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I am reposting this here... i have put this up on other forums, but not everyone is a multi-forum surfer.

Ok. I pulled the grill off this morning.

I pulled some measurements as well. As it turns out, I have had a few sticks of powder coated 1/2" diameter square tubing from a Con-Ferr rack I installed on my ZJ... didnt need the floor kit.

Anyway. With the hood latched tight, there is right at 1/2" between the latch and the bottom of the upper radiator support. Soooo... with 2" of the 1/2" tubing in hand, about 2.15" poly tubing and two zipties....















No road test just yet... but I dont see why. there is no room for lifting.
As for durability, I ran some urethane vacuum tubing through the tube to prevent chafing of the zipties. This is a temprary test.. i am ofcourse hesitant to hack or drill on my JK.

Keep the pressure on DCX for a Manufacturer fix... but in the meantime, I got mine... and it cost me... I dunno... $.02 considering all this stuff has been laying around.

The way this works, guys, it fits snug. After releasing the hood bungies, I only have to give a slight press down on the front of the hood to relieve tension from the hood spring. Then I reach up in the center slat right under "JEEP" and slip the latch over and it pops up like normal.

You guys can come up with whatever ideas you want, but instead of fuming and worrying... I made mine. ;)

stay safe!
as of now, i have had no issues with it. i am still using the exact setup as pictured. two zipties ran through the tube and wrapped around the upper core support. No issues. probably not an option for those with the stainless or mech grill inserts... but at least you can get your creative juices flowing with this.
 

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Good repost, I did this mod when I went on a long trip last year. Since then, I did the grill mod and didn't have access to the latch anymore, so I made new hood latches that eliminated the rubberband.
Good thinking on this one, excellent job!!
 

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Another cheap solution.

.
I'll second this method - added these a few weeks ago and not even a hint of movement since then.
 

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I used hose clamps in place of the zip tie in the example above as Nevada deteriates plastic in accelerated time.

Someone will sell a boat load of kits when they ever come out with a full on replacement like John's modification.
 
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I used hose clamps in place of the zip tie in the example above as Nevada deteriates plastic in accelerated time.

Someone will sell a boat load of kits when they ever come out with a full on replacement like John's modification.
X2!
 

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I used hose clamps in place of the zip tie in the example above as Nevada deteriates plastic in accelerated time.

Someone will sell a boat load of kits when they ever come out with a full on replacement like John's modification.
Thanks Michael and gcg:D
I'll be at Moab next Wed. thru Sat. if anyone wants to see them closeup. I'm running Fins and Things Thursday, but the rest of the time will basically be open.
 

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Do you think that the original rubber clamp was designed to flex for off-road use?

Now with more solid brackets, maybe the hood could bend or something?
Just wondering...
 

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Do you think that the original rubber clamp was designed to flex for off-road use?
No.

Now with more solid brackets, maybe the hood could bend or something?
Just wondering...
I don't see how, there is more than enough flex in the hood to deal with body flex that may happen If it was bolted down solid it wouldn't make any difference.
 

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thought this should be brought back up
 

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looks very similiar to the $11 fix
Only better... I like how he used the hose inside the metal to make the zip tie last... Great pics too!!
 

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I never saw this until now, this guy was ahead of things a little. I just did mine, turned out great. Used some vacuum line inside the tubing to protect the zip tie. I now have enough square metal tubing laying around to do 17 JKs if anyone wants to come over and get the hood hold down done!





 
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