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Discussion Starter #1
Curious what the JKCREW has experienced in their Jk builds as it applies to steering crispness, bump steer removal, wandering, and even the wheel returning to its center in a turnout. If possible, 35 tires and up please. Not hating on the 33s guys, I need a bigger lab rat in the hunt.

I love to hear it all. Even tire pressure. Yes I know it?s not a Porsche. Thanks!
 

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The Wheelin Man's Friend
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Wandering is directly related to caster. You want to get your caster somewhere in the 5.2 - 5.5* mark and the wandering should go away on a 12.50 or 13.50 tire.

Raising the track bar and drag link at the axle will help the feel of the steering tremendously. It will make it feel far less touchy, and more firm.

If you are looking for brands of steering components the list is long.

Synergy MFG
Steer Smarts YETI XD
Rock Krawler
Teraflex
Currie
Fusion 4x4
RPM Fab
and the list goes on.
 

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Bump steer is entirely a factor of the placement of your track bar ends vs. drag link ends. Most people either keep both stock, or raise 3" on the track bar and flip the drag link (although this isn't necessarily "ideal" at all lift heights, but it's pretty close and what parts are available for).

Return to center is pretty much entirely castor, given a specific power steering configuration. Stock vs. hydro assist vs. full hydro will all have very different return to center characteristics, but that's a separate design decision.

Crispness is going to be a factor of what condition your gear box, ball joints, and link ends are in (any slop will make it not feel crisp) and toe-in.

Wandering is a factor of all of the above, as well as tire pressure.


So basically, maximize your castor without killing your drive shaft (pretty limited with a stock axle housing, but get what you can get), set an appropriate toe-in, figure out what tire pressure feels good, and make sure your drag link/track bar are either flipped/3"-raised, or factory/factory. This will get you the "best" steering you can get without going into custom design work, new axle housing, etc. Also, IMO go hydro assist for the best steering feel, but that's very much an opinion and some would disagree.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well thanks River City OffRoad out of Austin, Texas. I appreciate the help. Currently on a cheap 2 inch spacer lift. Will be in the market for a quality 2.5 very soon. This gives me something to work on with the next lift.
Control Arms and drag link appear to be a must.
Thanks!
Drag link
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Bump steer is entirely a factor of the placement of your track bar ends vs. drag link ends. Most people either keep both stock, or raise 3" on the track bar and flip the drag link (although this isn't necessarily "ideal" at all lift heights, but it's pretty close and what parts are available for).

Return to center is pretty much entirely castor, given a specific power steering configuration. Stock vs. hydro assist vs. full hydro will all have very different return to center characteristics, but that's a separate design decision.

Crispness is going to be a factor of what condition your gear box, ball joints, and link ends are in (any slop will make it not feel crisp) and toe-in.

Wandering is a factor of all of the above, as well as tire pressure.


So basically, maximize your castor without killing your drive shaft (pretty limited with a stock axle housing, but get what you can get), set an appropriate toe-in, figure out what tire pressure feels good, and make sure your drag link/track bar are either flipped/3"-raised, or factory/factory. This will get you the "best" steering you can get without going into custom design work, new axle housing, etc. Also, IMO go hydro assist for the best steering feel, but that's very much an opinion and some would disagree.
Holy smokes. Thanks. Dirt.. you too. You guys have given me a lot to consider on my next lift. Hopefully I can tie all of it together on one purchase !
 

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I sure noticed more wonder when i inflated to 35 from 32 on my 2 door. Im going back to 32 because the ride was night and day.
 

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Wandering is directly related to caster. You want to get your caster somewhere in the 5.2 - 5.5* mark and the wandering should go away on a 12.50 or 13.50 tire.

Raising the track bar and drag link at the axle will help the feel of the steering tremendously. It will make it feel far less touchy, and more firm.
5.2-5.5 seems a little high, is that what 4dr's shoot for? I run mine at 4* and I've always heard that was a good target for both keep the caster in check and making sure the driveshaft doesn't have too much stress. I may have got that advice from @Kjeeper who is the 2dr JK whisperer...haha

All in all, everyone has given some great advice. I would go get your caster, toe, and alignment checked to see where your numbers are. Take a picture of what the print out says and post it up in here and we can all look at it collectively. Try going down to 32-35 psi, this helps get more surface area on the road and not riding around on bricks. Drag link/high steer kits are pricey upgrades but are fantastic. They will keep your track bar and drag link parallel with each other. Just for whatever reason don't buy a twin steering stabilizer or let anyone talk you into it, these are useless for that and mask more problems than they fix.
 
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