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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
In all the years I spent on street bikes both on and off the track, I managed to completely avoid tank slappers. That's death wobble with half the wheels on the ground,and I never ran a damper.

Well, I was having minor trouble with my steering stabilizer and pulled it to replace the stabilizer itself or just the bushings. Then I made the mistake of driving the jeep without the SS. There I was driving along thinking how well the jeep was driving and recalling the threads I had read about folks being just fine without the stabalier. And then bam! The moment I hit 50 and a minor road irregularity it came on instantly and fully.

Anyway, I of course condemned the jeep to the driveway pending investigation and remediation then read up on the issue and found planman's thread. Good stuff.

Already on the way are a synergy track bar brace and a sector shaft brace. Already have the tie rod and drag link with their tie rod ends. Not convinced that I need something other than the stock track bar. When I do the braces, I am going to go through the front end again. Hopefully no additional damage was incurred as a result of the DW.. Going to look at those track bar bushings pretty closely and the ball joints could be up for renewal. My eyeball alignment guage shows a slight toe out so a trip to the rack is in plan as well to check the eyeball guage and get an accurate caster measurement etc.

Definitely not driving without the damper again, though I might try once the upgrades are done.
 

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On my 02 GC it was 1 bad TRE that caused DW. I replaced it and 6 years later still good.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I haven't torn into mine yet to find the culprit. In my case, I'm running 37s and plan to keep it that way so replacing some of these pieces is inevitable anyway.

Just ordered the synergy track bar as well, even though my axle seems to be centered.

Could be ball joints since mine are still stock and I've had 35"+ tires for 25k miles.
 

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I haven't torn into mine yet to find the culprit. In my case, I'm running 37s and plan to keep it that way so replacing some of these pieces is inevitable anyway.

Just ordered the synergy track bar as well, even though my axle seems to be centered.

Could be ball joints since mine are still stock and I've had 35"+ tires for 25k miles.
My balljoints were garbage after 12k miles on stock tires and 3k on 37s.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My balljoints were garbage after 12k miles on stock tires and 3k on 37s.
that's the only thing I didn't order that I knew would be trash soon. :gluging:

did you do steering knuckles too? I was hoping to hold off on the whole thing until the brakes wore out as well - then knuckles, ball joints, brakes, etc.
 

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that's the only thing I didn't order that I knew would be trash soon. :gluging:

did you do steering knuckles too? I was hoping to hold off on the whole thing until the brakes wore out as well - then knuckles, ball joints, brakes, etc.
nah...just synergy ball joints. reid knuckles are a waste of money in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That's just what I did. Ball joints on the way. My whole front end will be synergy now. Sector shaft brace and track bar brace arrived today. Nice pieces. The rest due very shortly from northridge.
 

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That sucks about the DW. Check for wallowed holes while you've got things apart, that's definitely a symptom and a cause.

Interested to hear if the sector shaft brace fits properly. I've heard of a few fitment issues on the 12+, but it's a very small number. Mine is sitting in the garage still....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That sucks about the DW. Check for wallowed holes while you've got things apart, that's definitely a symptom and a cause.

Interested to hear if the sector shaft brace fits properly. I've heard of a few fitment issues on the 12+, but it's a very small number. Mine is sitting in the garage still....
The synergy parts (sector shaft brace, track bar brace and track bar, as well as the steering damper mounts) all installed quickly and easily, though it was indeed a snug fit. no issues really. Excellent build quality on the parts. I think that I read the sector shaft brace and track bar brace have had several production changes due to one thing or another and believe that I have the latest iteration.

Pristine holes and track bar bushings on the OEM bar that came out. Ball joints are toast.

DW persists. Jeep parked. Ball joints hit my doorstep on Monday and forged press from amazon hits later in the week.

with the new parts, it took more speed and more of a jolt to get the death wobble to come back but it did. I'm still sans-damper, which was obviously masking the issue. The DW also seemed a degree less violent and easier to get back under control.
 

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I suspect I'm going to get a ration of shit for this, but . . .

If you need to drive your JK before killing the DW demon, set your toe ~1/8" to 1/4" OUT - works like a charm.

I'm going to go :hide: now before the :shitstorm: kicks up.
 

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Why.. Shit ? ^^ not the first time hearing this.
 

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I suspect I'm going to get a ration of shit for this, but . . .

If you need to drive your JK before killing the DW demon, set your toe ~1/8" to 1/4" OUT - works like a charm.

I'm going to go :hide: now before the :shitstorm: kicks up.
It does scrub it off to be towed out! Not a proper fix, but a valid Oh shit option...

RK
 

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Discussion Starter #13
actually, it was toed out to start with, according to my highly accurate eyeball alignment rack. I toed it back in by eye and then measured it to check my work.

I'm in Houston this week and the ball joints landed on my doorstep yesterday so toeing it back out probably won't be necessary.
 

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I suspect I'm going to get a ration of shit for this, but . . .

If you need to drive your JK before killing the DW demon, set your toe ~1/8" to 1/4" OUT - works like a charm.

.

do we truely kill it, or just put it in a deep slumber?

that seems to be the question
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Replaced all 4 ball joints with Synergy parts.

Installed Synergy sector shaft brace, track bar brace and tack bar.

Track bar holes not ovaled out and bolts the grade 8 bolts are in great shape. track bar was set to stock length and the axle is centered with no further adjustment needed.

Rotated tires.

Went in for an alignment and found it to be in good shape.

I always set my toe by eye and the alignment confirmed that I was dead on at .19" and no toe adjustment was required.

I set up my MetalCloak control arm lengths according to the installation guide and ditched the AEV drop brackets. Caster angle was/is 5.3*L and 5.5*R so no adjustment needed there either.

I was too lazy to center the steering wheel before the alignment so they did it on the rack and charged me the $80 alignment fee. I normally do it myself so I just cost myself $80 and could have had them just check my alignment by eyeball for free and they didn't get the steering wheel centered. :pissed:

AAAAAAnnnnnyyway..... Death wobble persists unless the steering stabilizer is back on.

Each upgrade made the steering feel progressively more stable and controlled. Just the right twitch, however, will throw the jeep into a fit of rage where the only cure is coming to a near stop. The new parts do make it more controllable and somewhat subdued compared to before.

Only thing left to do is pull the control arms one by one and inspect more closely and carefully. No signs of movement or loose bolts so far, though.

Have read planman's stuff as well as black lady's thread. I don't see steering assist as a viable cure in my case.
 

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i've noticed if my heaviest balance weight and lightest balance weight are paired up at the front, it will kickstart one hell of a ride. just a thought
 

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Not saying this is you issue but 5.5 Is a bit high on caster. How much lift you have ?
How the steering box ... ? Time for hydro.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
i've noticed if my heaviest balance weight and lightest balance weight are paired up at the front, it will kickstart one hell of a ride. just a thought
The tech was saying that too and suggested balancing beads.

Not saying this is you issue but 5.5 Is a bit high on caster. How much lift you have ?
How the steering box ... ? Time for hydro.
3.5" lift. One of the other techs ither was also a jeeper and suggested going to 6 on the caster. Steering box seems

Do you have MTRs?
Yes, 37s.
 
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