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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I am starting to plan out the next step for my Jeep. It time to lift it. Since I have had nothing but good experiences with JKS products in the past I was going to give the JSPEC lift kit a try. Since I all ready have the ACOS spacers on the front and I’m planning on using them on the back, I am coming in around at a 4" lift(+/-). After speaking to JKS, they recommended that I stay with the sport lift (fixed length control arms). So this is my build sheet, let me know what you think, especially if I’m forgetting something. (In reference to a 4" lift)
Front ACOS JKS (Installed)
Back ACOS JKS
JSPEC 2" sport lift
Quicker Disconnects JKS
Front Adjustable Track bar JKS
Rancho RS 9000xl shocks (Own)
Rancho RS 7000 steering stabilizer
Steering Stabilizer Relocation Bracket JKS
Extended Brake lines Crown Performance

Items In Question
Sector Shaft Reinforcement Kit JKS (lost my welder in Sandy so I’m holding off)
Rear Track Bar relocation bracket JKS
Rear Adjustable track bar JKS
ACOS Pro upgrade front and back
 

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You can only benefit from running adjustable control arms. Not sure why the tech would try to discourage you from running adjustable control arms. Having the ability to adjust your pinion angle and caster especially at 4" of lift is going to be a big deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Control arms

What we discussed was, the longer length control arms move the bottom of coil spring. Using the ACOS, they recommend factory length control arms. Isn't that the reason why you go to an adjustable track bar? What about things like the drive shafts and transmission linkages, etc? Any issues what that stuff being around 4"
 

· A JKO DICK
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What we discussed was, the longer length control arms move the bottom of coil spring. Using the ACOS, they recommend factory length control arms. Isn't that the reason why you go to an adjustable track bar? What about things like the drive shafts and transmission linkages, etc? Any issues what that stuff being around 4"
Yep, you're going to need new drivshafts sooner than later. You will also have a great deal of spring bow in the rear when you adjust your pinion angle. You can either cut the spring perches off and reweld them on in the proper position after rotating the rear axle or jks sells bolt on perches that can be set where ever you need them after cutting the stock ones off. You can try RK spring wedges instead, but they may not be enough.

You will also need longer rear sway bar links.

I also agree tha you want adjustable arms. If you buy fixed you will regret it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
More ?

So this is what is starting to worry me. The first? Is, does all this stuff have to happen @ the same time that I do the lift? I'm I going to be doing damage to my Jeep by not getting longer Drive shafts? or can it wait.
2nd? Is, all this stuff with adjusting control arms and track bars etc, can I installed everything myself and then have someone dial it in for me. I’m fairly mechanically inclined and I enjoy working on my cars myself, but I’m I entering the professional installation zone?
jks sells bolt on perches
ASSFROW, thank you, and that is more to the point of, is setting the springs in the right place, something that I can do myself. Especially since its bolt on I understand that it can be moved. But it’s also drilling in spring retainers etc. Rancho suggested bump stop extensions since it’s not a true 4" set up.
 

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Yes you can do all the install yourself on a bolt on system. After the install you need to take it to an alignment shop so they can make final adjustments to get within specs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Alignment

That's good to know, sounds like I need to look into local shops. Even if it cost more, is this some thing the dealership can do, or because it's after market they wont touch it?
 

· A JKO DICK
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You can do it all yourself. Just make sure you have bandaids. I have done everything on mine by myself. You can do everything in stages. If you have a 4 door then everything is less critical and still less critical if it's a manual. I have a 4 inch kit that gave me a bit more than 5 inches on my 2 door. If you take it easy offroad and don't disconnect the drive shafts will last longer Goodysgotacuda has some good info on servicing the stock shafts. I would start with the lift and see how much spring bow you have after adjusting the rear pinion, if it's not much you can save lots of money, time and trouble by using Rock Krawler spring wedges.

Getting everything adjusted isn't that hard. I read install instruction for Rock Krawler, Teraflex and Rancho kits before doing my install. I got them from Quadratec's website. They were easy to find there. You just find the kits and there are PDF's for the instructions. I also used this forum a ton of course. If you get stuck on something or need to find out how to adjust something it's probably here and if you can't find it, ask. Trust me you'll get answers.

I'm still running my stock front drive shaft, but I notched the tranny skid. I have an Adams shaft in the garage, but I had been chasing a vibration that I suspected was tires. I mounted my new wheels and tires last night and it was the tires. I've had an Adams rear drive shaft on for about 6 months and it works just like it should.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Lots to think about

Lots of information to look into. I defiantly know what a valuable information resources this forum can be. I'm going to look @ the $, and see how much difference it really is.
 
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