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Discussion Starter #1
So I got my 2017 Jeep JKU about 5 months ago and I've been driving around since I bought it with the smallest wheel/tire option possible, the 225/75/16 little crappers. I hate driving it with these little baby wheels on, so I decided to piece together a middle of the line lift-kit for now, that would only be used for wheeling maybe one weekend a month if that for now, until I put a more comprehensive kit together..

For my lift so far I have:

Zone Offroad 3” Lift kit containing; -Front Sway bar Disconnects
-4 Nitro Shocks
-4 Coil Springs
-Rear Extended Sway bar links
-2” Bump Stop Extensions

*Rear track bar relocation bracket (This will be replaced by an adjustable Rear Trackbar)
*Brake line relocation brackets(These will be replaced by front & rear extended steel braided brake lines)


-Front Adjustable Track Bar
-Rear Adjustable Track Bar
-Exhaust spacer kit
-Dual Steering Stabilizer
-Front & Rear Extended Steel-Braided Brake Lines

-Five 315/75/16 Yokohama Geolander M/T tires that will be mounted and balanced on 16x8 Pro Comp wheels with 4.5” backspacing

I have an install date 2-weeks from now from a reputable shop that works on Jeeps often. They will provide the correct adjustment to the track bars as well as a full alignment.
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So i've heard mixed results from shops regarding my lift build. Some say its good enough to get me started and up on those 35"s and should work for 90% daily driving and 10% wheeling. I chose the 3" lift for now to stay away from the need to replace the front and rear driveshafts for now, and I think 35"s look better on 3" or less lift. Anymore lift and I personally think you need to run 37"s to make it look right.

So I was told by one shop that I should have decent highway behavior with both the front and rear track bars. Then another shop told me that it would feel like crap and that I absolutely need to add at least front upper adjustable control arms to correct caster or it will feel crappy and flighty at highway speeds.

My question for you more experienced guys is to offer me your opinion of my set-up for what I want to use it for. And let me know honestly if there is something I NEED to add before I regret it. And let me know things I could/should add down the road that will help that may not be necessary right off the bat.

Thanks fam!

-Matt
 

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I have no experience with Zone. You will want to add some sort of correction for caster. Either Front Lower control arms or brackets.
 

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2nd on the drop brackets. I've done several Jeeps with and without drop brackets and it makes a huge difference. You do not always need adjustable track bars. On my personal JK I ran stock track bars for a long time without any issues. As long as you have track bar brackets it will be very close.

I do not have any experience with Zone either but to me they are another run of the mill lift kits vs a suspension design. I have had some very happy customers with OME and AEV.

Don't let the internet fool you. You can set up an extremely capable off-road Jeep with a 3" lift and standard length arms.
 

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The thing that really stands out is no re gear on the axles. Power and fuel economy will be out the window.

17" wheels and tires will give you more wheel choices and give you more room for bigger brakes and bigger steering link ends. At lest you choose a C rated tire that should give you a more comfortable ride and will air down better off road. Most people new to jeeps buy too stiff a tire built for ton trucks.

You don't need a dual stabilizer, just keep the factory set up and relocate it higher to avoid hits.

Zone offers cheap incomplete lifts like other Rough County, BDS, Skyjacker, and other kit companies that build more for trucks and don't do a lot of R&D for jeeps. They will give you height but ignore things like steering and provide generic shocks and coils that don't do much for the ride quality. They generally suck you in by the cheap price but most people end up replacing or spending much more money trying to get these type of lift to ride good.

There are two kinds of shops, those that slap on what is in the box and then there are the shops that will properly set up the suspension and cycle it to optimize the articulation and make sure you don't have clearance issues with links and set up the shocks and bump stops correctly. Expect to pay quite a bit more for a proper set up vs just putting on what is in the box.

At 3" of height you are going to have some flighty steering due to lack of caster as well as loosing some wheel base. Expect added bump steer due to axle shift that is caused buy the steeper orientation of the links.

A raised rear track bar bracket is better then using an adjustable rear as it raises the roll center of the jeep making it more stable both on road on off.You can still use an adjustable track bar with it but do install the raised axle side. Avoid any drop frame brackets or drop pitman arms as they lower the roll center and make the jeep feel more top heavy and tippy.

You may be able to just relocate the mount where the hard line connects to the soft line on the brakes and not have to buy new brake lines.

Front adjustable control arms or a control arm drop bracket would be recommended to help with the caster up front.

The jeep is extremely capable in its stock form and a suspension lift does very little in terms of performance and most people end up making the actual suspension worse because they don't know how to properly set it up.
Tires, lockers, and gears give you the best performance gains and lifts are really just there to allow you to fit bigger tires.

For what you are doing a simple 2.5"budget boost lift with some front drop relocation brackets, shock extensions, a raised rear axle track bar bracket, extended sway bar links, and proper bump stops is likely all you need and will perform just fine without dumping a bunch of money into it.

Good luck with the build.
 

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For what you are doing a simple 2.5"budget boost lift with some front drop relocation brackets, shock extensions, a raised rear axle track bar bracket, extended sway bar links, and proper bump stops is likely all you need and will perform just fine without dumping a bunch of money into it.

Good luck with the build.
here is a fair deal on a 2.5 that would serve you well.

http://www.jkowners.com/forum/sale-jeep-parts/363746-07-jku-rubicon-lift-ripp-cage.html
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Unfortunately all items that I have listed are already in-hand. I have them and it is what it is at this point. As I'm reading it seems the most crucial add would be at least front-lower adjustable control arms to help correct caster.

I already have the track-bars, the braided brake lines, the pointless dual stabilizer, as well as the rest of what I listed.

Although, this was definitely not meant to be the most comprehensive performance lift. I wanted to basically do a budget lift with some extras. It's definitely not a very comprehensive and performance kit and I knew that already. I basically wanted to get off my baby tires, put the 35"s on. Be able to wheel some mediocre trail-lines once a month and have tolerable/good highway behavior.

Mid-year next year my girlfriend is getting a jeep and I plan to give her my 35"s and current set-up. At that time I will have put enough aside to buy a completely comprehensive teraflex lift kit, new gears, new driveshafts, and move up to 17x9 for 37"s.
 

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If you have all that already, definitely go ahead with the Front Lowers or drop brackets. If it will end up on your girls Jeep, I would lean towards the drop brackets. This retains the factory control arm for the best vibration damping.
 

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Sounds like you are on the right track. Update this thread with how it rides on the Zone.

I've had better driving Jeeps with front control arm drop brackets and upper adjustable control arms. This will get your camber perfect.
 

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Couple comments. Everything should work fine and you have been given great advice so far.

- Synergy fixed length lower control arm are a great moderately-priced, high quality way to go for caster correction. Highly recommend.
- Ditch the adjustable rear track bar and bolt-on relocation bracket. Use the stock bar and have the shop WELD on a high quality bracket from someone reputable like Rock Krawler.

Otherwise, have fun.
 

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another +1 for AEV drop brackets, cost effective and much needed.

It was night and day when I added these on my old JK with 3" coils.

Then looking into a high steer option, Synergy is a good set up.
 
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