JKOwners Forum banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,201 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I installed a JE Reel 1350 shaft a few months back and noticed I have some rubbing on the side of the transmission. I noticed the paint worn off after a ride at Tellico and put it on a ramp to check it out. The shaft rubs the side of the transmission pan when the right front is stuffed and the left front is drooped.

My front axle is dead centered when the Jeep is level. I'm using the Poly Performance axle mounted track bar relocation bracket. I suspect this bracket is causing the axle to shift farther to the passenger side when the axle is flexed in this position. My reasoning behind this is that the bracket creates an "L" for the pivot point, but I'm not sure. The shaft is not hitting the transmission skid plate. I notched that out long ago, before I got the shaft. I also wonder if the drive shaft couldn't stand to be a smaller diameter.

Anybody seen this? I know lots of people are running the drive shaft, but I haven't heard of this problem. What are my options? Should I shift the axle over a bit, call JE Reel or even Poly Performance. Just kind of puzzled.

Notice the ground down area on the transmission pan lip. Also notice how much clearance there is when the axle is level.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
1310 2" shaft? That what I use No rubage.

Good Luck.:)
 
A

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
I noticed the same mark on my last 1310 but didn’t know where it came from (thought it was the t-case skid). I just went and looked and mine looks like it's hit it a few times it looks like I have a small oil leak on the pan. Maybe (hopefully) it’s just grease from the broken stock drive shaft I’ve been using while my last 1310 was re-built.
 
A

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
OK so now I’ve been laying under the Jeep in my robe and I’m covered in dirt but I’m fairly sure it’s grease from the shot boot on the stock DS. Phew!

Kathy's like why are you working on the Jeep in your robe :laughing::laughing:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,201 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
OK so now I’ve been laying under the Jeep in my robe and I’m covered in dirt but I’m fairly sure it’s grease from the shot boot on the stock DS. Phew!

Kathy's like why are you working on the Jeep in your robe :laughing::laughing:
Yeah, doesn't look like it's leaking to me. I'm surprised you guys are getting rubbing with the 1310. Question is, what do we do?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,158 Posts
Shifting the axle over, say a half inch for starters, was my first thought. Then spray some paint over the worn area of the shaft so you can see if it's still rubbing after your next ride.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
I've heard of a couple of problems before of running a 1350 in the front including that either the yoke or shaft at the transfercase is so large in diameter that it interferes with the transfercase shifter linkage that sits right above it. Not so sure about the transmission problem you're having. 1350 in the front is way overkill for the 3.8.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,201 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I've heard of a couple of problems before of running a 1350 in the front including that either the yoke or shaft at the transfercase is so large in diameter that it interferes with the transfercase shifter linkage that sits right above it. Not so sure about the transmission problem you're having. 1350 in the front is way overkill for the 3.8.
Yeah, I like the 1350 in the rear, but I wish I had gone with the 1310 in front. I could have saved some cash too. The thought was that I would only need one spare u joint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,201 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I wonder if lowering the t-case would help?
Can't really see how lowering it would help since the contact is on the side. I'm also not sure if shifting the axle over would help that much since it's so far from the contact point. I would seem like you would need to shift it over a bunch. I'm going to call Poly and JE Reel tomorrow and see what the pros suggest.
 
A

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Can't really see how lowering it would help since the contact is on the side.
Yeah me either but I thought I’d toss it out there. It’s weird that the wide ass stock drive shafts don’t do the same thing though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,615 Posts
J. E. Reel 1350 here with no issue's , contact Jim @ J.E. Reel, great with customer service, I had one if the first sets installed on mine by ORE.:beer:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
689 Posts
This exact same thing happened to a buddys 4 dor JK, but with STOCK SHAFTS! Apparently the Dealer was perplexed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,199 Posts
It’s weird that the wide ass stock drive shafts don’t do the same thing though.
The stock ones do rub, that is why the boots get ripped off.

I have a 1310 and it doesn't rub.

Apart from moving the axle over a little, there is not a whole lot else I can think of doing. I'd be tempted to move the rear axle over by the same amount as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,199 Posts
FWIW I do have a similar issue at the rear. The yoke contacts the RockHard4x4 gas tank skid when flexed up on the PS. I first cut the gas tank skid, but still had the problem, so extended the rear bump stops.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
592 Posts
The track bar relocation brack will contribute to pushing the driveshaft toward the transmission during articulation. It is caused by the higher roll center. We have always run 1310 drive shafts with 2" tubes and have had minimal rubbing, depends on the shock and bumpstop length too. Make sure your axle is centered and a 2" drive shaft should solve your problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,201 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Thanks Goat. I talked to Scott at JE Reel today and I think they are going to take care of me. He told me that to his knowledge the front should be 2" like the 1310, but mine is 2-1/2". He wasn't sure why. I didn't hear back from him yet, but should have an answer tomorrow.

Thanks for your help.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top