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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have a set of off road lights that i want to operate two ways
1) in parallel with my high beams.

2) on manually

So i think a dpdt switch would allow this ? these are the two switched states i need
1)off road light relay control---headlight power circuit
2)off road light relay control---12 v

am i on the right track?
 

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I think I see what you're getting at here.
Up= parallel with hi beams
middle: ALL OFF
DOWN: Just the aux lights

You might simplify this by hooking both the LOAD from your in cab switch and the wire tapped into the hibeam relay activation wire up to the 86 terminal on your relay for the aux lights. (SEE DIAGRAM) This should permit you to turn the aux lights on via switch as well as operate them in parallel with your highbeams.

The circuit described above does not account for the ability to run hi-beams WITHOUT the aux lights though. If you turn the installed switch OFF and your hibeams ON, the aux lights will still go on. Since you're tying two circuits together using only the LOAD lines from the switch, either one will activate it, but they're not completely independent of each other as you would find in something like a double pole/ double throw switch. EDIT: Duh, just reread your post and saw this is where you were headed in the first place :suicide:

Check local laws before doing this to ensure you're not walking into a shitstorm with the local LEO's. I wouldn't run this setup if you have to cover your lights as those things generate a good bit of heat - unless they're LED's - and will probably melt your covers.





 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
sorry but i didnt see any diagram in your reply. so i made one.

when the switch is flipped to the headlight circuit, then the relay will be activated whenever the headlights are on.

when the switch is in the middle position, there will never be power to the relay

when the switch is flipped to the on position, the aux lights will always be on.

I guess a 5 amp fuse is enough to run two rigid D2 lights? they use 28 watts apiece->56 watts/12v= 4.7 amps. My drawing shows a 10 amp fuse before i made this calculation.
 

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You would need a DPDT-CO switch to do that, Center position Aux Lights off, outer positions for Aux Lights on with High beams and Aux Lights Manually on at the other side. One pole connected to High beam light circuit, other pole with +12V supply (Aux, ignition or permanent whatever your desire :) ) No need for Diodes this way since the circuits are separated at the switch going to the relay
 

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Well correction you can also do it with a SPDT-CO Switch and circuits would still be separated without diodes
 

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Myself, I would just put just a switch :laughing:

You flash your high beams at me for whatever reason good or bad and I get hit with some off-road lights as well, you are getting lit up with 60 inches of Rigid LED :laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
tnx fellas. appreciate your blessings. as for WHY i want to do this...well, it's not to be blinding people. these are basically fog lights and cornering lights. these d2 lights are the wide angle flush mount version and to be mounted flush into the stock front bumper. the mounting position will be to the outside of the 'crush cans'. there is a bit of metal bumper that can be cut away to allow the d2 to fit there. as that part of the bumper curves a bit, the lights will face a little bit away from the road center. they will also be aimed a little downward with a couple of washers under the upper screws.

when driving on curvy, unlit, country roads at night, i always feel 'tunnel vision'. having a better idea what's at the road's edge is helpful for me. the reason to slave them to the high beams is so i can easily shut them off when i see oncoming traffic. the reason to have a way to turn them on independently of the high beams is for inclement weather. when it's snowing or raining heavily, high beams are useless and actually just light up the precipitation.

the only issue i am concerned with is the distance between the front surface of the plastic bumper and the actual metal part. i guess i'll just get longer bolts to attach the face of the flush mount d2 to the supporting metal bumper. also the heat from the housing might be a concern on the plastic of the bumper since it will be in close apposition. although bdf mounts allow using the d2 in the stock location, there is more space around the housing there so it is not as close to the plastic.

hey, if i melt the bumper, then i have a good excuse to get a real one!
 

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Depending on the Relay you may have to add a capacitor/diode compo to the coil side to avoid relay chatter caused by the PWM on the Highbeam circuit when the engine is running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
i was planning on using an spod (I love the acronym for: Just Empty Every Pocket). Here's what I found about the capacitor and diode from an old thread here:
The diode can only go one way. The "input" for the power is the plain end, the other has a line or a chamfer (depending on the diode) or a mark of some kind, this is (for want of a better word), the output. The input side goes to the power from the car, the output goes to the HID input.

The capacitor goes between the positive & negative on the HID input, (between the diode & the HID on the positive side.)

Instant ASCII circuit diagram
Code:
Diode
Car headlight positive ------>|---------- HID positive
|
=== Capacitor
|
Car headlight negative ------------------ HID negative


Except in my case the relay would be where the HID is in the diagram above.
1) does it matter which part of the relay gets the diode?
2) what 'strength' diode ?

Are the values posted in this thread ok for the 2013 wrangler?
http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10665
 

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Here a Diagram showing the circuit with capacitor&feedback blocking diode as well as a surge suppression diode across the coil.
 
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