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Don't know 'bout them ugly-ass tailgates in your pics.

But my Million-Dollar Tailgate is documented here:


Tailgate is covered on pages 21 to 24. If'n ya can cut thru all the bullshit there's a lot of good shit in my build thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Don't know 'bout them ugly-ass tailgates in your pics.

But my Million-Dollar Tailgate is documented here:


Tailgate is covered on pages 21 to 24. If'n ya can cut thru all the bullshit there's a lot of good shit in my build thread.
Yes sir, you aren't kidding. Wealth of info that I may bring to my welder.
Two things I'll do a bit different.
1) 3rd brake light mounted under taillight / above rear bumper so I don't have to worry about running power into the tailgate
2) electronic popper to open tail gate or a recessed handle in the tail gate similar to what you see on the 1999 body style chevy silverado

Love your thread.
 

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I know these are all drop tail gate conversions but I don't understand how they're opening the tail gate if there is a soft top or roof installed.
I installed a wireless Ardurino circuit controlling a solenoid to pop the latch on mine.
20200303_145124.jpg
 

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I installed a wireless Ardurino circuit controlling a solenoid to pop the latch on mine. View attachment 364485
@KOWBOY @mud2moab how do you deal with the trunk open notification? Since we don't want to run wires to tailgate for a clean appearance with the tailgate down we are wondering if it's possible to code out the dash warning of tailgate open (when really it's shut) with Jscan tool or similar product
 

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My "trunk open notification" is when I look at it and it ain't fuckin' closed. Pretty simple system.

The wirin' for the super-sexy frenched-in third brake light is clean and simple as documented in the build thread.

My tailgate has a manual release 'cause my goal was to strip down all the bullshit electronic crap that plague jk's. My jk was stripped of the entire electrical system and wired up like a street rod with a custom dash and gauges. Really ain't much of a jk no more. Thank god.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
custom dash and gauges.
I see so that's how you got past that nanny on the gauges when the tailgate is open.
I'm wondering if we couldn't solder a diode on the wiring to trick the JK computer into thinking the tailgate is closed 24/7.
Problem is we also want to keep the factory door locking mechanism to still lock & unlock the tailgate as it does with all the doors when hitting key fob.

@mud2moab I'd really like to know more about your build since @KOWBOY went full custom. @mud2moab do you have wiring coming from the trunk over to the tailgate you made at all? We are trying to make a tailgate with no wiring leading to the tailgate but keeping the factory lock/unlock system.
 

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I pulled the wire out of the tailgate, and put a jumper in the plug, then covered it with a piece of heatshrink. It is still in the harness in the cab.
I also made a small rod with a loop that comes through the bottom of the tailgate behind the lip, for a manual release.
You only see the loop if you are looking for it.
 

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I pulled the wire out of the tailgate, and put a jumper in the plug, then covered it with a piece of heatshrink. It is still in the harness in the cab.
I also made a small rod with a loop that comes through the bottom of the tailgate behind the lip, for a manual release.
You only see the loop if you are looking for it.
Do you have a video, photos, and/or build thread I could see what you did? Sounds like I'll be following the route you took most likely.
 

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If you look very closely at the bottom of the yellow line you can see the small loop on the manual release.
I don't have any other photos. I am currently working out of the country, and can't take any to help you out.
I used a rod from the door of an old Monte Carlo. It goes in the same hole that the factory door handle latch rod used. I just measured from that hole down to the bottom of the gate, and added 1 inch for the loop.
Then drill 3/16" hole in the bottom of the gate between the seal and the lip and fish it up through and use the plastic connector to lock it on.
 

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If you look very closely at the bottom of the yellow line you can see the small loop on the manual release.
I don't have any other photos. I am currently working out of the country, and can't take any to help you out.
I used a rod from the door of an old Monte Carlo. It goes in the same hole that the factory door handle latch rod used. I just measured from that hole down to the bottom of the gate, and added 1 inch for the loop.
Then drill 3/16" hole in the bottom of the gate between the seal and the lip and fish it up through and use the plastic connector to lock it on.
You're a gentleman and a scholar.

Last question, you mentioned you put a jumper on the plug. Is that how you got the "tailgate open" notification on the gauges to stop lighting up? I am trying to think how to get ahead of this problem as we aim to fully shave the tailgate "floor" to sit flush with the trunk floor when opened.
 

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Yes it was just a short piece of 14 ga wire.
So when you say jumper you mean you grounded the connection permanently so even with the tailgate open the dash / computer always assumes the tailgate is closed?
I need to google which wire does that and exactly how to do that. Cause that is genius.
 
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