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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here is some helpful hints if you missed it in the video:

AN fittings are a 37* flare, NOT a 45* flare like your brake lines, FYI.

AN fittings and JIC fittings are the same and can save you cash, problem is JIC fittings will sometimes not have the options a AN will and most JIC are steel. But for your info a AN6 is the same as a 3/8 JIC.

If you want a hydro assist setup to "fit well" in a JK you will need a 45* angle fitting at the rear box porting and a 90* at the front box porting. The 45* is to clear the AC pulley and the 90* is to keep the hose bend at a better angle.
By "fitting" I mean FITTING, not adapter.
This:



NOT THIS !!!!!:


Something made from a tube or a full flow design. Those short cast ones work "OK" and will be fine for a while but they induce cavitation and heat. The full flow/smooth bend fitting will work a LOT better.

The good thing is this is still a common hydraulic shop items. Just tell them you need a JIC 3/8 hose XXX long with a 45* JIC 3/8 fitting on one end and a 90* JIC 3/8 on the other, have them show you the fittings and get the lines made. If you have a tractor/boat/hydro shop close you can get this done for cheap.

Run a friggen cooler, heat kills pumps. A small cooler is better than none and a big one is better than a small one. Some guys run the "heat sink" style coolers and some run the more traditional style. I am running a plate style that is pretty dam big. Figure what works for your space available.
With me I am not screwing around and you will see :laughing:

Run a bigger reservoir if you can, more fluid runs cooler and is easier to cool.


I will post up my entire setup hopefully this weekend if the fan comes in and the new parts. Right now it is "fine" but I want it done and finished to my specs :laughing:
 

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Doc, also on my PSC system, I added a Power steering filter on the return line. cost is about $16.95 local auto parts. Looks like a black fuel filter but says PS filter on it. Good for 12000 miles it says on the box. PSC is running at about 1600 psi out of the pumps, so they say. Couldn't hurt I figured as much as it costs to buy the system. Great video! My 2 cents. Larry
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
When you figure it out let me know, as I never could find a good place to mount one :shaking:

Nice write up :smokin:
I think I may put it where the stock res is....but I have to figure out where to put the new aluminum one :laughing: Maybe the new res over the filter.


Try the fun of figuring where to stick a 6x13 x 1.5" thick plate cooler :shaking: "in front of the radit...nope, big ass trans cooler you installed is there" :laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The line on the right is an Areoquip FC 300 line with fittings. The fittings are re-usable but that line and those fittings only work with themselves. So I carry an extra 4' length of the line.
at 5-6 bucks a foot it is not cheap but it ******* rocks and is very flexable. It will bend in half the radius 1 or 2 wire hose will.


Your FIRST step in making your hydro assist run cooler is MORE MOTHERFUCKIN FLUID !!
The stock tank is too small, luckily a bigger tank will fit in the factory location.
top one is stock, bottom is a $29 aluminum from speedway motors.

If you take the factory metal tab that is connected to the radiator support and weld either some angle iron or flat to where the radius is...
sorry, look at the mount before you remove it, see how most sides are flat but that one spot next to the welded in nut is slightly concave?
ya, weld steel going DOWN from that surface and the new aluminum tank will hose clamp to it AND fit in the factory location
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I had a fun time placing a power steering cooler in my JK, my space is getting to be a premium. And YES you will need a cooler if your expect your pump to live a while.

I went with a flat plate style cooler with AN10 outputs so no way will the cooler become the restriction in the system. and I also decided to give it its own thermostat controlled fan as it would most likely NOT be located in the grill.

So the first thing I did was make a shroud for the small SPAL fan to go on it. If you fan something make a shroud, it keeps the fan from just sucking air from the same side it is mounted to.
Also DO NOT USE THOSE STUPID ZIP TIE THINGS !!!!!!! you know what I am talking about, those stupid things you stick THROUGH the radiator to attach a fan or a cooler. Do NOT use them, they suck and will eventually wear through your core.
Yes, they will, I don't care if your buddies race car uses them. They are hack, make a dam shroud and a real mount.

When making my shroud I found a scrap piece of aluminum in the garage that was exactly the right size :eek: That kicks ass!

So I used it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Painted and ready to install.

Also make sure to use a QUALITY foam between your shroud and the cooler/radiator to keep it well sealed and to keep the shroud from eventually rubbing a hole in the cores.

Home depot sells a realy nice automotive sticky back closed cell weather stripping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Last images is the overhead view of the install. first one is without the air filter or power steering filter in place to show you the layout. The next is with that installed.

I need a smaller power steering filter because that one is NOT working :shaking: it takes up too much ******* space, it filters well :laughing: but it is too big.

Before I only had the cooler behind the radiator added to the stock system, the steering box was HOT to the touch.
After with everything installed I went for the same test drive and the "fan" never came on and the box was warm but that is it. Just changing the fittings and adding more fluid to the system dropped the temp by a shit-ton
 

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