JKOwners Forum banner
1 - 20 of 38 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,929 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So i havent seen a writeup on how to replace the clutch...so i decided to do one...my bosses 2dr jk's release bearing went and since his brother owns the company he had me do it at our shop...

first things first...if you have never done a clutch replacement before on any type of vehicle this can be extremely rough for you especially if you dont have the right tools

if you dont have access to a lift, like i didnt, its gonna suck even more doing it on jack stands but it can be done just takes longer...jeep pays 7 hours for this repair it took me the better part of 10 hours on the floor...luckily i get paid by the hour and i got time and a half for this

i have attached pics and will be going step by step with the pics below (for the most part)

remember SAFETY FIRST, no joke, if you think something might not be safe, it probably isnt

pb blaster is your friend

bring the truck in and make sure you have enough room around it to work

disco the batts

remove center console
-pop off the handles with a 5/8ths wrench
-remove the 4 torx screws that hold the console
-pull ebrake all the way up and remove console pull console up from rear

remove shift tower torx bit and pull off shift tower

you now have to remove the lower boot cover and a foam insert to access the top cover
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,929 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
remove the 4 torx screws that hold the top cover to the trans
-you dont "have" to remove the top cover but thats how i do it on twin countershaft trans in the tractors so i did it here, its 6 more inches of clearance that you gain

now go under the truck

remove front and rear shafts
-mark position of shafts for re-installation
-a brass hammer will be beneficial to loosening the shafts

on the d/s (drivers side) of the tcase is your linkage, pop off the linkage and also remove the green clip holding the cable to the tcase bracket
-bungee this out of the way

remove the slave cylinder from the bell housing
-make sure you bungee it out of the way so you dont break the pos plastic

remove the starter
-it has 2 bolts into the bell housing
-bungee this out of the way as well
-you can leave the electric hooked up to it since the batts are disco'd
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,929 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
remove the trans skid plate

reach your hand up and disconnect the sensor and breather on top of the tcase
-small hands help


on the passenger side of the trans is a bracket that holds the fuel lines, remove the bolt and let the lines hang

there are 3 nuts inside of the crossmember that hold it to an isolator bracket under the trans, remove these three nuts

after removing the nuts you can place a floor jack under the backside of the tcase and gently jack up the trans assembly
-the motor will move slightly, but dont jack up too much that you pick up the vehicle

place a jackstand under the trans and remove the floor jack

now remove the crossmember
-4 bolts/nuts on both sides and 2 bolts through the fuel tank skid, remove all of these
-pry the d/s of the cross member down enough to clearance the trans isolator bracket and remove crossmember through the d/s
-remember what way it went in
-remove the trans isolator bracket from the bottom of the trans, 4 bolts

place a trans jack under the trans assembly
-install the jack towards the rear of the assembly for balance, remember most of the forward area of the trans is the bell housing and its empty
-strap the shit out of the trans assembly, i wrapped one up and over and another around the backside of the tcase cinching the assembly to the trans jack

you can now lift up the trans assembly with the trans jack and remove the jack stand

turn your attention towards the y-pipe of the exhaust
-4 bolts hold the exhaust to the manifolds, these suck cause the clipped nuts will most likely spin on you, i was able to reach in behind the splash shields and get a 9/16ths wrench on the nuts when they spun.
-remove the 4 bolts
-disco the 02 sensors

cut off the clamp where the y-pipe goes into the rest of the exhaust
-pb blaster and a soft faced hammer will release the slip joint
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,929 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
you can now fudge the y-pipe out from under the truck and out the d/s
-be careful not to damage the 02 sensors

now that the exhaust is out of the way you can lower the trans jack a little bit more so you can access all of the bell housing bolts
-the top 4 bellhousing bolts are a bitch to get to without lowering the jack
-2 of the top bolts hold a harness bracket on the p/s, once the bolts are removed you have to move the bracket up so you will be able to pull the trans out
-the bottom bolts are pretty straight forward to remove

once all of the bolts are out of the bell housing double check to make sure nothing is still connected to the trans assembly, wires etc

you can now pull the trans assembly back revealing the pressureplate assembly

remove the trans assembly out the d/s of vehicle

you can now replace the release bearing
-pull old one off the nose cone
-the release fork can be removed also, a clip holds the fork onto a ball and socket joint
-clean the fork off
-replace the release bearing, it clips onto the fork
-grease the ball and socket joint and where the slave cylinder will go
-apply anti-seize to the nose cone
-reinstall the release bearing and fork
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,929 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
after replacing the release bearing and fork turn your attention back to the pressureplate assembly

remove the pressureplate assembly
-i think it has 6 10mm bolts
-save the bolts
-you will get a new pressureplate assembly

remove the flywheel
-mark the flywheel before removal for installation reference
-torx bolts hold the flywheel to the crank

you can now replace the pilot bearing
-its a roller bearing in the center of the flywheel
-tap it out and you can tap the new one in, just be sure not to damage on installation

scuff up the flywheel with a 180grit sander

reinstall the flywheel
-use the marks you made on removal
-i forget what the torque specs are but you can get them on jko somewhere

using the clutch alignment tool install the clutch plate onto the flywheel
-the tool slides through the clutch plate and into the pilot bearing

install the pressure plate onto the flywheel over top of the clutch plate
-you will have to keep the clutch plate centered while you slide the pressure plate onto the dowel pins on the flywheel.
-torque the pressureplate, i believe its 37ftlbs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,929 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
now back to the trans assembly
-shift the trans into 1st gear,

align the input shaft into the clutch plate splines
-turning the output shaft will tell you if youre in the splines or not

once youre in the splines its time to slide the trans assembly all the way in and mate it back up with the motor
-you will have to jack up, down, adjust left right to get it to slide all the way in
-since the motor only has 2 mounts it helps to put a jack stand under the back of the motor to keep it from moving

mate up the trans with the motor
-mind the harness bracket up top, you need to slip it over the trans bell housing
-there is a plate behind the flywheel, just make sure it is sitting on the dowel pins to keep it from moving as youre pulling the trans in
-make sure all your bell housing bolts are aligned

once you have the motor and trans flush you can run the bell housing bolts back in

now that the trans is mated back up with the motor you can reinstall the y-pipe
-i got new clip bolts since the old ones were toast, they just clip onto the flange on the manifold
-make sure you dont mangle the 02 sensors
-reconnect the slip joint and install a new clamp

jack up on the trans jack and place a jack stand under the trans
-remove the trans jack
-reinstall the isolator and crossmember

remove the jack stand and lower the trans back down onto the crossmember with a floor jack
-reinstall the isolator bolts

reinstall the starter and slave cylinder
-once slave cylinder is installed check the pedal, make sure you have resistance, but not too much, it should be close to stock if using a stock replacement clutch

reconnect all wiring and tcase breather

reinstall trans skid

reinstall drive shafts

reinstall trans top cover, shift tower, and center console

reconnect batteries

hold onto your butts...turn the key

good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
497 Posts
I am supremely jealous of your mechanical abilities sir
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,214 Posts
Nice write-up, looks about as straight forward as it could be. I'd be tempted to remove the tcase with a couple more bolts while on the ground, make it a little easier to work with.

I'm at 45k and wondering when the stock clutch is going to start give me feedback!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,929 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Nice write-up, looks about as straight forward as it could be. I'd be tempted to remove the tcase with a couple more bolts while on the ground, make it a little easier to work with.

I'm at 45k and wondering when the stock clutch is going to start give me feedback!
you could do that too...the tcase has quite a few bolts holding it to the trans but the hardest ones would be the top 3...you'd just have to address those top ones when you have the motor hinged back giving you more room...

it was pretty straightforward, but doing it on jack stands sucked and im a big boy so not so much room...

on and beach sand was in every hole...i could have built a castle
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,214 Posts
you could do that too...the tcase has quite a few bolts holding it to the trans but the hardest ones would be the top 3...you'd just have to address those top ones when you have the motor hinged back giving you more room...

it was pretty straightforward, but doing it on jack stands sucked and im a big boy so not so much room...

on and beach sand was in every hole...i could have built a castle
Sounds good. I figure you got to the top bell bolts using long extensions from the tailshaft? That's how I usually get to the uppers...BMWs can be a bitch!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,929 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sounds good. I figure you got to the top bell bolts using long extensions from the tailshaft? That's how I usually get to the uppers...BMWs can be a bitch!
once you remove the cross member you can lower the tcase giving you the room to get a 12" extension and an impact swivel in from the side... im 300 lbs and squeezing myself up behind the trans assembly on the floor all the while straddling the trans jack was not going to happen...snapperheads 3/8ths gun makes quick work of the top 4 bolts...its hard to see but the harness bracket on the p/s can be clearanced from the bell housing with a long prybar, just pry it up and the tension on the harness will keep it out of the way
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Awesome write up!!! Book marked! I'm at 36k on my Rubicon.

What was the mileage on the Jeep shown?

What brand replacement parts were used? Do you think you should have resurfaced the flywheel or was the 180 grit sufficient?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,929 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Awesome write up!!! Book marked! I'm at 36k on my Rubicon.

What was the mileage on the Jeep shown?

What brand replacement parts were used? Do you think you should have resurfaced the flywheel or was the 180 grit sufficient?
sorry for the long response....

mileage was 110k...jeep does not recommend flywheel machining....according to them just use the sanding discs...the replacement clutch was just a stock replacement nothing special...when i do mine own i will be using a spec 2+ most likely
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
15,533 Posts
Holy involved install, Batman!

Just passed 50K and my TOB is shrieking like a chick getting mugged every time I touch the clutch, so it looks like I'll need to get some parts together and git r dun.

JC install party, with Ryan in attendance?:th_pray:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,214 Posts
Pilot bearing is one of those things that you just replace while you're in there. If you don't, then luck would have it that you have to tear it all back apart just to replace a $10 part.
Yep.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,173 Posts
Pilot bearing, NATIONAL TOB, and if youve got the scratch, an aftermarket slave cylinder would be easiest before you bleed the system.

I have gone through 3 MOPAR slave cylinders in 22k miles.
 
1 - 20 of 38 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top