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Is it really necessary to run the Neg. (Ground) cable all the way from winch to battery? Can't you simply ground the winch to the frame. Provided that the battery has a large enough conductor grounding it to the frame to handle what the winch would pull.

The reason for the question is that my Warn Power plant came with both cables long enough to go all the way to the battery.

Steve
 

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You can do anything at least once.

Not being a smartass but if a company provides a cable and directs that cable to a certain location I would imagine that it should go to that location. Especially with the way warranties go these days.


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Going off Electric Theory there is nothing wrong with grounding elsewhere, and on most instances the ground is preferred to be as short as possible. I do not on the other hand know if Warn has another reason for wanting the positive and negative cables going to the battery unless they are wanting the connections to be as high up in the engine bay as possible so nothing can short in deep forging.
 

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You can do anything at least once.

Not being a smartass but if a company provides a cable and directs that cable to a certain location I would imagine that it should go to that location. Especially with the way warranties go these days.


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...and even when you think you've used enough zip ties, use a few more. :beer::beer:
 

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FWIW, I think I tried this when I wired my winch up, but ended up going to the battery. For some reason my Jeep didn't like it. I ended up with the lightning bolt, my dash lit up like a Christmas tree, then when I shut the Jeep off it died. I ended up getting jumped and went straight home and changed the wiring. Never had a problem after that.

I don't know, maybe it was unrelated to the fact that I didn't go to the battery. Maybe I just didn't have a good ground. All I know is that to the battery, I've never had another thought about it.
 

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I read a post where the winch was grounded to the body/frame, and the first time he winched, his rear brake lines burned off.
He was lucky it wasn't some of the computers.

Any large load should have dedicated ground and hot wires to the battery.
 

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Could potentially put more load and make it find a ground if need be. Just run it to the battery, you already are running the power, why not.
 

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If you don't you are increasing resistance and in turn it will run the winch, cables, and battery to run a lot hotter due to the added resistance, the extra ground cable makes the path of least resistance the easiest therefore making everything more efficient, run cooler and last longer. I have done custom car audio in the past as in adding up to two extra alternators, more batteries than you can imagine and one fucked up ground wire brought it all to a smoking halt, thank god I that part of the install was not mine.
 

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^^^ This is correct. On a large amp draw device like that your circuit path has to be balanced. The leads on the winch I believe are either 4 or 2 gauge where as the battery ground cable on the JK is a 6 gauge I believe. Think of it in terms of restriction. If you ground back through the frame, you're still dropping the return connection path by 33 to 66 percent by going to a 6 gauge at the final connection. That equals resistance which can cause electrical fires to start from turning the smallest gauge wire into a heating element or it can cause the motor in the winch to malfunction due to poor grounding. Either way, bad.
 

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:)
:)
Theoreticaly, You could upgrade the battery ground to a bigger size by combining the size of the OEM ground and the winch ground. BUT ---

I read a post where the winch was grounded to the body/frame, and the first time he winched, his rear brake lines burned off.
He was lucky it wasn't some of the computers.

Any large load should have dedicated ground and hot wires to the battery.


^^^ This is correct. On a large amp draw device like that your circuit path has to be balanced. The leads on the winch I believe are either 4 or 2 gauge where as the battery ground cable on the JK is a 6 gauge I believe. Think of it in terms of restriction. If you ground back through the frame, you're still dropping the return connection path by 33 to 66 percent by going to a 6 gauge at the final connection. That equals resistance which can cause electrical fires to start from turning the smallest gauge wire into a heating element or it can cause the motor in the winch to malfunction due to poor grounding. Either way, bad.
--- The connections would have to be solid ( preferably welded ). Even then you would still run the risk of passing the current accross an electronics device. That would be very bad for the device. I've seen the effects that a welder can have on both electrical equipment and electronic equipment when the opperator did not take enough time to be sure that he had a good ground before he started welding. :pissed:
 

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I plan on running 0 gauge when I do mine, we'll just say I have continuous acess to welding leads and ifnit gets a few nicks in it you can't use it in the refineries anymore.
 

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I plan on running 0 gauge when I do mine, we'll just say I have continuous acess to welding leads and ifnit gets a few nicks in it you can't use it in the refineries anymore.
Do you know what the price is for scrap copper these days?:idea:
 

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I wouldn't run 300-400 amps though the frame with all the little electronics connected to it... No wonder the lightning bolt showed up...
And I guess the frame has a different resistance than a nice big cable...
 

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The chassis is not necessarily a good conductor especially when you're trying to pull high current over bolt on accessories like a bumper that is painted/powder coated.
You're better off making the small effort to run the supplied ground cable to the battery then to risk welded bolts and/or electronic glitches due to poor ground contact to high current draw accessories like a winch.
 
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