Glad it was useful 
Installing rear axle shafts
Replacing the Jeep Wrangler JK rear axle shafts with the Superior Evolution Rear Axle Kit is a relatively simple task. The kit comes complete with both axle shafts, bearings seals, collars, and wheel studs. There are different kits for the Rubicon Dana 44 (32 spline) and non Rubicon Dana 44 (30 spline).
If you are not going to re-use the factory retaining plates and ABS tone rings, then you will to purchase these seperately. It makes sense to do this, as you will then be able to leave the factory shafts intact and ready to be used as spares. You will also need to replace the four torque bolts on each retaining plate, as they should not be re-used.
If you are not going to re-use the factory retaining plates and ABS tone rings, then you will to purchase these seperately. It makes sense to do this, as you will then be able to leave the factory shafts intact and ready to be used as spares. You will also need to replace the four torque bolts on each retaining plate, as they should not be re-used.
- Retaining Plate - Mopar 68008523AA (2 required)
- Retaining Plate Nut - Mopar 68003275AA (8 required)
- ABS Tone Ring - Currie CE-11320 (2 required)
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I did this today. I couldn't get my axles out even by prying lightly against the drum brake. I found that if you put the disc back on backwards and thread the nuts on a little you can use the disc as a slide hammer. Worked perfectly. And, if you are tying to figure out which axle is longer or shorter, make sure you have the lug nuts threaded on. I was trying to put the long axle in the sort side
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Great write up as always, pulled my shafts to replace a few broken studs 
long story. I used the fliped rotor trick, my shafts wouldnt budge.
Hey PhilD..I just replaced my left rear axle inside an hour.. Really easy thanks for the info.
Glad it was usefulHey PhilD..I just replaced my left rear axle inside an hour.. Really easy thanks for the info.
Not too bad.
I just did this today & thought I'd add a few tips for those about to try it. My seal was leaking for a while & made a holy mess out of everything on the driver's side. I used that as an opportunity to replace my axle shafts while I was in there. I used 2 full cans of Brakleen to clean it all up (both sides) plus the wheel & tire.
1. The Brake Caliper bolts & axle retaining nuts are both 18mm. Ratcheting wrench is handy here as access is tight.
2. The ABS sensor bolt is 8mm. I used a 1/4" drive socket & ratchet and a~6" extension to clear the swaybar bracketry on the driver's side.
3. The tip Charles gave on using the caliper as a slide hammer was a good one.
4. Don't forget the "Brakleen" for cleaning the greasy fingerprints off your brakes before reassembly. Especially after step 3 above!
5. The Superior Wheel Studs use a 3/4" socket to screw them in. I also used anti-sieze instead of loctite as I think they'll be plenty tight & I want to pull them back apart when I get my Spyntec fronts (to swap bolt pattern). They are 1/2-20 x 2" long.
6. Don't forget the Loctite on the Caliper bolts & ABS sensor bolt.
7. The dimension of the tone ring press on isn't that critical - the sensor has a wide active area. The dimensions shown in PhilD's write up are plenty close enough.
8. I had some difficulty in removing one of the bearing races. Some patience & kept working with it. I was about to break out the slide hammer & bearing puller, but was able to slowly work my way around with a small lever helping it out. Be careful you don't damage the axle tube in this area so the new bearing goes in OK.
9. Because I had a leaky seal, I bought new seals, bearings, and retainers. Now that I'm done with my swap I'll rebuild my stock axles for a good set of trail spares. That and I forgot the kit came with those already!
EDIT:
10. Here's 1 additional tip I forgot to mention that I learned from a well-respected shop & pro JK Mechanic: before installing the new axles, coat the outer sealing surface of the new axle seals (the part that contacts the axle tube) with a light coating of RTV. I'm not the originator of this tip, just the messenger, but it comes from someone who does dozens & dozens of gear changes on JK's. I can't vouch for how good it works or not.
That's it. Don't be intimidated. PhilD's instructions are very good.
I just did this today & thought I'd add a few tips for those about to try it. My seal was leaking for a while & made a holy mess out of everything on the driver's side. I used that as an opportunity to replace my axle shafts while I was in there. I used 2 full cans of Brakleen to clean it all up (both sides) plus the wheel & tire.
1. The Brake Caliper bolts & axle retaining nuts are both 18mm. Ratcheting wrench is handy here as access is tight.
2. The ABS sensor bolt is 8mm. I used a 1/4" drive socket & ratchet and a~6" extension to clear the swaybar bracketry on the driver's side.
3. The tip Charles gave on using the caliper as a slide hammer was a good one.
4. Don't forget the "Brakleen" for cleaning the greasy fingerprints off your brakes before reassembly. Especially after step 3 above!
5. The Superior Wheel Studs use a 3/4" socket to screw them in. I also used anti-sieze instead of loctite as I think they'll be plenty tight & I want to pull them back apart when I get my Spyntec fronts (to swap bolt pattern). They are 1/2-20 x 2" long.
6. Don't forget the Loctite on the Caliper bolts & ABS sensor bolt.
7. The dimension of the tone ring press on isn't that critical - the sensor has a wide active area. The dimensions shown in PhilD's write up are plenty close enough.
8. I had some difficulty in removing one of the bearing races. Some patience & kept working with it. I was about to break out the slide hammer & bearing puller, but was able to slowly work my way around with a small lever helping it out. Be careful you don't damage the axle tube in this area so the new bearing goes in OK.
9. Because I had a leaky seal, I bought new seals, bearings, and retainers. Now that I'm done with my swap I'll rebuild my stock axles for a good set of trail spares. That and I forgot the kit came with those already!
EDIT:
10. Here's 1 additional tip I forgot to mention that I learned from a well-respected shop & pro JK Mechanic: before installing the new axles, coat the outer sealing surface of the new axle seals (the part that contacts the axle tube) with a light coating of RTV. I'm not the originator of this tip, just the messenger, but it comes from someone who does dozens & dozens of gear changes on JK's. I can't vouch for how good it works or not.
That's it. Don't be intimidated. PhilD's instructions are very good.
Good additional info I never remember to make note of socket/wrench sizes.
I never remember to make note of socket/wrench sizes.
Can anyone recommend a good place to get the tone rings, plates and nuts?
Looks like I'm going to have as much in the hardware as I do in the axle shafts.
Looks like I'm going to have as much in the hardware as I do in the axle shafts.
Well since you said that I should be able to line them up and tell the difference I knew that was not the case with my shafts so I figured Rubi's must be different. ..... Run on... Oh well
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