[bwana]

i have a set of off road lights that i want to operate two ways
1) in parallel with my high beams.

2) on manually

So i think a dpdt switch would allow this ? these are the two switched states i need
1)off road light relay control---headlight power circuit
2)off road light relay control---12 v

am i on the right track?

 

[bwana]

sorry but i didnt see any diagram in your reply. so i made one.

when the switch is flipped to the headlight circuit, then the relay will be activated whenever the headlights are on.

when the switch is in the middle position, there will never be power to the relay

when the switch is flipped to the on position, the aux lights will always be on.

I guess a 5 amp fuse is enough to run two rigid D2 lights? they use 28 watts apiece->56 watts/12v= 4.7 amps. My drawing shows a 10 amp fuse before i made this calculation.

 

[bwana]

tnx fellas. appreciate your blessings. as for WHY i want to do this...well, it's not to be blinding people. these are basically fog lights and cornering lights. these d2 lights are the wide angle flush mount version and to be mounted flush into the stock front bumper. the mounting position will be to the outside of the 'crush cans'. there is a bit of metal bumper that can be cut away to allow the d2 to fit there. as that part of the bumper curves a bit, the lights will face a little bit away from the road center. they will also be aimed a little downward with a couple of washers under the upper screws.

when driving on curvy, unlit, country roads at night, i always feel 'tunnel vision'. having a better idea what's at the road's edge is helpful for me. the reason to slave them to the high beams is so i can easily shut them off when i see oncoming traffic. the reason to have a way to turn them on independently of the high beams is for inclement weather. when it's snowing or raining heavily, high beams are useless and actually just light up the precipitation.

the only issue i am concerned with is the distance between the front surface of the plastic bumper and the actual metal part. i guess i'll just get longer bolts to attach the face of the flush mount d2 to the supporting metal bumper. also the heat from the housing might be a concern on the plastic of the bumper since it will be in close apposition. although bdf mounts allow using the d2 in the stock location, there is more space around the housing there so it is not as close to the plastic.

hey, if i melt the bumper, then i have a good excuse to get a real one!

 

[bwana]

btw, where is the best place to tap into the high beam circuit?

 

[bwana]

and do it right with heat shrink, don't halfass it by using a scotch/crimp tap

enlighten me with a little more detail.

 

[bwana]

i was planning on using an spod (I love the acronym for: Just Empty Every Pocket). Here's what I found about the capacitor and diode from an old thread here:
The diode can only go one way. The "input" for the power is the plain end, the other has a line or a chamfer (depending on the diode) or a mark of some kind, this is (for want of a better word), the output. The input side goes to the power from the car, the output goes to the HID input.

The capacitor goes between the positive & negative on the HID input, (between the diode & the HID on the positive side.)

Instant ASCII circuit diagram
Code:
Diode
Car headlight positive ------>|---------- HID positive
|
=== Capacitor
|
Car headlight negative ------------------ HID negative


Except in my case the relay would be where the HID is in the diagram above.
1) does it matter which part of the relay gets the diode?
2) what 'strength' diode ?

Are the values posted in this thread ok for the 2013 wrangler?
http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10665