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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone. I just got a HID kit and it's too overwhelming for me to install. Not sure about what line to cut & what to solder and if I need to use relays or what not!

It's not a super advanced one, just this:




Any suggestions on how I could get this in!? Any shops in tampa that have experience with JKs? I know there is something about 'pulsing power' and CANBUS.

Maybe someone knows what to do or there is a really good write up that I missed!? Mostly I'm just intimidated by it and don't want to start a fire in my engine bay.

Thanks in advance!!!
 

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what lights are you upgrading?
if its for factory fogs, its easy
if thats supposed to be for your headlights, you're gonna need a lot more than that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
These are for my factory headlights! What else would I need? People with TJs run similar kits.
 

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this is not a TJ
you have canbus to deal with
first off with that kit, you're gonna lose hi beams - need a bi-xenon kit to keep hi and low

for the canbus issue, you're gonna need to add a capacitor to prevent the pulses and somewhat optionally, a diode to prevent backfeeding the computer

did you get the correct bulb style to fit your headlight housing?

sounds like you got in over your head.
 

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Stock headlight reflectors are not designed for use with HID bulbs (cutoff, pattern, etc.). You'll be blinding oncoming traffic and it's not safe. If you absolutely want to run HID headlights I recommend you do some more research and prepare your wallet for some bad news.

There's a reason HID lamps are often a $1,000+ option on luxury cars. It's not cheap to do properly.

My recommendation is you upgrade your factory headlights to better quality reflectors and bulbs (non-HID) - there are many options from Delta to Cibie (e-code lamps).

Then, get yourself some good quality HID off-road lights that you can wire separately from your headlights - place them on windshield brackets, bumper-mounted light bar, etc. You can also do the HID conversion to your fog lamps - as long as they are aimed low and you don't use them with your headlights everyday, you should be fine. The HID conversion to the fog lamps looks very similar to the setup you've got now, except the bulb is designed to fit in the stock fog lamp hole.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I got the correct bulb & this one has high & low too! It has two bulbs inside. It's pretty neat!

I found an install online for a similar kit:

http://www.vvme.com/digital-slim-h10-hid-conversion-kit-p-71.html?cPath=44_45_26

I don't know too much about capacitors and which ones to put in. That's why I was wondering if there was a pro around here. Maybe they could run it straight from the battery with relays or something.

I know about the housings. I feel like I can upgrade to those down the road if I need them. I don't like offroad lights. The way I wheel, they'll get torn off quick.

I don't have fog lamps either! They are kind of useless!
 

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you arent reading things through - the problem with the housings is that they arent designed for HIDs and blind oncoming traffic -ever been in a car with factory HIDs?
they have a sharp cutoff line on top to keep from blinding oncoming cars.
even if you are ok with that,

I still only see a regular HID bulb - so NO HI-BEAM

the kit you linked to says
"H10 SINGLE BEAM Digital Ultra Slim HID conversion kit . This is a genuine xenon HID kit that is E4 & ISO-9001:2000 Approved, NOT those cheap ones that do nothing at all."

SINGLE BEAM
as in only one beam.

if you run to the battery and use relays, you still need to the capacitors, because you will still have to use your stock headlight wiring to trip the relays, thats still a pulsed signal.

your $30 ebay purchase isn't gonna work right for ya - sorry!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
The stock housing thing isn't an issue. The lights will be primarily used for offroading.

I linked to that kit because it looks similar.

Here is what I mean by it having both High and Low.


What do you mean they won't work?! Adding a few capacitors doesn't seem like a big deal for someone that knows what they're doing!
 

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What Venom said. ^^^^

The only way you could run straight to the battery is if you don't mind using a separate switch. Bypass the steering column switch and install a switch to the dash without ignition control. Unusual, but you bypass the canbus and accomplish what you want: HID headlamps using only the kit you purchased.

The electrical system in the JKs is very different from its predecessors. There are alternatives. You can purchase Cibie or Wipac (e-code) 7" reflectors that fit the JK lamp hole. While not intended for use with HID lamps, they have a very sharp cutoff that will help reduce the brightness to oncoming traffic.
 

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well that is a little different setup

that could be wired in, still gonna have to use a relay and a capacitor on the HID side
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Cool, I figured from researching that I'd need a few more things than just the kit.

That's basically why I wanted a local shop to take care of it for me!

I think these lights will be worth putting in, they put out a much nicer & brighter light than the stock headlights! If/when I get them working, I'll take some before & after pictures.
 

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What do you mean they won't work?! Adding a few capacitors doesn't seem like a big deal for someone that knows what they're doing!
let me rephrase that, it's not gonna work very well - THE STOCK REFLECTORS SUCK!!

I did the write up on the wiring harness it's in the library on here with cap values and diode part #s - I've built a few of them.
 

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Come set it up for me, venom! I'll catch you a florida water mocassin!
caught plenty of them in the 15 years I lived there :D

just because it "can" be made to work, doesn't mean it "should" be!

"real" bixenon "kits" help out with the reflector issues by actually moving the light bulb in the housing - the light doesnt change, it just uses a relay to adjust it up and down

HIDs don't like to be turned on and off a lot, so I dunno how that is going to affect the life of your bulbs/ballasts. That's another reason the other kits leave the HID on and just aim it up and down.

I can see you're determined to do this either way - a decent stereo or car alarm shop should be able to build you the harness, there's no shortage of those in the Tampa area.
Here's the info you will need to give them.....

you need to find out if these bulbs designed to use the HID as the high or the low beam so they can be wired accordingly.

you will need a dual relay harness - one relay for hi beam, one for low- you can drive both low beams off one relay, and both high beams off the other relay
10G min wire run to the battery for pos and negative.
stock headlight wires will be used to trigger the relays

100mf capacitors across the triggers wires on both relays to overcome the pulsed power to the stock headlights with a diode on the trigger wire to prevent back feed up the trigger wires.

other than that - its a lot easier to pull the grill (6 little plastic snap deals) to remove the headlights (a couple of T15 torx screws each) to work on the lights/change bulbs - theres not much room to get your hands behind there.

oh yeah, and those cheap ballasts don't like heat!
make sure they're mounted somewhere with lots of air flow and even then, you may have problems getting the HIDs to come back on after the engine is hot and the vehicle has sat for awhile, letting the ballasts heat soak.

My original HID setup used those ballasts and I had problems with them mounted in the engine bay. Moved them under the cowl to drive my windshield lights and they work ok.

oh yeah and for what its worth, I have upgraded my lights to delta housings and had bixenon HIDs in there, when the bulbs burnt out after a year, I put Hella halogen 55w low beam/100w hi beam bulbs in there and I get more USABLE light than the HIDs made -even if its not supercool, mega awesome fast n furious blue :D
 

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I'd like to see pics before and after on a white wall from about 20-25' back. Curious as to the amount of light dispersal.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks, venom!!!!!!!!!! I'm going to try to build my own harness maybe. I've been looking at your write up, it seems so difficult!!I!

Do you know if there is a female plug that connects to the stock headlight connector? That way I don't have to cut into it!?!
 

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should be able to connect to the stock connector with regular 1/4" male spade terminals I think

I dunno, I used the plug in harness that came with my Delta lights.
Deltas use H4 bulbs so they include a harness to adapt stock harness to H4 bulbs. Since I run relays and wires to the battery anyway, I didn't need the adapter harness - so that got chopped.

The other Jeeps I've done relay harnesses for also had Deltas already so the delta adapter harnesses got used for those too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I got my HIDs wired up today.

Here is how I did the harness to make it plug and play. Used male H13 adapters so that I can just plug this into my stock wiring harness without having to cut into it. It would be just a matter of disconnecting this, and connecting my stock headlamps to revert to halogens.

I wrapped this up generously with electrical tape.



Here they are on the jeep:



I think that capacitor took care of the flicker, but I'll have to test it at night at full engine speed to make sure. I'm pretty happy with how they look so far!
 
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