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Installing rear axle shafts

66906 Views 69 Replies 34 Participants Last post by  MUD707
Replacing the Jeep Wrangler JK rear axle shafts with the Superior Evolution Rear Axle Kit is a relatively simple task. The kit comes complete with both axle shafts, bearings seals, collars, and wheel studs. There are different kits for the Rubicon Dana 44 (32 spline) and non Rubicon Dana 44 (30 spline).

If you are not going to re-use the factory retaining plates and ABS tone rings, then you will to purchase these seperately. It makes sense to do this, as you will then be able to leave the factory shafts intact and ready to be used as spares. You will also need to replace the four torque bolts on each retaining plate, as they should not be re-used.


  • Retaining Plate - Mopar 68008523AA (2 required)
  • Retaining Plate Nut - Mopar 68003275AA (8 required)
  • ABS Tone Ring - Currie CE-11320 (2 required)

Superior Axle shaft compared to factory shaft. They look very similar, the difference is in what they are made of and the cold-formed rolled spline process that produces axle splines that are up to 35% stronger than traditional cut splines. The way the bearings are fitted also differs slightly.


First thing you will need to do is press on the ABS tone rings. These need to clear the shaft collar by approx 1/8"-1/4", do not go further than 3/8" or they will no longer line up with the ABS sensors. The opening of the tone ring should be facing outwards towards the hub end of the shaft.


Apply grease to the axle seal and place the retainer plate axle seal on to the shaft, followed by the bearing and collar. The inner bearing surface is chamfered on one side, which indicates the way it goes on the shaft, chamfered side towards outboard end of shaft. Then press the bearing and collar on to the shaft, until the bearing seats on the lip on the shaft. Every time you have built up pressure with the press, it is a good idea to release the pressure and rotate the shaft in the press 90°, this insures that bearing and collar are being pressed on evenly.


Installing the shafts is simple, exlcuding the lug nuts there are just seven bolts/nuts that need to be undone for each shaft. First, remove the caliper and rotor, then undo the four retaining plate nuts.


Remove the bolt on the ABS sensor and pull the sensor back so it is out of the way, there is no need to remove it.


The bearings are lubricated by the differntial fluid, so it is a good idea to tilt the axle up slightly so as not to spill diff fluid when you remove the shaft.


The shaft should just pull out, very slight force with a pry bar will help it un-seat if it is stuck.


Looking inside the housing you can see the diff fluid (showing the reflection of the bearing).


Bolt in the Superior lug nuts, some blue Loctite will ensure they do not move. Grease the bearing with suitable wheel bearing grease, in this case Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease, wipe any excess grease off the bearing mounting surface.
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I just did the right side this weekend following this guide. It was very easy. Using the brake rotor as a slide hammer worked great. I pressed the bearing and collar on seperately

Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk 2
Great Post

After brake and rotor replacement, I have determined the left rear shaft was bent. I don't have a press, but I found a vendor who will press everything included in the price of $435 for a set of chrome-moly axles and all parts needed. The pics are great. Thanks.:rockon:
I had my local orw build up my new axles because i don't have a press. They installed my tone rings backwards, is this a big deal?
I had my local orw build up my new axles because i don't have a press. They installed my tone rings backwards, is this a big deal?
Shouldn't cause any problems for you, as long as it lines up with the sensor.
Shouldn't cause any problems for you, as long as it lines up with the sensor.
Thanks that was the answer I was hoping to hear.
I just did the right side this weekend following this guide. It was very easy. Using the brake rotor as a slide hammer worked great. I pressed the bearing and collar on seperately

Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk 2
using the brake rotor as a slide really does work well. A note to anyone that plans to do this...remove your ABS sensor first. If you don't you'll give the hub a good whack with the rotor and it will pop so far off that it will break your sensor. Ask me how I know.
Everything works fine even though the tone rings were installed backwards.
Having Technical Difficulties

I'm currently working on this project. I pressed my bearing and collar, tried to install the shaft back on to the axle housing but the retaining plate bolts don't reach any more. So i cant complete the install. I'm not sure if its the new bearing that was included in the kit, which came fully encased, not open like the cone version on the OEM version that is causing the issue. when i compare the press distances to the original shaft it's right on the money, the only thing i can think of, is that the fully encased bearing doest allow for the shaft to fully insert into the housing, thus causing this problem. anyone have any suggestions on what to do? Or am I just a rambling madman who needs some advise from some more seasoned Jeep do it yourselfers.

Any feedback would be great. Also, this is my fist post. :)
:shitstorm:
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Check the housing the "cover" for the old bearing is still in there which isn't letting it seat all the way. Should be able to pop it out with a small screwdriver.

Is this thing on?
I will check on that

That sounds like a totally genius idea. I keep remembering at what it looks like on the inside, and i just remember seeing an angled inside lip. and this is just so peculiar to me. It makes total sense that it its the cover to the old bearing. or the Cup as many refer to it, i believe. I really hope i haven't been busting my nuts over this all day trying to make rocket surgery over such a small problem. if this is the case. I have them stuck on both sides and I will need to pull them on both before continuing my install. Tried posting some pics put I'm having difficulties. I am a noob to JKOwners and working on jeeps. Gotta start somewhere. anyway. thanks for the help. I will post on my progress and will try the screw driver bit as soon as i get up.
U might not even need the screwdriver it may just come right out:beer:

Don't ask how I know....lol

Is this thing on?
I'm currently working on this project. I pressed my bearing and collar, tried to install the shaft back on to the axle housing but the retaining plate bolts don't reach any more. So i cant complete the install. I'm not sure if its the new bearing that was included in the kit, which came fully encased, not open like the cone version on the OEM version that is causing the issue. when i compare the press distances to the original shaft it's right on the money, the only thing i can think of, is that the fully encased bearing doest allow for the shaft to fully insert into the housing, thus causing this problem. anyone have any suggestions on what to do? Or am I just a rambling madman who needs some advise from some more seasoned Jeep do it yourselfers.

Any feedback would be great. Also, this is my fist post. :)
:shitstorm:

Did you remove the old bearing race from the axle tube?
Is the old race still stuck in there?
It was the race. And it took more than a hammer to take it out. I had problems with the bearings on this side before. Had a shop do them for me about 4 months prior, but they started acting up. Decided to do them myself after seeing how bad it was once i took the brake disk off. It was horrible. Anyway, It looked like the previous mechanics took a chainsaw and rocks to it. it was a mess. eventually I got it out. Took a torch and some other tools and smoothed the surfaces out. I finally got the new axle in with no problem. Took the Jeep out last night in the Snow but had a catastrophic failure as i slipped into a snow covered ditch i did not foresee and snapped my front weak sauce DANA 35. Now its back to the drawing board. at least my rear axle is working well and got me out of the muck no problem. Thanks for the help everyone. Now for the next project. Any suggestions on what to replace this one with? I was thinking of the Dynatrac prorock44 unlimited. But i will go with anything else that is possibly a bit cheaper. A fully assebled product is preferred, but not necessary.
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I just wanted to add one thing to this write up as I've been doing a little research.

I'm swapping in G2 brand 35 spline shafts to go with my locker. Like other shafts, they reuse (or use new) retainer plates and tone rings. They do come with everything else.

They don't put the torque specs for the lug studs in the box but they recommend that the studs be installed in the flange with locktite and that you torque them to 75-85 lb-ft. They also recommend that torque for the lug nuts once you put the wheel on.
I just wanted to add one thing to this write up as I've been doing a little research.

I'm swapping in G2 brand 35 spline shafts to go with my locker. Like other shafts, they reuse (or use new) retainer plates and tone rings. They do come with everything else.

They don't put the torque specs for the lug studs in the box but they recommend that the studs be installed in the flange with locktite and that you torque them to 75-85 lb-ft. They also recommend that torque for the lug nuts once you put the wheel on.
I just threw in a new driver side last weekend and one of them was loose on the shaft i pulled-added to my routine maintenance checklist.

Is this thing on?
One note to add (or to reiterate) when assembling the rear axle shafts.

I found that the axle ring has one side that's chamfered to make pressing it on easier. Also, it was easier to press on the bearing by itself first, followed by the axle ring which takes noticeably more force to press on.

But here's a 35 spline G2 axle shaft fully assembled (without the studs being torqued down yet because I need a second set of hands to do that).

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(without the studs being torqued down yet because I need a second set of hands to do that).
Pry bar between two studs against the ground won't do?
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