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Discussion Starter #1
Introducing Stage 1 Flat Belly "Builders" Kit for Jeep JKU. This is the same kit we use on the Terremoto, just broken down into builder components.

The Kit Includes:

✅ GenRight JK Elite Rear Double Triangulated 4 Link Cross member
✅ GenRight JK Elite Front 3 Link Cross member
✅ Transmission Mount
✅ 3/8" thick 6061 T-6 Aluminum Flat Belly Skid Plate
✅ 25 Gallon Jeep JK Aluminum Auxiliary Gas Tank w/ Steel Skid Plate
✅ Factory Fuel Pump Extension Kit
�� Jeep JK (single) Gas Tank Hardware & Plumbing Kit

http://genright.com/products/jeep-jk-flat-belly-crossmember-kit-w-25-gallon-gas-tank.html





Here's a video talking about the entire Elite Suspension Kit:

Use code grchrish on our website to save 10% on any GenRight product. Excludes Closeout and Sale items.
 

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$5,4000 for that..... :surprise:

Well, it depends on what kind of value you put on your time. As I'm sure you know putting a whole new suspension under a JKU (even more so with a flat belly) takes a lot of time and effort. Fit, tack, cycle, check clearance, grind out tack, move mount, rinse, repeat, etc. Depending on how much documentation they give about mount placement on axles, shock lengths, etc. this kit should just be measure, weld, done. And the geometry has already been figured out to work well.

Is it more than I would want to spend? Yes. Is it over priced for the parts included? Yes. Is it overpriced for the parts plus the engineering time? No.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Should sell just the cross-members and transmission mount for those that don't need a 25 gallon fuel cell or a $2k skid.
We're not listing them separately but call and we will sell the parts separately. The gas tank is necessary because the suspension system will not work with a factory tank. Why not carry 25 gallons if you're already getting a new tank and there's no negative to it size wise?
 

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We're not listing them separately but call and we will sell the parts separately. The gas tank is necessary because the suspension system will not work with a factory tank. Why not carry 25 gallons if you're already getting a new tank and there's no negative to it size wise?
The GR 25 gallon tank is nice if you're driving long distance or have a thirsty motor, but if you're building to maximize clearance everywhere, that tank sits low and puts a lot of weight out back. Many of the builds that go as far as moving the tank end up doing a smaller one that's centrally located. Just saying that the kit makes some assumptions of the end user. Otherwise unique and well made products. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The GR 25 gallon tank is nice if you're driving long distance or have a thirsty motor, but if you're building to maximize clearance everywhere, that tank sits low and puts a lot of weight out back. Many of the builds that go as far as moving the tank end up doing a smaller one that's centrally located. Just saying that the kit makes some assumptions of the end user. Otherwise unique and well made products. :cool:
You can get a 20 gallon tank if you'd like. We do offer that. Tony is running this suspension in our Terremoto build and he has wheeled it all over the US without any issues with tank size or placement. In fact, right now, he's running a prototype 33 gallon tank.

It's all good though. These parts are available separately so you can pick and choose how you do your build.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So my question to Tony was, "What are the rest of the stages to this kit? How do you see people buying and using these parts to get the full kit over time?" here is his answer, word for word. If you have questions, please let me know!

Good question.
So think of it like this…
You could install Stage 1 on your JK and get the benefits of the flat belly (2" higher belly equals a 4" taller tire). You leave your axles, coil springs, shocks and existing suspension.
"LCG" anyone who has ever been off road knows this is what you want!
In most cases this is all the average guy on Dana 44's needs to do. Because as you know, that next step to go to 40's involves axles and that is where the price sky rockets.
Stage 2 would be to 4 link the rear
Stage 3 would be to coil over the rear
Stage 4 would be to 3 link the front
Stage 5 would be to coil over the front

It is not the way I would do it, but it is just a more affordable way for the average guy to do it.

FYI: this method is proven to work, as we have sold TJ kits this way for years.
 

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I'm happy to see you guys are offering these parts separate now. When i was building my jeep last November i was told that you wouldn't sell the cross members separately. That really changed up my build plans and i ended up sinking more money into something that isn't quite as good. :( Ended up going with some Artec brackets that hang far too low off the frame rails. When it's time to redo the rear end again and funds allow, i'll definitely be taking a look at the rear cross member.
 

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So my question to Tony was, "What are the rest of the stages to this kit? How do you see people buying and using these parts to get the full kit over time?" here is his answer, word for word. If you have questions, please let me know!

Good question.
So think of it like this…
You could install Stage 1 on your JK and get the benefits of the flat belly (2" higher belly equals a 4" taller tire). You leave your axles, coil springs, shocks and existing suspension.
"LCG" anyone who has ever been off road knows this is what you want!
In most cases this is all the average guy on Dana 44's needs to do. Because as you know, that next step to go to 40's involves axles and that is where the price sky rockets.
Stage 2 would be to 4 link the rear
Stage 3 would be to coil over the rear
Stage 4 would be to 3 link the front
Stage 5 would be to coil over the front

It is not the way I would do it, but it is just a more affordable way for the average guy to do it.

FYI: this method is proven to work, as we have sold TJ kits this way for years.

Can you help me understand phase 1 or when I'd need to purchase your control arms? I am running a long arm RK 3-link front and 3-link rear setup. This is great that y'all are allowing to build in stages! I fortunately can afford the entire kit but have you ever tried to sell a $16k kit to your wife...shit ain't happening haha. So stages it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Does the engine oil pan or transmission oil pan have protection with this skid system? Looks like both are open below. Is there something else that can be added to do so if not?
1) Tony has wheeled the last 4 or 5 years all over the US without any issues. His suggestion was to keep the tires on the rocks and not the oil pan. ;)

2) I know that will not be a good enough answer for everyone. We are working on additional coverage for those areas for those who desire it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Can you help me understand phase 1 or when I'd need to purchase your control arms? I am running a long arm RK 3-link front and 3-link rear setup. This is great that y'all are allowing to build in stages! I fortunately can afford the entire kit but have you ever tried to sell a $16k kit to your wife...shit ain't happening haha. So stages it is.
We'd recommend adding the arms at Stage 2 and Stage 4 respectively.
 

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We'd recommend gardening the arms at Stage 2 and Stage 4 respectively.
Thanks! So I can buy this first phase and use my RK arms? I guess I'm confused with what phase 1 is since phase 2 is triangulating the rear etc. phase 1 looks to be buy all the cross members and use stock or aftermarket control arms with the Genright control arms.

Has this kit been installed on any other axles other than Curries? Ultimate Dana 60's or Dynatracs.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks! So I can buy this first phase and use my RK arms? I guess I'm confused with what phase 1 is since phase 2 is triangulating the rear etc. phase 1 looks to be buy all the cross members and use stock or aftermarket control arms with the Genright control arms.

Has this kit been installed on any other axles other than Curries? Ultimate Dana 60's or Dynatracs.
Phase 1 is what you see in the image above. It's flattening the belly.

The kit was designed around the Currie RockJocks. They have some unique characteristics that the others don't have that allows us to get more uptravel when using them. You can use other housings but this is a builder's kit at that point and we wouldn't be able to offer much technical support if you're using other axles.
 

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1) Tony has wheeled the last 4 or 5 years all over the US without any issues. His suggestion was to keep the tires on the rocks and not the oil pan. ;)

2) I know that will not be a good enough answer for everyone. We are working on additional coverage for those areas for those who desire it.
Thank you. You can tell Tony that while that is the goal, stuff happens and I appreciate y'all looking to make your product even better. Had to recently leave a buddy's Jeep (LJ on 40s) on the trail overnight to go get a trans pan 4hrs away(2hr each way) and replace the pan the next day on Coyote Canyon in Colorado after he punctured his pan on a rock he slipped into.
 
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