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I have the rubicon electronic sway bar disconnects and i HATE that they re-engage above 18 mph and was wondering if anyone knows how to over-ride this? I have the superchips programmer but that doesn't seem to help!!

There has to be a way to over-ride this so that when I press the button IT STAYS disconnected until I tell it to re-connect! Doing fast fire roads and having the sway bar re-connect only to get jarred around and beat up then to only have to re-disconnect it again is really forcing me to either remove the entire system or find a way to over-ride it...

PLEASE HELP as I like not having to disconnect it and i have been told if i take it out and put in a currie setup the electronics crap will scream at me and have lights on going down the road.
 

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easiest thing is to get a currie antirock and an AEV pro-cal.
the antirock replaces the swaybar with one that doesnt need disconnected for off road and the pro cal will turn off the dash light.
there is no way currently to over ride the computer control of the bar short of totally redoing it and bypassing the computer - then you still have to have a pro cal to turn off the flashing sway bar light.

If the computer doesnt 'see' the e-disco, your yellow sway bar light on the dash will flash. This happens if you swap for antirock, hack the e-disco for total control or get the e-disco wet and it dies.
pro cal or trip to the dealer to get it turned off is the only way to get around the flashing light right now.
Even then, its just a flashing light, nothing else.
 

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just curious why does it matter?

If I'm going over 20 i want it connected anyway....as long as you dont touch the button it automatically disconnects again once youre below 18...
 

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I have not done this as the 18mph issue is not a problem for me. However, You could rewire the disconnect to operate with a switch and put a resistor of the correct size to simulate the load the disconnect presents to the jeeps controller.

I think jeep uses a current sinking output and it measures the current that flows to the disconnect to determine if it is on or off and if its working properly or not. With the schematic for the jeep and specifications for the disconnect it would be easy to figure out.

You would not have to energize the disconnect with that same tehnique. Just get 12V to it, I don't know if its polarity sensitive or not, easy to determine.

I'm suprised this mod as well as locker overides have not been packaged and made avaiable from one of the aftermarket parts suppliers. Might be a liability thing.
 

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umm, have you seen what all is inside the e-disco?
nothing easy about it.




the lockers are just a couple of relays - easy as pie to cheat around those.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Venom, since you have had it apart do you have any wireing schematics or know how to bypass this? I believe the computer enforced 18 MPH is in the computer and not the disco...

The disco has no idea how fast you are going, that is in the computer. I am really suprised that one of the big programmer companys haven't jumped on this!!

SUPERCHIPS, AEV, etc....someone please fix this stupid "electronic nanny" "feature"
 

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My opinion is just give the Eswaybar to venom after you fuck it up and move on to better stuff!!! That's what I did, and am running antirocks front and back. No button to worry about and it handles pretty damn good on the highway.
 

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yeah the 18MPH limit is in the computer, what I was trying to say with those pics, is its an over engineered, shit design and not gonna be easy to 'fool'.

to do it right, it would take a programmer like a superchips or pro cal that can actually interface with the OBD to change the nanny 'feature'
Even just be able to set that 18 to a different number, like 35 or 40 would handle what 99% of the people are wanting. Especially if you could allow it to work in 2WD as well.

I ended up throwing the PC board away on mine and just using a 2 position rocker switch to operate the electric motor.
Here's a thread all about hacking the e-disco, but it aint easy.
http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14449

I'm working on the 2nd generation hack using zacks old e-disco carcass that will have a little indicator light to tell when its disco'd and is a little more durable.
Hopefully have it finished up in a couple of days and in my rig.
 

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an easier hack would be to replace the whole controller/motor assembly with a small linear actuator.

All that has to happen mechanically to lock/unlock the sway bar is a little flat plate inside the housing get pushed about 1/8 of an inch. Push it, its unlocked, release it, it locks.
a Linear actuator would be the easiest way to hack it and I would use one on mine if I had a spare $100 to buy an actuator with.

but for now, I'm still working with re-doing the stock guts since its what I have
 

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Blew mine with an ARB Deluxe up front and no skid plate going through ice pools. Well, "kinda" blew it. Fried enough that it wouldnt reconnect permenently and would suddenly release in tight turns...not good. Replaced under warranty and quickly built a home-made skid with some aluminum diamond plate from Lowes to protect the "nanny" computer which was placed in the disco motor by a retard. Nevertheless, I appreciate the effort Jeep went to, but clearly they didnt use it like we do.

Im going with the JKS system when I blow this one again. Or, I will hot wire it as discribed elsewhere. $1600 bucks for a computer that gets continuously submerged? Seriously? They should at least sell the actuator alone without the whole assembly! Now there is an aftermarket idea (R) <-registered trademark! lol.
 

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IF you change out everything you will have to manually disconnect. So instead of going to all that expence, install some quick disconnect links and disconect when running at speed. Both problems solved. :)
 

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umm, have you seen what all is inside the e-disco?
nothing easy about it.
Is that a CAN Buss interface or stepper motor controller or what? I had seen some schematics that showed what looked like a simple inductive load.

Looks like its a mod I will stay away from for now. Thanks for a look into the guts on that thing.
 

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IF you change out everything you will have to manually disconnect. So instead of going to all that expence, install some quick disconnect links and disconect when running at speed. Both problems solved. :)
not true, if you swap to antirock setup, then you dont have to disconnect at all - ever
if you hack and bypass all of the computer interface then you can disco at will and it stays until you flip the switch the other way

Is that a CAN Buss interface or stepper motor controller or what? I had seen some schematics that showed what looked like a simple inductive load.

Looks like its a mod I will stay away from for now. Thanks for a look into the guts on that thing.
I'm not sure, theres no stepper motor, its a standard 540 size dc motor. Theres no end position sensors, but something controls end points and the mag brake, etc

I think in spite of the plug with a billion and 4 pins, if I recall, not very many of them are actually used.
 

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What is the cost of the Antirock set up compared to some quick disconnect links?
I just put a 4.5 long arm on and some longer quick disconnect links. The stock system is still intact to disconnect electrically or I can disconnect manually. The cost of the quick disconnect links have got to be much cheaper than the whole Antirock system.
 

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antirock is about $389
JKS manual discos are about $150

I will never go back to standard quick disconnects.
Having to fight with them to get the pins back in if you are on even slightly uneven ground, bouncing on the bumper,etc.
No thank you.

I'll either have my hacked e-disco that will auto reconnect or antirocks that dont have to disco at all.

I fought the 'quick' discos on my YJ for too many years.


What is the cost of the Antirock set up compared to some quick disconnect links?
I just put a 4.5 long arm on and some longer quick disconnect links. The stock system is still intact to disconnect electrically or I can disconnect manually. The cost of the quick disconnect links have got to be much cheaper than the whole Antirock system.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
antirock is about $389
JKS manual discos are about $150

I will never go back to standard quick disconnects.
Having to fight with them to get the pins back in if you are on even slightly uneven ground, bouncing on the bumper,etc.
No thank you.

I'll either have my hacked e-disco that will auto reconnect or antirocks that dont have to disco at all.

I fought the 'quick' discos on my YJ for too many years.
Agreed....I HATE the JKS style as i had them on two TJs over the years and jumping on the bumper, driving into a ditch, etc to get the stupid sway bar to line up with the pin is a nightmare.

I love how convenent the e-disconnect is, I just don't like it re-connecting when I am hitting dirt roads were with bumps/whoops.

Like Venom, I will try to find a hack for this e-disco or bypass the whole system and go with a currie antirock setup so i don't have to fight the things.
 

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Well I am up with a sick kid so I thought I would chime in! You guys keep fighting with that disco shit, and I will keep crawling with my antirocks!:thefinger:

The edisco is a great idea but massively imperfected.(untill Larry gets done with it). As far as quick disco's go,,,well throw them in the trash too!:beer:
 

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Honestly, I can't wait until mine goes out. After reading Venom's write up I really want to just gut mine. BTW thanks Venom for the work really good stuff. :beer:
 

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not true, if you swap to antirock setup, then you dont have to disconnect at all - ever
X2 Couldn't be happier with my Antirocks, they work great. The feel on-road is a little different to factory, but perfectly safe and you soon get used to it. Off-road they are just great, allow full flex, really help control the vehicle when going faster, and make weight transfer much more controlled.
 
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