[R33F]

Okay, I'm getting ready to install some 1310 Heavy Duty JE Reel driveshafts. I could use some advice.
I have the Full Traction 3" Econo lift and my drive shafts are starting to splatter grease after only about 2000 miles.
I spoke with Jim at JE Reel and he said adjustable upper control arms are a must. So I purchased those as well.

I am trying to put together a plan of attack for this job because niether of the parts came with any instructions.

My plan is to do the upper control arms first and setting them to stock lengths, Then install the new driveshafts and adjust the control arm accordingly to get a good pinion angle. Does this sound like a good plan?

If any of you guys have done this before, I could use some advise, any tips or tricks?

Here are a few questions I have:

1.) I know the rear pinion angle needs to be adjusted, but does the front need it as well?

2.) What is the proper angle I am looking for?

3.) Am I going to need a gear puller to change the flanges? ( the only articles I have found for a install is for the 1350's and I know you need to change the flanges.) Is this the case with the 1310 HD's?

Any help with this in appreciated. I will take photos and do a write up as I do this for anyone who needs help in the future.


By the way this is a 2 door Rubi.


Thanks

By the way Happy Thanksgiving guys!

Greg

 

[PhilD]

I'm far from an expert, but here's my 2¢...

My plan is to do the upper control arms first and setting them to stock lengths, Then install the new driveshafts and adjust the control arm accordingly to get a good pinion angle. Does this sound like a good plan?

You usually will make both upper and lower control arms longer than stock as your wheelbase will get shorter when you lift the vehicle. This will put the axles back to where they should be. I am waiting on my adjustable uppers, but will be setting the lowers to place the axles in the correct position, then adjusting the uppers to set pinion angles. If you doing just uppers then that will limit what you can adjust, which will just be the pinion angle, and not the axle position, but uppers are the best way to do that.

1.) I know the rear pinion angle needs to be adjusted, but does the front need it as well?

Yes, but the more you correct pinion angle, the worse caster will become, so you will have to find a compromise. I found that anything higher than 7.5º pinion angle will cause excessive vibration at the front. I'm currently around 6º with just under 4º caster (which is within spec). I plan on adjusting to about 5º caster once I get the uppers, maybe a little less if I can.

With only 3.5" of lift you should be able to get both pretty close.

2.) What is the proper angle I am looking for?

Here are the factory specs:

Good cancellation of U-joint operating angles is within 1º .

Operating angles less than 3º (U-joint system).

Operating angles less than 10º for constant velocity joint.

At least 1/2 of one degree continuous operating (propeller shaft) angle. On one U-joint system less than 1 1/2 degree operating angle.

With 4.5" of lift I could not get within the 3º but there is no vibration at below 7.5º, and you will be able to get much better than that.

Do not set pinion at 0º, as you want a little bit of angle to rotate the cups slightly so the grease gets moved around.

3.) Am I going to need a gear puller to change the flanges? ( the only articles I have found for a install is for the 1350's and I know you need to change the flanges.) Is this the case with the 1310 HD's?

Yes, you will be changing the flanges, I used 1310 OE's so didn't have to do that and can't help much. I think you will need to set the correct torque to rotate again, although if you measure it when pulling the flanges off it should be pretty easy to do. Although I suspect some people just torque them up tight. You should also replace the pinion nuts at least.


FWIW I replaced my UJ's with Spicer lifetime ones so I didn't have to worry about greasing them, as the ones on the double cardan were real hard to graese without pulling the shafts.

 

[R33F]

First of all,
Thanks for taking the time to answer some of my questions PhilD.:beer:
I said my post that I will only put on the adjustable upper control arms, because that is all I have right now.

The lowers will have to wait until I finish paying off the Driveshafts.:shaking:

Do you think I will be able to achieve the proper pinion angle with only the upper control arms?

I realize and totally understand what you are saying about getting the axles back where they should be. Just got to wait for some paydays to pass.

I went and purchased a angle finder today and that should help out alot.

Thanks again!

 

[PhilD]

Do you think I will be able to achieve the proper pinion angle with only the upper control arms?Yes, the uppers do a better job than the lowers for doing that as you will push the top of the axles out, as opposed to pulling the bottom in. This means you will not be shortening the wheelbase anymore.

Just got to wait for some paydays to pass.

I know that feeling...

 

[R33F]

Well,

I said screw it and went for it. It took me most of the day and I only got the rear one installed. I think it came out pretty good. I may need to adjust the angle a little, but it's smooth going down the road at 60mph.

Any thoughts on the angle guys?

 

[PhilD]

Looks good. Not a lot you can do about the t-case angle, but that's why there is a double cardan there. The pinion angle look fine. It's hard to tell from a pic, but looks like you may want to extend the upper control arms out a touch when you get them.

 

[R33F]

Thanks PhilD will do.

The upper control arms are all ready on there, I just need to adjust them a little more.
Today I crawled uder the Jeep and noticed alot of grease splatters, but think its just extra grease flying off since they are new. I cleaned it all off and will see if there is any more. I called Jim at JE Reel and he said thats what it might be. I hope that is the case.

 

[PhilD]

I called Jim at JE Reel and he said thats what it might be. I hope that is the case.

Every time you grease them the same thing will happen, it is normal.

 

[R33F]

Lastnight I noticed I am getting a little vibration when I first begin to roll.
I thought it was my imagination ,but if I let go of the stick I can see it the stick wabble a bit. It only happens in first gear for the first few seconds.
Once I get up to about 5mph. Then it goes away.

You think if adjust the angle a little more this will go away?
I'm I ruining anything by drive it to work and back? I just can't get to it till the weekend.

Thanks for you help!

 

[PhilD]

You think if adjust the angle a little more this will go away?

May do. You didn't post a pic of the front pinion angle, so I can't see how far it's off. I know if the front pinion angle goes past about 7.5º then vibration becomes very noticeable, but I doubt you are past that.

Mine feels like that a little also, but it's just not the tire lugs. You may want to just make sure 100% that is the drive shaft causing the vibration, by pulling it out and driving around and seeing if the same thing happens.

If it's the drive shaft, I suspect it is in the front shaft double cardan at the t-case. If so, there is not much you can do about that, apart from bring the transmission up a little, which will alleviate that angle some. But I'm not going to start messing with that personally..

I'm I ruining anything by drive it to work and back? I just can't get to it till the weekend.

I really doubt it, and very unlikely between now and the weekend. I've lived with a so-so pinion angle for 17k miles and no signs of any issues.

 

[R33F]

I have not installed the front yet. I ran out of time last weekend.
I hope to get it done weekend after next.

I spoke to Jim at JE Reel and he said that since I switched to a larger tire size I've changed the load on the whole thing, and that is probably what I am feeling. If I were to change my gearing I would gain that advantage back.

 

[gcg]

I have the JE Reel shafts on my 2 door. I do have a vibration at 40 to 50 mph but have mentioned that in previous posts. Regarding the vibration you feel when first starting off, I would guess that's tire lugs, as mentioned by the other poster. I have had that same sort of vibration on just about every Jeep I've owned when I was running "MT" style tires. You can often feel it when you're slowing to a stop, too.

 

[PhilD]

I do have a vibration at 40 to 50 mph

Mine did it between 50-60, really noticeable around 55. Improving the pinion angle a little pretty much all but got rid of it.

Once I get my adjustable uppers, I will reduce the pinion angle a degree or two more, and expect to have zero vibration then.

 

[redjk]

What gear puller is required to remove OE flanges (looking for a size/type)?

 

[R33F]

What gear puller is required to remove OE flanges (looking for a size/type)?

I used a 3 arm harmonic puller, It came off pretty easy. I bought it at Pepboys for like 15 bucks.

 

[R33F]

Saturday I decided to give it a little more pinion angle to see if that what was causing the small vibration I had. Turns out that the upper rear controls arms were different lengths, only by a turn or two. Once I adjusted the arms to the same lengths the vibrations went away. Imagine that?:rotflmao:

 

[redjk]

I used a 3 arm harmonic puller, It came off pretty easy. I bought it at Pepboys for like 15 bucks.

Excellent.
Thanks.

 

[rocrat]

Installed JE Reel front shaft this weekend

I installed the JE Reel front shaft on my 4" lifted four door this weekend. I used alot of the information discussed on this thread - thank you. I picked up an early production set of 1350's that used OE at the diff's and replaced the flanges at the t-case. I figured I would install just the front first and try to get it right before going to the rear. My front line was operating at a pretty severe angle so I wanted to at least get that problem solved. My lift consisted of the basic SL 4" and all the lower arms. I had adjusted the lower arms to SL specs and was happy with the ride, no vibration and 8 degrees of caster in the front. I imagine that this amount of caster was a little more then needed, but I understand the stock shafts don't telegraph vibration as much as the double cardan, they just take it and then fail at some point. My real problem was the pinky thin shaft of the zeppa at the t-case almost contacting the joint housing under normal loading. Starting out I knew I would have to give back some of the caster to keep the shaft happy. The install went fine, I shortened the front lower arms about 6 turns and gave it a try. My caster ended up at 5 degrees, I took it for a ride and had no vibration at any speeds up to 60. I still have to take it up to freeway speed sometime this week. With 5 degrees caster it is not as tight as it was with 8, it doesn't dart or drift, but feels a little light. I imagine this is the trade off for happy shafts. Good luck with the rest of your install. I will attack the rear shaft next weekend.