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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I went wheeling yesterday and after several hours of wheeling when the jeep was in a spot where I had to work it back and forth to get out, the warning chime that stated "HOT OIL" came on. My Jk is a 2010 that a few months ago went in for a recall and they installed the tranny/t-case fluid temp sensor and warning chime. I have never had this come up after that was installed until yesterday. The only thing I did different, for the first time I set the Superchips programmer to run in crawler mode. (BTW I was surprised how good that mode worked on the trail) I let it cool off for a few minutes and all was fine until I tried to get up a near vertical hill and after 4 minutes of working that hill it went off again. It took place in FL in 95 degree weather. Should I be concerned? Did the programmer have anything to do with the overheating? How conservative is the high temp threshold?
 

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Concerned? Yes. If you trans fuid gets to hot you will see maximum smoke and an insurance claim will follow. Those never work out in your favor even if they do pay so...

It is a known issue. I have not got around to doing this myself but it is on the list. In 4low I usually don't have trouble with it, mostly just when towing or in 4 hi is when I have higher temps.

Here are three of the write ups on it.

http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2322

http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2458

http://jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?p=392354&posted=1

Good luck man.
 

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I got the message on the road. Let it cool off but the tranny failed before I made it home. Cost 22,00.00 to fix. So yeah, get it checked out.

It sounds to me like you have somethig going on, it shouldn't have gotten that hot from wheeling. I've wheeled here in Texas in the summer and have never gotten the thing hot. So get it serviced before it cost you big bucks.
 

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Operating in a way that causes excessive torque converter slip will generate lots of heat.
Getting stuck and rocking back and forth is a good example.
Slow wheeling in 4hi can overheat the transmission, too.

If this is the first wheeling trip the warning came on, you probably won't have a problem. I would change the fluid and filter ahead of schedule, though. Not saying immediately, just sooner than the interval in the book.
Check the fluid level now, and periodically.

Install an additional transmission cooler. It's not a cure-all, but prevents overheating most of the time.
Wheel in 4lo, "D", O/D off as much as you can. This allows the transmission to get to 3rd gear, where the torque converter will lock. A locked torque converter generates a lot less heat.

The recall you had done didn't add a transmission/t-case temp sensor.
The transmission already had one from the factory.
All the recall did was make the computer give you a visual warning of an overheated automatic transmission.
 

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Yeah, mine when off the other day as well. We were doing some steady climbing from about 1100' to 6000'. I've been up this hill before with no issues. The only difference this time was that I was in D most of the time where as before the road was in worse condition so had to do multiple transistion into 4hi/lo, locked so maybe that caused the alarm not to come on. Trans cooler is definitely in the build out list now, lifetime warranty or not on the tranny.
 

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Like said earlier about o/d off and stay in 4lo.

Make sure to have your tranny serviced every 30-50k. Even though the manual calls for 60k or lifetime. While they are a decent tranny, they are not bullet proof!
 

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Operating in a way that causes excessive torque converter slip will generate lots of heat.
Getting stuck and rocking back and forth is a good example.
Slow wheeling in 4hi can overheat the transmission, too.

If this is the first wheeling trip the warning came on, you probably won't have a problem. I would change the fluid and filter ahead of schedule, though. Not saying immediately, just sooner than the interval in the book.
Check the fluid level now, and periodically.

Install an additional transmission cooler. It's not a cure-all, but prevents overheating most of the time.
Wheel in 4lo, "D", O/D off as much as you can. This allows the transmission to get to 3rd gear, where the torque converter will lock. A locked torque converter generates a lot less heat.

The recall you had done didn't add a transmission/t-case temp sensor.
The transmission already had one from the factory.
All the recall did was make the computer give you a visual warning of an overheated automatic transmission.
maybe some one can explain to me why every one is wheeling in D... that just doesnt really seam that smart. When ever i am in 4 low, i kick it down to 2nd or 1st. I have no need for 3rd gear as its all slow rock crawling. Most of the time i have it in 2nd and have never had a problem.
 

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maybe some one can explain to me why every one is wheeling in D... that just doesnt really seam that smart. When ever i am in 4 low, i kick it down to 2nd or 1st. I have no need for 3rd gear as its all slow rock crawling. Most of the time i have it in 2nd and have never had a problem.
Line 8 of my post (the one you actually quoted), should answer your questions.
Notice it says "as much as you can", and it explains why allowing the torque converter to lock is a good thing.

When I'm wheeling slowly, and the trans temp begins to rise, I can watch the temp come back down every time the transmission gets to 3rd and locks the converter. And in 4lo, it doesn't take much ground speed to make it to 3rd gear. Having overdrive off prevents it from hunting between o/d and 3rd. Hunting just serves to increase unlock time.

Keeping it in 1st or 2nd will prevent the torque converter from ever locking up.
 

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Oh
Line 8 of my post (the one you actually quoted), should answer your questions.
Notice it says "as much as you can", and it explains why allowing the torque converter to lock is a good thing.

When I'm wheeling slowly, and the trans temp begins to rise, I can watch the temp come back down every time the transmission gets to 3rd and locks the converter. And in 4lo, it doesn't take much ground speed to make it to 3rd gear. Having overdrive off prevents it from hunting between o/d and 3rd. Hunting just serves to increase unlock time.

Keeping it in 1st or 2nd will prevent the torque converter from ever locking up.
Oh, I thought by putting it in 1st or 2nd did that.
 

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This is a well known issue, Jeep is bordering on criminal negligence by not fixing this properly with adequate transmission cooling. They have already issued a TSB on this and are paying to install their own factory auxiliary cooler, BUT, only for non-North American markets. However, we've got reports on the Forum of Chrysler installing these coolers along with warranty trans replacements. One of these days someone's going to be killed in a JK fire because of this. Don't let it be you. As one of the other respondents said, install an aftermarket auxiliary transmission cooler ASAP. It will save your transmission and maybe even your Jeep. B&M, Hayden, etc. make really good kits that are a snap to install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I ordered my B&M cooler and temp gauge, the write ups are helpful, my only concern is I'm not too familiar with the cooling line I will be cutting and rerouting to the cooler. Does anyone have a good picture of what it looks like and does it indicate the direction of the oil flow?
 

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Look at the write-ups posted above, they'll all show you where the lines are. You want to tap into the stock return line, which on my JK was the one on top.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Look at the write-ups posted above, they'll all show you where the lines are. You want to tap into the stick return line, which on my JK was the one on top.
Cool! I was picturing I would be tying in by the tranny. I see on my jeep now, looks easier than what I was thinking.
 

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You just slice the rubber line in half, add a double-sided brass serrated fitting into each half and connect your lines to the auxiliary cooler. Depends upon how much junk you have to take off to remove the grill. I had to pull my Powerplant which adds a bit of PITA factor. Once you get the grill off you'll have to make some brackets, but that goes fast. Good writeup in this months JP on this, too. It's a snap, I didn't even have to add ATF. Amazing how much cooler it runs, and how much better the trans performs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You just slice the rubber line in half, add a double-sided brass serrated fitting into each half and connect your lines to the auxiliary cooler. Depends upon how much junk you have to take off to remove the grill. I had to pull my Powerplant which adds a bit of PITA factor. Once you get the grill off you'll have to make some brackets, but that goes fast. Good writeup in this months JP on this, too. It's a snap, I didn't even have to add ATF. Amazing how much cooler it runs, and how much better the trans performs.
Thanks for the help! :beer:
 

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Doesn't the hot oil warning go off at 240*F? If so, thats pretty hot isn't it? You might wanna change the fluid while your at it too.
 

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Yeah but I think ATF starts to break down when it starts getting that hot. I could be wrong though, they might have the hot oil warning set to come on sooner than that now, but thats when they used to "ding" when you got it to hot before they came out with the tsb that has the message come up on the dash now.
 

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shifting to neutral and revving the engine above idle is the letter a freind recieved from chrysler to disapate heat faster
 
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