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688 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
For those with 2014 JK’s with the base stereo (no amp/u-connect/blue tooth/etc) and looking to upgrade. I was in your shoes recently. I did a lot of looking on the board and tried to find the best way to remove the stock speakers and stereo. I replaced the speakers and the stereo at the same time, so if you’re just replacing the speakers, some of this does not apply.

NOTE: This is a guide, not an end all to every speaker/stereo swap in a jeep.


Stereo install:
Let me start with the parts that I used on my single DIN JVC stereo install.
1. Metra 88-6511 Chry/Dodge/Jeep 07-up Dash Kit
2. PAC C2R-CHY4 Radio Replacement Interface for Chrysler
3. Metra 40-EU10 VW/BMW/Euro Car to Male Motorola vehicle antenna adapter

Tools that you will need…
1. ¼” ratchet
2. ¼” 7mm deep socket
3. ¼” extension(s)
4. Might need something to help pry a few parts of the dash. Ie….screwdriver.
5. Something to keep the bolts from walking off. (Zip lock bag is good if you don’t have a magnetic holder).

Lets get to the Install:
1. Take the steering wheel and adjust it all the way up.
2. Push the seat all the way back
3. Remove the panel under the steering wheel by just pulling it out gently.
You should be at this point.

4. Just remove the top bolts circled in red. Ignore the rest unless you are removing the drivers side speaker.
5. Above the radio, remove the holder on top of the dash (I just grabbed the center and pulled up). It will expose this bolt

6. Next, if you have power windows, remove the switches. Those of you who do not, it is just a little cubby hole. Remove it.
7. There is a bolt you need to remove (see picture). It is the bolt that the red arrow points at. DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLT CIRCLED IN YELLOW

8. You now have all the bolts out to remove the dash. Lower the steering wheel and then slowly/gently pull the dash off. Take your time since you will need to maneuver it around to pull it all the way out. When you are finished, your radio should look something like this.

9. Remove the four bolts in red.
10. Slide the stock stereo out and unplug it.
11. Remember that PAC adapter above, this is the time you determine which wiring pack you need to use. Look at the back of the radio match up the correct harness.

NOTE: I am going to assume that everyone’s stereo is going to be a little different, your install is going to go vary a little bit. Not sure if it is an industry standard now, but every color on my harness matched up to the color on my JVC wiring harness. Take your time and attach the radio’s wiring harness to the PAC.

The PAC harness has two small white tabs. One is for all the CANBUS functions and the other is for the steering wheel controls (which I didn’t use/hook up). Just make sure you install the PAC’s blue box to the correct white tab in the harness. If you don’t, you will definitely know since nothing will work. Don’t ask me how I know. :koolaid:

NOTE2: The antenna adapter. When I pulled the stock radio out, the wire left behind in the jeep had a white clip on it. The adapter does indeed clip into the harness, BUT, would not make the correct connection (ie..no AM/FM). I took the clip off (just remove the red snap fitting with a small screwdriver) and the white clip comes off. I had to push the harness and adapter together and slightly twisted. It was a very tight fit and seemed to work fine. Just verify everything works before re-installing the dash.

12. If you are not replacing speakers, the dash install is the reverse of removing it. If you are installing front speakers, re-install everything except for steps 1-3.

688 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Rear speaker replacement:

Difficulty: 1-5, 5 being professional only. 1. (If my 6 year old can do this, so can you.)


NOTE: Speakers shall not be more than 3.5” in depth.

Tools needed.
1. Screw driver/gun with a Torx 15 bit
2. Wire cutter/stripper
3. 1 bag of Poly-fill (optional but recommended)

Lets get to the install:

1. Take note the three red circles. These are the screws that need to be removed with the T15 bit.
2. Once all three are removed, the grill and speaker come down. DO NOT let the speaker hang off the wires.
3. After the stock speaker is out of the picture, I used the optional poly-fill and stuffed the sound bar.
4. Next, I spliced the factory wires and hooked up my new speakers. Which wire is which you may ask? Colors are as follows….
a. Left
i. Black/white (+)
ii. Dark green (-)
b. Right
i. Light blue (+)
ii. Light green (-)
5. Once the wires were installed on the new speaker, (I used the stock grill/cover), install the original three screws into the sound bar and you’re finished.

688 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Front Speaker Replacement:

Difficulty: Depends the setup (component vs. co-axial) and on your mechanical skills, but it should not be too difficult. Make sure you have plenty of time.


NOTE: Speakers shall not be more than 3.5” in depth.

WARNING! Do this while the weather is warm or your workplace is heated. If you do not, I can’t guarantee that your dash will be ply-able enough to pull back far enough without cracking.

Tools needed.
1. ¼” ratchet, multiple extensions, 7mm, 10mm and IIRC, 8mm shallow sockets.
2. Small flathead screw driver
3. Wire cutter/stripper

Optional items that you may want:
1. Zip lock bags or something to hold all the bolts.
2. Poly-fill to fill the stock enclosures
3. Drill bit
4. Sand paper
5. Proper blade (for trimming)

Lets get started...

DRIVERS SIDE (This is the hard side)
1. Move the seat all the way back and tilt the steering wheel all the way up.

2. There is one 7mm bolt under the dash near where the red arrow is pointing. Remove that bolt.
3. The panel under the steering wheel, gently pull it off. When you are done, you should see this.

4. Remove bolts off in red. They are 7mm.
5. Remove the bolts in yellow. IIRC, they are 10mm. Then set the plate to the side.
6. You can now pull the dash back and I set the corner where it would keep the dash away from the frame.
7. The blue circles in step 3, you can now see the bolts there. The one on the left (outboard), take all the way out. The one on the right, you can take it ¾ of the way out and be okay.

8. The red arrow, gently push with your hand. The blue arrow, gently use a small screwdriver and pry this panel open. Just put it off to the side with the rest of the interior. (It will snap into place when you want to install it.)

9. In the above picture, remove the bottom bolt and it will allow the frame work to be removed and dropped slightly so it is easier to remove the speaker enclosure later. When you’re finished with that, the other two bolts (golden in color) need to come out.
10. I don’t have a picture of it, but if you follow the speaker enclosure inboard, you will find the last screw on the bottom of the frame facing upward. That screw also needs to come out.
11. Next is getting the enclosure out. It takes turning it on all three directional axes. You will have to unclip the wiring harness to complete this step.
12. When you pull out the stock speaker, the colors are as follows.
Green (+)
Red (-)

The speaker install will vary on what speaker you use. If it’s a co-axial, it’s a mount and go. If you have something more on the line of co-axial plug and play from Kicker/Mopar, it probably will not take anywhere near as long as it did me. Anyways, take your time and think things through before drilling/cutting/trimming.

I used a component setup (Polk db series 6.5”) and I had to drill a few holes to mount the speaker. If you are doing a component set, the polks I picked up work well, but be forewarned that the tweeter was a total PITA. Hence the optional items of sandpaper and “proper blade”. I had to cut a very small amount inside the tombstone to get the tweeter to fit snug. I also sanded down any rough edges and sanded the tweeter pod a bit. Was it worth it? IMHO, yes. But I really like my music and like to play it loud. If you’re not concerned with every little note, then save yourself the headache and get the co-axials.

Install is in the reverse order.

1. Open the glove box. (see picture below) See the ends of the red line? Push there and slowly pull the glove box out.

2. Should look like the picture below. See the red circles. Those two bolts need to come out.
3. And the third/last bolt for the dash on this side

4. I didn’t take pictures of the side of the dash like I did on the driver’s side. But it’s the same thing. Remove the dash by pushing in the center gently and using a small flat screwdriver, remove it.
5. Remove the two screws holding the speaker enclosure to the dash (the gold looking screws)
6. Remove the screw on the inboard side of the speaker enclosure (facing upwards from the bottom of the frame).
7. Pull out the enclosure through the glove box area and unclip it from the harness.
8. Same thing applies here as it did the driver’s side as far as swapping the speaker out.

Re-install is in the reverse order.
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