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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, new to the thread... I read about Venom on here that modded the smart bar to a rocker switch... But I had to figure a lot of things out on my own to make it work. I figured I would ask if anyone would like to see a second write up on it with a little more detail...

my jeep: 2012 jk sport, bought it essentially stock with the exception of a winch and pod lights on the A-pillar and aftermarket front bumper. Added a 3.5" RE lift, and im wearing down the 33's that came on it then upping to 35's.

A little about me: I've rebuilt vintage volkswagens into daily drivers and added plenty of modern electrical components to them from rewiring whole vehicles to kill switches to stereos to alarms and everything in between. Electrical is nothing foreign to me, so I hope there will be trust in this write up as I am new.

Let me know if this interests you guys, and I will provide it by the end of next week. I must say, it was slightly more costly than just putting sway bar disconnects on, but the convenience is unbeatable and (from what I can tell) there is no loss of what useful flex I used on what rocks I have been on.

Also, I wired up and in-cab winch switch and put all 4 lights onto one switch vs the two cheap ones the rig came with, so that would be in the write up as well.

As I said, Let me know and I will do it. If not, I won't waste any time and move on to the next thing! :)
 

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The smrt bar is a nice idea, but they are not that great in reality. The motors and electronics are not water or dust sealed. I don't know anyone who wheels in wet lands with one that still works.
 

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I am curious to see how you wired it. I kind of buggered up my connector to the disco motor when I installed a high steer and had the disco motor flipped. I was not thinking and when I turned side to side to check things out it wiped the connector off the motor. I tried to trace the harness but it ties into a main harness. I was able to cobble the wires back together but it does not give me the warm and fuzzies. I have been told (could be total bs) that the canbus system does not like wires that are soldered or spliced otherwise it would be easy to just splice in a new connector harness.
 

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I have been told (could be total bs) that the canbus system does not like wires that are soldered or spliced otherwise it would be easy to just splice in a new connector harness.
Nope, there is no accuracy to that statement. If you do an extra poor job and it's intermittent connection, it could screw up the whole vehicle's electrical system. But if you actually do a correct solder joint, there is electrically no reason not to splice CAN wires (someone might have said it'll create an impedance mis-match, but it won't matter and I don't think vehicle harnesses are really impedance controlled anyways - it theoretically might become a problem if you spliced all your CAN wires dozens of times all around the vehicle).
 

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Nope, there is no accuracy to that statement. If you do an extra poor job and it's intermittent connection, it could screw up the whole vehicle's electrical system. But if you actually do a correct solder joint, there is electrically no reason not to splice CAN wires (someone might have said it'll create an impedance mis-match, but it won't matter and I don't think vehicle harnesses are really impedance controlled anyways - it theoretically might become a problem if you spliced all your CAN wires dozens of times all around the vehicle).

that last sentence made me feel like putting on rubber soled shoes.
Then its subject matter summoned this in my head, I suppose it’s still hanging around in there from 5th or 6th grade ..


sorry, it was that electrifying

:shocked:



:jeep2:
 

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I was fortunate to buy a rubicon swaybar off someone who just assumed it was broken and got it pretty damn cheap. I took off the electronic module, cleaned and re-lubed the guts, then installed evo's air actuator since I was already running ARB on-board air and the spod. It also has a gasket to keep crud out.

It is pretty damn sweet not having to get out of the rig to disconnect, turn a knob manually, or worry about the original smart bar electronics crapping out. I do have swaybar links installed also that can allow full disconnection just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I?m terribly sorry everybody, I didn?t get any notifications with your replies!

I would be more than happy to post how I did it, just as others have, but more in-depth with step by step instructions.

I have photos and videos, it?s relatively straightforward and I have a .stl file if anybody does this to have a new cap made specifically for making the setup work. The guy who did my 3D print helped me get it just right, and it turned out flawless.

I really went all out on this to ensure longetivity. Better yet? I did take it apart and seal up all of the joining surfaces with RTV. I then decided that if Jeeps are submerged in water whilst driving through rivers and streams, I might as well dunk it in the bathtub for 30 minutes. Not a drop made it inside. So I scraped off the RTV and reapplied. It is water tight with the new cap I designed, and that?s all I?m worried about.

Although, in Phoenix, AZ... not many opportunities to submerge myself arise. So I should be good.

I?ll get to the write up within the next week or so, the missus has a laundry list for me this week so bare with me!
 

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What happened to this guy?
Was looking forward to seeing how he did it.
I guess it was bullshit
 
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