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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Has anyone wired in a hood switch to the factory alarm?

The easy thing to do is to tap into the tailgate trigger wire and just use the switch to ground it.

But I found these Mopar instructions for the factory remote start kit. Pages 2 through 6 cover wiring a switch that is wired between ground and the TIPM.

Has anyone tried tapping into "Pin 3 (G70 circuit)" on the TIPM as indicated on page 6 in Steps 3a through 3g?

What's the difference other than you won't trigger a tailgate ajar symbol on the dash?

http://site.justforjeeps.com/guide/82211437AC.pdf



For reference, here are the Mopar part numbers ($40 + shipping from Northridge):

68067791AA Remote Start - BRACKET, Hood Switch
05026211AA Remote Start - SWITCH, Under Hood
06104368AA Remote Start - BOLT AND WASHER
06508601AA Remote Start - U-NUT


The above also comes with the switch side connector on it and two purple wires sticking out so that you can wire it in neatly.


Edit: The bracket above actually comes with holes for TWO switches so you could wire one to the alarm and the other as a hood light switch. Just order one extra switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, man. Appreciate the thought. It's a good thought. I already have a brand new one. Unused. Unkeyed. In the original Mopar box. Wanna buy it? Does not clear the Edelbrock supercharger despite original Edelbrock claims a couple of years back.

I might be able to fit it if I modify the mopar lock but never got a a round tuit.

Anyway, the hood switch is a lot cheaper @$40.
 

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Thanks, man. Appreciate the thought. It's a good thought. I already have a brand new one. Unused. Unkeyed. In the original Mopar box. Wanna buy it? Does not clear the Edelbrock supercharger despite original Edelbrock claims a couple of years back.

I might be able to fit it if I modify the mopar lock but never got a a round tuit.

Anyway, the hood switch is a lot cheaper @$40.

Sorry man, I already have one installed lol. I figured it was your aux cooler causing the hassle to what would be an easy 10 minute install on the hood lock.

The bolt hood lock is only $55 but either way, that sucks to hear because I was planning to throw in the same supercharger next year...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
but either way, that sucks to hear because I was planning to throw in the same supercharger next year...
It may fit with modification. I just have not tried. Right before Edelbrock released the kit, they were claiming that it would fit with the factory hood lock.

Curious if anyone else got this to fit without modifying the lock.

There is some play in the Edelbrock intercooler mounts but I have the intercooler shoved down as far as it can go. It's hitting the radiator support at the bottom. Maybe some trimming of that would allow you to push the IC down a little more - enough to clear the lock. It would be a tight fit and if you hit a bump, I'm thinking it might dent the top row on the intercooler.
 

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You and Asinine are the only ones I know of running this supercharger kit in Norcal.

You may want to check with him to see if he's running any hood security with his setup or maybe Hoggstatus might know since they were just working on Asinine's rig...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You and Asinine are the only ones I know of running this supercharger kit in Norcal.

You may want to check with him to see if he's running any hood security with his setup or maybe Hoggstatus might know since they were just working on Asinine's rig...
I don't remember seeing a hood lock on Asinine's jeep. I wheeled with both of them late last year and don't see one in the video (look at the end ~5:17 and you can see the front of his rig):


Jason I think built his rig and I now that he (Jason) was using some nice hood latches on builds and Asinine appears to have those. Not sure if they lock or not.
 

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Yeah I know Asinine was running factory hood latches 2 seasons ago which was the last time I saw his JK because at that time the Rugged Ridge versions that had come out wouldn't work on his year JK. Looks to be stock / similar to stock in the video you posted but not sure...

I'd be interested to see what you finally end up doing because as much as I want some extra juice under the hood, I really don't want to lose the hood lock because I've got the Spod and the Genesis Battery setup/dual Odyssey's also in there and I think it's more secure with a mechanical lock but that's just a personal preference.
 

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FYI, I took off the hood lock so the intercooler would fit. I didn't see any way both would fit.

I'm running Rugged Ridge latches. They fit and touch paint a bit, but don't do any damage. A 1/8 shim would gap it easily.
 

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On my ‘08 it had a hood pin switch at the front drivers side from the factory, it wouldn’t set off the alarm but it would not let it start so kind of a silent alarm/starter kill. Basically I tapped (soldered) a wire from it connecting it to the drivers side door pin switch. Yes it sets it off, yes it turns the dome light on when you open the hood, but I can easily slide the pin switch connector down a bit to disconnect it from the doors with while I have the hood open. It’s worked since ‘08 with no issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
An easy switch to use are door pin switches that can be found at your local parts store or on-line.

Sorry man. While that sounds like a good idea and I thought of it too, I would stick with the Mopar switch.

I actually had one of those kicking around in the electrical drawer of my tool box. Probably it was sitting there since the late 1980s from an alarm system that I either installed or uninstalled from a car.

First of all, those open switches can be unreliable due poor grounding of the switch itself or just poor operation the switch.

They are also fugly, sorry to say. Save it for your pharting Civic. >:)

But if you get one of these switches in your hand and then start looking for a good place to mount it, you will soon find that there is really no good place to mount that pin switch. Here's a shot down the hood line, right above the fender. The mounting surface for the switch does not line up with the part of the hood that comes down. You would need a switch with a very long plunger or maybe use a small rubber bump stop on the hood that comes down far enough to open the circuit.




The OEM switch and bracket are a clean install and the bracket is sturdy. The switch is sealed to keep the dirt and water out. There are two brackets, AFAIK, a two hole version and a single hole version.




BTW, I agree with you that the pin switches should be easy to find. In my case, they were not and it was just luck that I had one laying around. I wanted to go buy a new one for comparison to the old one before buying the OEM switch and nobody had them sitting on a shelf. IIRC, it was finally at Oriellys that the parts guy pulled one up that was supposedly an OEM GM part or something. Passed on it and got the Mopar bolt in option.
 
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