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Discussion Starter #1
I installed a 3" lift, 5.13's, shocks, 35" tires and JE REEL 1310 w/yokes driveshafts. The problem I have is I can't get rid of a vibrations at 45-52 mph unless I get down to 1.5 degrees of caster and then it drives like crap. I've tried everthing inbetween up to 5.0 degrees and it's still there. I had both driveshafts high speed balance and they are good. Had the tires rebalance and tried moveing fronts to rear to see if it was the tires. If I remove the front driveshaft it all goes away. I know some guys are running 5+ degrees of caster witht the JE REEL shafts and I can't figure it out, like I said it's makeing me nuts. It's a daily driver and trail vehicle so I'm trying to get it the best I can. Is it possable to run a shaft up front with CV joints at both ends in a JK? Are there drawbacks to a shaft with two CV joints? At 1.5 degrees of caster I've got about 3 degrees of differance between the pinion angle and driveshaft angle. Any help would be appreciated. I'm about ready to pull the pin on haveing the front shaft reworked to a CV at both ends but for $150.00 I'd like some other input first. Thanks,
Rick
 
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Yep, mine is just the same. 3" RE lift, 35's, JE Reel drive shafts (1350s). I have the same vibration at the exact same speeds. The installer played a lot with the pinion angles trying to get rid of it and couldn't. My TJ was just the same. I spent multiple, multiple thousands of dollars on it trying to get rid of it and couldn't. So, I've just sort of gotten used to the fact that it's going to vibrate a bit. It seems that some are lucky and don't have the vibration but I haven't seen the sure fire fix yet.

One of the drawbacks I've heard regarding the twin dual cardan setup in front is that the axle end may be a bit more prone to rock damage. Apparently the dual cardan joint is more susceptible to this than the single joint. I don't know for sure that this is true but have heard it from a couple of sources.

If you find a fix please post it. I'm sure that many of us would be very appreciative.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm working on it. I know I could have the ends cut off and rotated and that would do it but that seems pretty drastic, besides I'm sure that would really make Jeep happy if I had a warranty issue. LOL I'm thinking I could fab up some sort of plate to cover most of the pinion end.
 

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Mine is the same, 4.5" lift, 1310OE shafts, if I go much above 5° on the pinion angle I get vibration at around 50 mph. I was actually playing with it over the weekend, and dialed in a touch more caster, which gives me a caster angle of about 2°, which is pretty okay for me. 1° feels dangerous, 3° feels great, and 2° is more than acceptable to me.

I moved the front axle forward a little and found I could dial in a fraction more caster, which made a difference. Also you want to make sure that cross caster is good.

With a pinion angle of 3° I would not have thought you should have any vibration, and I would have thought you'd have a better caster angle too.

Just out of interest, what is the angle at the rear? I found just a couple of degrees can introduce vibration at the rear.

The way to resolve it at the front once and for all is to cut the knuckles off and rotate them. That way you can get a perfect pinion angle and the caster you want.

If you look at the way a double cardan works and the amount of movement/play you have in it, then add that to the other end, and a slip joint in the middle, I think you'll have a real hard time keeping it balanced and running true. I don't think a dual double cardan shaft is a good idea.
 

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One way to fix this would be front hubs. That way your not turning the front driveshaft in 2wd. Correct me if I'm wrong here. The only downside is the kit is like 1100 or right around there. hope this helps a little. I wonder if Tom Woods shafts are any better.
 

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Vibs

I am running a 4" Tera Flex lift, Tom Woods 1310 drive shafts, 5* of castor and I have a very small vibriation. Does the JE Reel drive shaft replace both of the yokes for the drive shaft?

http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html

Another thing to consider..... When I had 3" coils and running stock drive shafts. Initially, I had a considerable amount of drive shaft vibration. I played with the castor but it would never diminish. I later discovered that I was off on my initial measurements centering the front axle. I corrected my error and my vibes were greatly reduced.

Hope this helps.
 

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I later discovered that I was off on my initial measurements centering the front axle. I corrected my error and my vibes were greatly reduced.
That's a good point, if the axles are not centered then you can introduce vibration that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'll try moveing the axle forward and see if that helps. I know I can get the knuckle cut I was just shying away from that and lockouts are a crazy price. I've made sure that my lengths on the arms were the same and they were good. I'm maybe being to picky, don't expect it ride like a car but I just hate vibrations. Big tires vibrateing I can accept but not the driveline. The JE REEL shafts do replace both trans yoke and pinion yoke. I've double checked my torques specs on those. I've got there rear at 1 degree of down angle. Guess I should have said it's got adjustable uppers and lowers front/rear so the back I was able to dial right in. The front is just giveing me a headace with vibrations. I wish I would have went with the Tom Woods the JE shafts are useing cheapy cam brand parts at the CV end.
 

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Vibs

Sorry, I should have been more specific in reference to centering the front axle. You are going want to make sure that the axle is centered by adjusting your track bar. If the axle is shifted to far left or right the rotational plane of the drive shaft will induce vibes.
 

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I've had some vibrations at around that exact same speed with a 3" FT lift.

Based on some advise from Phil, I took off the wheels and CAREFULLY re-seated my wheels on the lugs - making sure to actually center the wheels on the nuts as I hand-tightened them. It made a difference and I get less vibration.

You can have perfectly balanced wheels that are not put on the wheel dead center and effectively get an out-of-balance wobble.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'll give it a shot, at this point I'm grasping at straws. Are you out in Colorado? I used to live in Gunnison and I'll be out there that last week of June first week of July. Anyone want to run Pearl Pass,Taylor Pass, Cement Creek or Schofeild Pass, Lead King Basin or really anything else for that matter. Those were just a few I wanted to show my Dad but I'd be up for anything. If anyone wants to run and doesn't mind a reformed flat lander tagging along I'd sure be interested.
 
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