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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Taking a different approach than most have with this. I know the stock Infinity amp is underpowered and I'll eventually replace it, but trying to make some quality upgrades to the existing system to see if I can get some life out of the system. I'm replacing the speakers with JL Audio C2-650 components in the dash, C2-650x coaxials in the sound bar, and an Infinity Basslink in the trunk.

I will be updating this with progress as I go - as of now I've only installed the Basslink. As I said above, I took a different approach than others have. As the stock Infinity amp has a set of subwoofer speaker level outputs designed for a set frequency range to augment the dash and sound bar speakers, I will be utilizing those vice installing line output converters, running RCA's, and also running remote turn on wire. The Basslink has a handy feature where it can sense voltage across speaker wires and turn itself on - I used this to avoid having to run additional wire and have a rat's nest. This approach was incredibly simple and I'd highly recommend it.

Equipment Used:

- Infinity Basslink
- Rockford Fosgate 8AWG Power Only Amp Kit (No RCAs)
- Drill with 3/8" bit
- Dremmel tool with rotary sanding bit
- 10mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 1/4" ID Grommet (3/8" OD)
- Clear RTV
- Trim Tool
- Wire Strippers / Cutters
- Soldering Iron & solder
- Shrink tube
- Rubber weatherstripping
- GTMAT Acoustic Dampening Material

I started this installation under the hood. Instead of running the amp power line through the grommet on the driver's side and having to snake it back to the passenger side, I drilled a new 3/8" grommet hole on the the passenger's side above the battery in approximately the same location as the driver's side. I preinstalled the 1/4" grommet on the 8AWG power wire before fishing it down behind the glove box. After fishing the wire into the car, I took some clear RTV and coated the hole to avoid any water intrusion. I waited until after installing everything else to hookup the power wire to the battery to avoid shock. Final configuration was as shown below:

After finding the wire in the passenger side footwell -

I removed the two trim pieces (3 plastic tabs total) with a trim tool along the kick panel to further route the power wire to the trunk.

I pushed the wire behind the carpet below the top of the tub once past the passenger side seatbelt assembly, as shown in below image:

After getting the power wire to the back side of the roll bar, I began to work on the subwoofer speaker wires. The Basslink came with two of the speaker level input connectors (1 connector, 4 wires per). Since the subwoofer speaker wires have 4 wires for the +/- of the 2 voice coils, I ran both sets to one connector. The stock config is:

Gray/White = SUB1+
Green /White = SUB1 -
Gray/Brown = SUB2 +
Green/Brown = SUB2 -

Based on this wiring pinout, I utilized the speaker level connector with the white and gray wires and connected it the following way:

White / White -> Gray / White
White / Black -> Green / White
Gray / Gray -> Gray / Brown
Gray / Black -> Green / Brown

I lobbed off the stock subwoofer connector and threw it away, then stripped and soldered all the wires with the above configuration.

After having the power wire set and the speaker level input connector set I moved to the ground wire. I removed the passenger's side rear seltbelt from the tub using an 18mm socket. I used the Dremel tool to grind off any paint from the metal seatbelt lug, the bottom of the nut that held it in place, and where the assembly sat on the tub. As soon as I was down to bare metal, I installed the ground wire lug to the bolt between the seatbelt connector and the nut. I had to modify the ground lug by cutting the end off and effectively turning it into a spade connector to ensure it fit. The location of this is shown below:

After securing the ground wire, I routed both it and the power wire under the carpet as best possible to hide them.

Next I ran all the wires to the proper connectors on the Basslink.

Power -> +BATT
Speaker Level Connector -> REAR (Universal Interface)

Note: I still have not hooked up the power wire to the battery.

After ensuring I had proper clearances for the wires and rear seat, I mounted the Basslink using the horizontal mounts. I went with horizontal to minimize the vertical footprint, not as much for acoustics, however as long as you leave enough wire clearance you can change it's orientation based on performance, appearance, etc. I installed a bunch of rubber weatherstripping below the Basslink then put a sheet of 12" by 12" GTMAT dampening material above it. I installed (4) self-tapping screws to secure the Basslink in place (one for each leg of bracket), ensuring all four screws were secured to the removable cover. A view from above is shown below:

At this point I was pretty much done, except I needed to finally install the power wire to the battery. I took a 10mm socket, removed the battery + nut and installed the power wire lug to the terminal (refer back to the first pic). After completing this step, I set switched my Basslink to AUTO TURN ON to utilize the speaker level sense. I turned on my Jeep and what do you know - it worked! I adjusted the Gain, Crossover Frequency, and Bass Boost to what sounded good and was done. Total time was a couple hours because I work slow.

Just a quick note - if you do choose to install the Basslink in this configuration, your head unit will still control some of the bass level of the Basslink. I did not run the remote gain control due to this.

Speakers are coming in tomorrow so maybe I'll have an update on them this weekend. I've already started to cannibalize the speakers in the dash (following some tutorials) and I have the sound bar speakers out, speaker and wire adapters made, and have the sound bar sound dampened. Will probably just post pics of the final product.
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