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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Running 35" MTR's on stock rubicon wheels. I'm currently at 25psi and have close to 1/2" of the outer & inner most lugs that do not appear to be wearing yet. How complete of a contact patch should I be going for? Anyone else with stock wheels and 35's..... What are you running on the street?

 

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Running 35" MTR's on stock rubicon wheels. I'm currently at 25psi and have close to 1/2" of the outer & inner most lugs that do not appear to be wearing yet. How complete of a contact patch should I be going for? Anyone else with stock wheels and 35's..... What are you running on the street?
I ran 26 psi in MTR/Ks on stock Rubicon wheels on my 2 door with hard top and semi-heavy bumpers, full-size spare, and a decent amount of crap in the back. I got dead-flat tread wear over 30k miles (with regular 5-tire rotations) before I switched 'em out for something else.

It depends a lot on weight (2 door, 4 door, soft/hard top, armor, crap you haul around, etc.).
Until or unless you do a chalk test, it's probably better to err on the high side (26-28 psi) so you don't overheat your sidewalls and wreck a tire.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. It's a fairly stock, 4 door, hardtop that's recently been lifted (3.5" Metalcloak) and running the above mentioned 35's. Winch and front bumper should go on this week, have a matching spare on the back. We'll see how I'm actually using it before I start with fenders and armor...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Mud Test

This is after running through a mud hole and driving a couple miles.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
So far so good

How are you liking the set up with the MC kit and 35s on the stock wheels? Are you running wheel spacers? I'm thinking of doing something similar set up?
Running 25psi on stock wheels with 1.5" spacers. Have a couple hundred miles on it now and I'm enjoying it. I "think" the ride is better than stock. Admittedly, I didn't have more than a 100 miles of seat time on the stock suspension to calibrate my butt. After the install it did scare me to drive it over 50mph until I replaced the steering dampener. There was no way I was able to "two finger" the wheel going 80 down the interstate. Anything over 50 required my full and undivided attention with hands at 10 & 2. Apparently I messed up the dampener with the floor jack while installing the lift. The oil drip and puddle under it's location should've been a shinning beacon of a screw up. I didn't realize how MUCH it effects control and handling. The guys at Metalcloak helped me through adjusting the tire pressure and the dampener diagnosis (first jeep, very much a rookie). I did replace it with a mopar replacement. I hope I have the need to relocate it.

Seems like a well put together kit, I enjoyed installing it, learned a lot, and became more familiar with my ride. The wife enjoys driving it and my 10 year old son has already claimed it for himself.

Haven't had a chance to wheel it yet, I have no reason to think it won't perform well.
 

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Which MTRs did you go with? LT315 /70 R17 or 35 /12.50R17. I have been thinking something similar but they both exceed the manufacturer recommended wheel width for a stock rubi (unless the 2014s are different than the 2013s). I was concerned about issues with the width when aired down or finding someone to mount them.
 

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Which MTRs did you go with? LT315 /70 R17 or 35 /12.50R17. I have been thinking something similar but they both exceed the manufacturer recommended wheel width for a stock rubi (unless the 2014s are different than the 2013s). I was concerned about issues with the width when aired down or finding someone to mount them.
With regard to the width, you can "cheat" this by using a wheel spacer.

Caveat: research the ever loving fuck out of them before purchase and use the permanent loktite on every single lug or you will risk catastrophic rapid disassembly of your tire/wheel/Jeep/driver/passengers.

Or just buy rims with the proper backspacing for the tires you want.

Same/same.
 

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With regard to the width, you can "cheat" this by using a wheel spacer.

Or just buy rims with the proper backspacing for the tires you want.

Same/same.
I understand backspacing and the need for spacers on the stock wheels. I was under the impression that the stock wheel was not wide enough based on the manufacturer recommendations to properly seat the wider tires.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I understand backspacing and the need for spacers on the stock wheels. I was under the impression that the stock wheel was not wide enough based on the manufacturer recommendations to properly seat the wider tires.
So far I've had zero issues. I'm curious to see how they behave when they're aired down for the trail? Very pleased with the ride. Drove it on the interstate 150 miles round trip yesterday, 65-70 mph at 25psi. Handles great, first jeep, first lifted vehicle, I usually DD an 07 rwd Tundra.

Which MTRs did you go with? LT315 /70 R17 or 35 /12.50R17. I have been thinking something similar but they both exceed the manufacturer recommended wheel width for a stock rubi (unless the 2014s are different than the 2013s). I was concerned about issues with the width when aired down or finding someone to mount them.
35/12.5/17 is what I went with. Local shop with multiple locations did the post-lift alignment and tire install. Not an issue for them. I DID install the wheel spacers before I took it to them. I imagine it's time for me to remove the wheels and check the spacer hardware, I don't foresee any issues.
 

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So far I've had zero issues. I'm curious to see how they behave when they're aired down for the trail? Very pleased with the ride. Drove it on the interstate 150 miles round trip yesterday, 65-70 mph at 25psi. Handles great, first jeep, first lifted vehicle, I usually DD an 07 rwd Tundra.

35/12.5/17 is what I went with. Local shop with multiple locations did the post-lift alignment and tire install. Not an issue for them. I DID install the wheel spacers before I took it to them. I imagine it's time for me to remove the wheels and check the spacer hardware, I don't foresee any issues.
Great to know, this is the exact same route was thinking, debating on 33s vs 35s, I would rather have the 35s. I had 35x12.5 MTRs on my TJ before moving to the JKU and I really liked the on and off road.
 

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Running 35" MTR's on stock rubicon wheels. I'm currently at 25psi and have close to 1/2" of the outer & inner most lugs that do not appear to be wearing yet. How complete of a contact patch should I be going for? Anyone else with stock wheels and 35's..... What are you running on the street?
Drop a little water on the pavement, drive through it and check the contact patch when it leaves a wet print. Air down 1psi each time till its the way you want it. This is how the big tire names test their tires, well, back in the day anyway.

You should be fine with 23psi or even 21. If you are concerned about safety, drive for a few miles at highway speeds and check sidewall and tread temps.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
12,000 mile update

So, after 12k miles I’m starting to see signs of uneven wear. I’ll admit that I haven’t been as regimented as I should’ve with rotation.... I may have gone past 3k miles once or twice. I believe the outside of the tire is wearing faster than the inside. From what I’ve read this could be attributed to being mounted on too narrow of a wheel. I have a shake or shimmy between 50 and 65 mph that smooths out above 70. Thoughts? Change the wheels to an 8.5” width and maybe the tires will even out?

(I’ve been working to get rid of death wobble for the last 8 months and haven’t been driving the Jeep much. I’ve replaced everything but the unit bearings and steering box on the front end. Synergy ball joints, frame and axle side track bar brackets. Metalcloak tie rod and flipped draglink. It’s been aligned by a reputable shop and had the tires balanced. I’m happy with the ride with the exception of the shake I described above.)
 

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If the shimmy you describe us what you’re referring to as death wobble then you’re lucky. That is not death wobble. A true case of death wobble will feel like each of the front tires is bouncing off the ground and only stops when you slow the Jeep to below 20 - or close to it.

What you describe sounds more like a tire imbalance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Great point, I wasn’t as clear as I could’ve been.... l THINK, I’ve managed to finally get rid of (for now) death wobble. I’m fairly confident the shake or shimmy I’m feeling is tire related. I spent a good bit of time and a few $$ working to get the Jeep sorted to take it on vacation. Ran out of time to have the tires rebalanced and/or maybe swap inside to outside and left it in the garage. (First shop didn’t want to swap them, apparently MTR’s have a “this side out” indicator)

What we’re experiencing now is nothing like the occilating, shake the vehicle apart until I coast to an almost stop madness we were experiencing.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So after two alignments and two rounds of balancing (both from different shops) the shake or shimmy is still there from 50 through 60 mph. A little better than it was after the first rebalance, certainly not death wobble. From what I’ve read and after a discussion with the last shop that balanced them, I may be as good as I’m ever going to be with the MTR’s.

(I am of the opinion that out of balance tires and wheels could contribute to death wobble, and was a contributing factor to what I’ve been chasing for almost a year. I believe I have it sorted, for now..... new tires are at the top of the Jeep “wish list”, maybe a set of Trail or Ridge Grapplers or KM3’s or KO2’s or..... let the overthinking begin. I’m also going to grab a set of 8.5”-9” wide wheels while I’m at it. Leaning towards the Method 701’s)
 
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