Installing rear axle shafts

66794 Views 69 Replies 34 Participants Last post by MUD707, Sep 12, 2019

PhilD

Discussion Starter · Oct 12, 2008

Replacing the Jeep Wrangler JK rear axle shafts with the Superior Evolution Rear Axle Kit is a relatively simple task. The kit comes complete with both axle shafts, bearings seals, collars, and wheel studs. There are different kits for the Rubicon Dana 44 (32 spline) and non Rubicon Dana 44 (30 spline).

If you are not going to re-use the factory retaining plates and ABS tone rings, then you will to purchase these seperately. It makes sense to do this, as you will then be able to leave the factory shafts intact and ready to be used as spares. You will also need to replace the four torque bolts on each retaining plate, as they should not be re-used.

Retaining Plate - Mopar 68008523AA (2 required)
Retaining Plate Nut - Mopar 68003275AA (8 required)
ABS Tone Ring - Currie CE-11320 (2 required)

Superior Axle shaft compared to factory shaft. They look very similar, the difference is in what they are made of and the cold-formed rolled spline process that produces axle splines that are up to 35% stronger than traditional cut splines. The way the bearings are fitted also differs slightly.

First thing you will need to do is press on the ABS tone rings. These need to clear the shaft collar by approx 1/8"-1/4", do not go further than 3/8" or they will no longer line up with the ABS sensors. The opening of the tone ring should be facing outwards towards the hub end of the shaft.

Apply grease to the axle seal and place the retainer plate axle seal on to the shaft, followed by the bearing and collar. The inner bearing surface is chamfered on one side, which indicates the way it goes on the shaft, chamfered side towards outboard end of shaft. Then press the bearing and collar on to the shaft, until the bearing seats on the lip on the shaft. Every time you have built up pressure with the press, it is a good idea to release the pressure and rotate the shaft in the press 90°, this insures that bearing and collar are being pressed on evenly.

Installing the shafts is simple, exlcuding the lug nuts there are just seven bolts/nuts that need to be undone for each shaft. First, remove the caliper and rotor, then undo the four retaining plate nuts.

Remove the bolt on the ABS sensor and pull the sensor back so it is out of the way, there is no need to remove it.

The bearings are lubricated by the differntial fluid, so it is a good idea to tilt the axle up slightly so as not to spill diff fluid when you remove the shaft.

The shaft should just pull out, very slight force with a pry bar will help it un-seat if it is stuck.

Looking inside the housing you can see the diff fluid (showing the reflection of the bearing).

Bolt in the Superior lug nuts, some blue Loctite will ensure they do not move. Grease the bearing with suitable wheel bearing grease, in this case Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease, wipe any excess grease off the bearing mounting surface.

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grimmjeeper

· #61 · Jun 1, 2013 (Edited)

Goodysgotacuda said:
Pry bar between two studs against the ground won't do?

You and your silly common sense logic have no place here... (as I go grab my tools...)

Edit: Now with properly torqued lug studs...

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[email protected]

· #62 · Jul 11, 2014

Hi, i just got a set of alloy usa rear axles for my jk rubicon which i ordered to be assembled with everything pressed on but came un assembled.

looking at the parts i got, i got
the 2 axles
tone rings X2
bearing axle shaft X 2 (the bigger bearings)
retain ring bearing x2 (holds the bearing in place?)
seal out X 2
wheel studs

but i didn't get this bit that i have terribly outlined in red from grimmjeeper.

was i meant to get that? or do i need to get that off my old shafts? i havent pulled them yet, but does that mean i have to take off the 2 bearings and seal to get that piece off? what is everyone calling that? i assume it just secures the axle to the housing. is this the retaining plate?

so in order from first item to last in order of pressing on it goes

1) tone ring
2) retaining plate (if that's what its called)
3) seal out
4) bearing axle shaft
5) retain ring?

so the tone ring should be 1/8 to 1/4" from the hub end of the shaft? or from where the shaft steps down to the smaller diameter at the diff end?

then the reatiner plate is pressed on up against the tone ring?
the seal goes hard up to the retainer plate
the bearing goes hard up against the seal?
the bearing retainer goes hard up against the bearing?

cheers
bit annoying having to take this retainer plate off the other shafts, means i wont have spares.

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TCdawg

· #63 · Jul 11, 2014

[email protected] said:
Hi, i just got a set of alloy usa rear axles for my jk rubicon which i ordered to be assembled with everything pressed on but came un assembled.

looking at the parts i got, i got
the 2 axles
tone rings X2
bearing axle shaft X 2 (the bigger bearings)
retain ring bearing x2 (holds the bearing in place?)
seal out X 2
wheel studs

but i didn't get this bit that i have terribly outlined in red from grimmjeeper.

was i meant to get that? or do i need to get that off my old shafts? i havent pulled them yet, but does that mean i have to take off the 2 bearings and seal to get that piece off? what is everyone calling that? i assume it just secures the axle to the housing. is this the retaining plate?

so in order from first item to last in order of pressing on it goes

1) tone ring
2) retaining plate (if that's what its called)
3) seal out
4) bearing axle shaft
5) retain ring?

so the tone ring should be 1/8 to 1/4" from the hub end of the shaft? or from where the shaft steps down to the smaller diameter at the diff end?

then the reatiner plate is pressed on up against the tone ring?
the seal goes hard up to the retainer plate
the bearing goes hard up against the seal?
the bearing retainer goes hard up against the bearing?

cheers
bit annoying having to take this retainer plate off the other shafts, means i wont have spares.

That piece you have outlined in red is the retainer plate. You can re-use the retainer plates from your current axles.

Yes, you will have to cut off the bearing retainer and bearing to get the retainer plate off. If you want to keep your old shafts as spares just order a set of new retainer plates from the jeep dealer or your favorite online parts supplier.

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afletche

· #64 · Oct 11, 2014 (Edited)

anyone got a tip for what to do when one one the 4 studs/bolts on the retaining plate is spinning, so i can;t get the nut off. i don't have room to get the sawzall in there to cut the bolt and whatever i do i cant get the bolt to wedge so the nut will turn against it. i'm putting in a whole new axle shaft assembly so don't care if i ruin this one, just want to get this last nut out! i guess if i could weld i could tack weld it to the plate, but don't have any of that.

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afletche

· #65 · Oct 11, 2014

ok - managed to get the sawzall in and it's done. now i need to go buy another nut as that one is never coming off the end of that bolt.

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Masterz

· #66 · Jun 18, 2015

Bump for an old thread, was very informative, changed my shafts last night. Also proof that the search function works when looking for information

I was basically looking for the location to install the tone rings, etc and torque specs. To install the tone rings, bearings I have access to a bearing warmer which makes the job a lot easier than having to press them on.

Thanks for the good info

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Tumbleweed44

· #67 · Apr 22, 2017

Masterz said:
Bump for an old thread.
I have access to a bearing warmer.

I'm guessing NOT a microwave oven? :laughing2:

Thanks again for all the info.

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MUD707

· #68 · Sep 12, 2019

07 JKU rear dana44 limited slip left axle stuck

My 2007 unlimited X with 192k miles, rear dana 44 with 4.10 gears and limited slip diff is leaking fluid on driver side rear. I watched many videos and read many threads on how to remove and replace the axle. So I ordered a Yukon axle with seal, bearing and everything I need. I go to remove my old axle take off everything needed and it won't budge. I tried prying on outside of axle and inside of diff nothing moved. I had a old rotor from before lying around so I flipped it and used a smalll 10lb sledge going around top, bottom, sides, hitting it mildly (didn't want to break something) trying to get it loose, no luck. Going to try using the rotor as a slide hammer tonight to see if that helps.

My questions are how hard should I pound or in this case pull on the rotor to get the axle free, and is there anything that I may strip on the inside of the diff. if I really have at it? Is there anything special about the limited slip diff on the non rubi danna 44 I might have missed? I don't want to damage or replace gears in the diff when on the inside everything still looks good and almost new with just a little wear marks.

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Fklein6768

· #69 · Sep 12, 2019

MUD707 said:
My 2007 unlimited X with 192k miles, rear dana 44 with 4.10 gears and limited slip diff is leaking fluid on driver side rear. I watched many videos and read many threads on how to remove and replace the axle. So I ordered a Yukon axle with seal, bearing and everything I need. I go to remove my old axle take off everything needed and it won't budge. I tried prying on outside of axle and inside of diff nothing moved. I had a old rotor from before lying around so I flipped it and used a smalll 10lb sledge going around top, bottom, sides, hitting it mildly (didn't want to break something) trying to get it loose, no luck. Going to try using the rotor as a slide hammer tonight to see if that helps.

My questions are how hard should I pound or in this case pull on the rotor to get the axle free, and is there anything that I may strip on the inside of the diff. if I really have at it? Is there anything special about the limited slip diff on the non rubi danna 44 I might have missed? I don't want to damage or replace gears in the diff when on the inside everything still looks good and almost new with just a little wear marks.

Using the rotor as the hammer will be better/less binding than a sledge on a smaller area. If it doesnt option 2 is hammer away/it will come out eventually...make sure the race is out when you go to install the new one/I would bet yours stays behind like mine did.

I looked at it for 10+ minutes before the duh light bulb went on....lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

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MUD707

· #70 · Sep 12, 2019

Thanks. I was pretty sure that was the route to follow, but wanted some advice. Didn't want to mess up something by being to rough and paying for it later. The front axles came out no problem when I upgraded those. these are just a pain in the ass

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