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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just got my mid arms in the mail that I got second hand from a forum member...

Got a few questions,...for installing front lower arms, can I simply jack up the front end and use the stands on the axle tubes as I would if I was removing my tires or do i need to use the frame for support, remove the stock arms then install the RK's?

Also, is some difficulty expected when installing them at the recommend length set by RK (longer than the stock arms to get 4.5-5.0 degrees of + caster, which is what I am aiming for obviously)? Considering the mounting locations are not changing....

I have never installed aftermarket arms before, I just want to assure myself I have the proper method before going at it. Thanks....
 

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I would imagine you want to let the axle 'float' if possible, to be able to position it easier for the different length ca's.. have not done it personally, so please let others jump in and help.
 

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You can change 1 arm at a time with the jeep on the ground or put it on jackstands and remove tire/wheel for some more room to work. A ratchet strap can be used to move the axle so the longer arms will bolt it.
 

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Yeah, frame on jack stands. Jack under the axel.

If you have another jack stand, you might want it under the axle so you can use the jack on the diff to adjust the angle of the axle.

You may want a strap or 2 to reposition the axle if it gets out of whack.
 

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I would install them however it is easiest. Just make sure to tighten everything with it back on the ground and with the tires back on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I did mine one at a time on the ground using a ratchet strap to move the axle as needed.
how exactly did you configure the ratchet strap?
 

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how exactly did you configure the ratchet strap?
Loop it around the axle closest to the arm being replaced then to the "crash bar to pull it forward or to the cross member by the transmission/transfer case to move it back. Its best to use a heavier duty strap to make ratcheting it easier. This will make better sense when you take a look at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Loop it around the axle closest to the arm being replaced then to the "crash bar to pull it forward or to the cross member by the transmission/transfer case to move it back. Its best to use a heavier duty strap to make ratcheting it easier. This will make better sense when you take a look at it.
yeah unfortunately I no longer have a crash bar due to installing my PSC BFH front bumper...
 

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I just installed mine a couple of days ago. I left the jeep on the ground loosened both factory lower arms but left the bolts in on one side. Removed the other sides arm completely. Then I used the ratchet strap method to pull the axle forward and slid the bolts in but did not tighten. Repeat steps on the other side and then tighten all bolts to spec. I adjusted my arms to 23" center to center and with 3" of lift got almost 6* of caster. Try to tighten the jam nuts before you install the arms as they're hard to get to while installed. Just make sure the joints are in line with each other. Hope this makes since.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I just installed mine a couple of days ago. I left the jeep on the ground loosened both factory lower arms but left the bolts in on one side. Removed the other sides arm completely. Then I used the ratchet strap method to pull the axle forward and slid the bolts in but did not tighten. Repeat steps on the other side and then tighten all bolts to spec. I adjusted my arms to 23" center to center and with 3" of lift got almost 6* of caster. Try to tighten the jam nuts before you install the arms as they're hard to get to while installed. Just make sure the joints are in line with each other. Hope this makes since.

6 degrees sounds a little high. Factory is around 4.5-5.00 correct?
 

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That's correct, but the RK'S instructions said to adjust them to 23"1/8. But I had heard that 23" was closer to correct for a 3" lift. So I tried that and the caster came out to 6*. Before I broke everything loose I decided to test drive to see if there would be any driveline vibrations. There was none and the jeep felt great so I decided to leave it this way for now.
 

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You can definitly do the rachet strap method if you want to! Most of the time we tend to put the frame on jack stands and let the axle droop all the way out with the wheels off. This takes all the tension off of the axle and you dont haveto fight the spring so much. As for the measurements they are a basic starting point, they will be pretty close to what you run them at but each rig may have to adjust them slightly to get the caster they want. Let us know if you have any other questions.

Thanks,
RK
 

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Discussion Starter #16
You can definitly do the rachet strap method if you want to! Most of the time we tend to put the frame on jack stands and let the axle droop all the way out with the wheels off. This takes all the tension off of the axle and you dont haveto fight the spring so much. As for the measurements they are a basic starting point, they will be pretty close to what you run them at but each rig may have to adjust them slightly to get the caster they want. Let us know if you have any other questions.

Thanks,
RK
Thanks for the response. I'll set the lengths at what was stated in the earlier post, 22.8 and see how the ride is. I imagine it will make a world a difference in ride quality from where I am at now with the factory lower arms still in place and the caster being at only 1.6 degress. Considering I am only at 2.5 inches of lift, I don't imagine driveline vibes begin to much of an issue, but who knows, I am still learning the in's and out's.

BTW, the arms I bought didn't come with any stickers on em. You think I could swing by the shop and grab a few to represent proper? Hahaa...

Thanks again guys...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
RK bump? Haha...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Just finished installing the arms today. I did the ratchet strap method. Passenger side first, had to push the axle forward slightly to be able to mount em up, but on the drivers side, for whatever reason, I had to pull the axle back, (much less than I had to pull the other side forward mind you) to get the arms to mount up. Should this be expected? I just wanted to make sure because I assumed that I would have had to move the axle forward for both sides....Both arms were measured out beforehand, center of eye to eye, at 23 1/8. What do you think? Even if my measurement were say off by an 1/8 of an inch for the drivers side, would that matter?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
bump
 
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