind.

I can't say for certainty I've labeled all of these parts correctly. Therefore, for consistency I've labeled the major components below. These are the terms I will use to describe the primary components throughout the writeup.



Disassembly

First, ensure the steering gear is centered. The sector shaft cannot be removed unless it is centered in the housing. Using a wrench, turn the input shaft until you hit steering lock, then count the number of turns in the other direction until lock. return the input shaft 1/2 that many turns to center the gear.

Remove the 4 bolts that secure the sector gear cover to the housing. Do not remove the adjuster nut (as we did), as it will make reassembly more difficult. For now leave it tight.

Gently tap up on the sector shaft from the bottom to force the sector shaft and sector shaft cover up as one. It should slide from the housing once the cover seal is free. Set aside on the workbench.

Now, remove the 3 bolts that secure the Power Steering Block to the housing. Gently twist and pull the block from the housing. It should slide off, reveling the power steering control portion of the ball screw, as shown below.



With the power steering block removed, you will have access to the large snap ring holding the ball screw and gear piston in the housing. Remove the snap ring.



With the snap ring removed, the ball screw and gear piston can now be pulled from the housing. Gently pull on the ball screw taking care not to rotate it. It may take some force to pull the whole assembly out.

Be careful not to turn ball screw or back it out, or you will have to rebuild it. Like we did.
 

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Jeepineer
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1,495 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Rebuild and Assembly

For rebuild, I will start with the ball screw and gear piston assembly. If you were unfortunate enough to remove the ball screw from the gear piston (as we did) you have likely found how it works. The machined groove of the ball screw engages with 10-15 precision ground bearing balls. Some mechanical slop in the steering box could be due to wear of the balls. On a future rebuild, I will measure them to confirm size for replacement (mcmaster has tons of sizes and tolerances available).

To re-assemble the ball screw and gear piston, first remove the 2 bolts that fasten the transfer tube to the top of the gear piston (sorry, no photo). Remove the tube and separate it into its two sections. Insert the ball screw into the gear piston. Proceed by dropping balls into the holes in the top of the gear piston until the ball screw track has been filled. Place the remaining balls into half of the transfer tube. Place the other half of the tube over the balls, and quickly insert the tube into the gear piston. It may take a few tries. Once installed, re-install the two bolts the fasten down the tube.

Now with the ball screw and gear piston re-assembled, you can install the new seals. The assembly uses 5 square cut seal rings on the power steering portion of the ball screw, and one more on the gear piston with a backing o-seal.



On the gear piston, remove the original seal and o-ring and install the blue o-ring and pink square seal ring provided in the kit





For the balls screw, remove the 5 original seals. To ease installation of the new seals, we removed the snap ring and retaining rings as the top of the assembly. It may not be necessary, but it made it easier for us. Be careful as there are small parts.

Remove the snap ring to access the two torx screws. Remove the two torx screw, then using pliers remove the retaining ring, pins, and blocks.





To install the seals, we gently heat them with a heat gun and carefully stretched them over each seal gland, making sure not to twist or cut the seal. Take care not to over stretch the seals.

Once all 5 seals are in place, re-assemble the retaining ring, torx screws, and snap ring if removed. Take note not to over tighten the torx screws.

With the ball screw and gear piston set aside, begin to remove the original bearings as seals from the housing. First, remove the sector shaft seal wiper from the bottom of the housing. Under the wiper will be a snap ring and retaining washer.



Remove the snap ring and washer.

With the snap ring removed, using a long punch or driver, tap the lower sector shaft bearing and sector shaft seal out of the housing.

Flip the housing, and from the other end using a long punch or driver, tap the upper sector shaft bearing out of the housing.

With that, the steering box housing should be fully disassembled and ready for new seals and bearings. Take the time now to clean the entire housing with brake cleaner. Also, if planning to port and tap the steering box for hydro assist, now would be the time as it can be thoroughly cleaned after.

To rebuild the housing, using a bearing driver, drive the new upper sector shaft bearing in from the top of the housing.



Using a bearing driver, now drive the new lower sector shaft bearing in from the bottom of the housing.

Next install the new sector shaft seal. You will likely need to use a seal/bearing driver to seat it. Take note to install the spring side of the seal inboard of the housing. These are directional seals, and will leak under pressure if backwards. Yes. We messed this up. Below shows the seal in backwards:



Next install the washer and snap ring in the housing.

Finally, install the sector shaft wiper seal using a bearing/seal driver. Make sure the wiper is facing outboard of the housing.

Returning to the ball screw, lubricate all 5 seals with ATF and carefully slide the gear piston and ball screw back into the housing, making sure that the gear piston is square to the sector shaft cavity. You may need to turn the ball screw a bit to force the piton into the housing further, into a more central location so that it easily aligns with the sector shaft.

Re-install the large snap ring holding the ball screw into the housing.

To rebuild the power steering block, first, drive the input shaft bearing out of the housing with a large surface punch. This bearing is not replaced in the kit, so take extra care when removing it. Drive it away from the seal with the punch. You can see the disk-shaped rollers under the seal in the below photo:



With the bearing removed, drive the seal out of the housing the same direction.

Install the new seal first, ensuring that the wiper is out, and spring side (shown) is facing into the block.



Re-install the original input shaft bearing as shown, with the larger majority of the disk-rollers showing when viewed form the inside.

Side that goes against the seal:


Inside view:


Once the seal and bearing are installed, replace the OD seal on the power steering block with one of the black o-rings.

Replace the face seal on the power steering block with the provided small o-ring.



Lubricate the OD seal with some ATF, and gently re-install the power steering block to the housing. Install and tighten the 3 housing bolts.

Finally, remove the original OD seal from the sector shaft cover, and install the provided replacement seal.



Lubricate the OD seal and gently slide the sector shaft and sector shaft cover into the housing, making not to properly align the gears. Re-install and tighten the 4 cover bolts.

Remove the sector shaft adjustment nut without adjusting the bolt, and install the new nut. Verify that the gear backlash is set correctly by following the setup instructions listed in the FSM, discussed http:/here/www.jkowners.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1512173&postcount=11.

And you're done. Hope that helps someone out there. I will try to update once I get some more measurements of some of the different sup parts, and take a stab at a China box. Hopefully more to come.
 

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Jeepineer
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1,495 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Awesome, thanks Mike. I ordered my rebuild kit from WTO on Thursday and thus will be going down very soon. Thanks again bud.

No worries Pete, I've been meaning to put this together anyway.

If you feel like taking yours apart and measuring the balls in the ball screw that would be huge. I think those have the potential to wear out and cause slop that can't be adjusted out.

When we put this one together half were dark black from heat and wear and half looks brand new. We unfortunately didn't measure them as I didn't have my mics or calipers on hand, but did alternate them incase they were worn.

Just something to think about.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Premium Member
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Mines available Mike ... What you say ? :)
 

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Jeepineer
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Discussion Starter #11
Is it just me or can you no longer see the pictures that Mike posted with this ?
Cant see the pictures?
Shit, sorry guys, I'll try and figure out why that changed.

Will the older rebuildable boxes fit a newer JK? Like a 2014?
Yes, they're interchangable. The size, port fitting, all interfaces are all the same. The only thing that is different is 2 door to 4 door. The steering rates are different. The 4 door is a much "faster" box (takes less turns lock to lock).
 

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Do you think that's why some guys experience twitchy steering when they install hydro assist? I'm making the assumption their pumps flow and pressure matches the bore of the ram. maybe it's guys with 4 doors or 4 door boxes. Just curious
 

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Jeepineer
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Discussion Starter #13
Do you think that's why some guys experience twitchy steering when they install hydro assist? I'm making the assumption their pumps flow and pressure matches the bore of the ram. maybe it's guys with 4 doors or 4 door boxes. Just curious
If you put a 4 door box in a 2 door, maybe. The box rate shouldn't effect ram rate.

I'm not 100% positive, but I believe the twitchy feel from a miss-matched pump/ram is due to the ram trying to move faster than the fluid rate/box rate. I guess I hadn't thought much into it before.
 

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nice write up. I actually have a spare Delphi box sitting here I had planned to send to WTO for rebuild and tap.

maybe I will give it a shot myself.
 

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pics are not visible

Great write up ... thnks.

Your pics seam to be not accessible.

would it be possible to give aore precise shop name whre you bought your rebuilt kit. There seam to be a few shop carring the same name !

Thanks
 

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Jeepineer
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Discussion Starter #17
Great write up ... thnks.

Your pics seam to be not accessible.

would it be possible to give aore precise shop name whre you bought your rebuilt kit. There seam to be a few shop carring the same name !

Thanks
I'm learning that Amazon photo hosting blows. Looks like the use floating URL's.... I'll fix the pics, again.

As for parts. West Texas Offroad. Or you can search "Redneck Ram". Call the number on the website and ask for the JK rebuild kit. I'll link the website in the original post.
 

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I know this is old, but i can't find any other write up on the webz. I'll be rebuilding and tapping my box next week when ram comes in and it would be hella sweet if I could see the pictures. Anyway they can be fixed or someone can point me to another thread somewhere?
 

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Random Dude
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You guys suck... One of you fuckers oughta have some insights
Well, since you're being a douchebag about it, :flipoff:

:cwm13: . . . On second thought, here are the photos I've posted along with a tour of the steering box:

A planned upgrade, the priority of which the DW elevated, was hydro assist – the ultimate steering stabilizer!
Here are a few photos of my steering box apart so you can see where the magic gnomes live.
Box coming apart. Reference marks are always handy, and buy a silver Sharpie if you don’t have one.


The two small holes are the passages for hydraulic pressure to reach either side of the piston in the steering box.
The two areas you drill and tap are each fed by one of these passages. The “+” is fed by the lower of these 2 holes.


The “+” in this picture is at the end of the passageway fed by the upper hole in the previous photo.
The horizontal chamber below the "+" is where the piston on the end of the rack rides.


In the block on the left, there is a valve that directs hydraulic pressure to one of the two passages depending on which way you are turning the input shaft.
The input shaft is also the worm gear that moves the rack. Hydraulic pressure on the piston assists the worm gear to move the rack.


Here are the two ports that feed passages that reach the two sides of the piston.



The teeth on the rack (in linear motion) drive the teeth on the Pitman shaft (in rotary motion), and the splines on the Pitman shaft turn the Pitman arm.
I got lucky: my Pitman arm was not sloppy, my seals were in good shape, and I didn’t fook up anything while I modified and reassembled the box.


You guys and gals that did your hydro tapping without disassembly have more faith than I do in the ability to remove all the debris.
I deburred and cleaned inside after drilling and tapping, and went full clean-room paranoid (within reason) at reassembly.
The 2 capped AN nipples are where the hoses take off to feed my PSC ram.
The brass pipe plug is where I wanted to run one of the hoses (but I decided to not modify the coolant bottle, so I went "traditional").
EDIT: the above read "washer fluid bottle", which was incorrect (It was late. Shit was getting fuzzy).


OBA tank had to go because it lived where I needed to route some hydraulic hoses - bummer.


Initial hydraulic hose routing – this helped me get over the loss of the air tank pretty damned quick.
If my hose routing looks odd to you, it's because the hose from the pump is curving forward to the hydraulic winch.
Another hose runs from the winch and feeds the steering box.
Track bar adjuster sleeve only fits with the pinch bolts on top because of the raised track bar / hydro ram mount bracket.

01/16/15 EDIT: I looked up these links for a hydro. thread going on, so I might as well copy/paste here -
Links to Summit detail pages (easiest for me to find/paste quickly) of the hose and the 45, 90, and straight fittings:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FCG0615
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM1386
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM1389
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM1302
Those pages have the Aeroquip part numbers also.
Those^ are the part numbers of the bulk hose and fittings I used to make my high-pressure hoses.


Hoses all buttoned up and hopefully needing nothing for quite a while.
If you are going to spiral-wrap your hoses, it takes a lot less time and effort before installing the hoses.
I did it both ways, and it sucks a lot less when the hoses are not installed yet.


Hope some of that ^^^ helps (even though you were being a butt monkey, Chuck :thefinger: )





EDIT: Take a trip through this thread, probably good pics in there: https://www.jkowners.com/forum/write-up-dept-library/80502-diy-jk-ram-assist-hydro-assist-psc-~%24300.html

I'd search through it for you, but . . . :cwm13: . . . butt monkey :thefinger:
 
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