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Discussion Starter #1
Long story short....

In the past I removed my gauge cluster without disconnecting the negative battery terminal :homersimpson:

After reinstalling it, my Speedo, Tach, Fuel & Temp gauges don't work anymore, but the odometer does (with outside temp).
All of the other warning lights come on when I first start up, so they seem to work too.

Questions:
  1. Have I fried the gauges?
  2. I checked the Fuse Sticky thread and can't find a fuse listed for the gauges... is there one?
  3. What other things can I do/check?

:beer:
 

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What prompted you to do this?

I ask cause I wonder about possibly taking it in for warranty. Playing dumb and getting it fixed.

Multimeter.

Check voltage @ battery might be a start. I read on that other forum that a really low battery can cause many problems. Many seemed like they were unrelated but new battery fixed problem.

Verify all connections.

All cables were in fact connected. Make sure no cables were pinched, split, each wire is secured in the plug. Pins not bent for male to female connections and are making good contact. Plugs are connected the correct way (no mismatch if thats possible).

I have never taken the dash apart but I did do a lot of troubleshooting with other electronics. Not sure if you tried any of this as you don't indicate what you have done to try and resolve minus fuses...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I won't be able to cover it under warranty. Cable, connections and battery are fine.

Anyone know the correct fuse to check?

Any other suggestions?
 

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Coonasian
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I agree, I would try disconnecting the negative terminal for 10 minutes. Hope you get it sorted soon!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I tried disconnecting the battery, but it was only disconnected for about 3-5 mins...... I didn't realize that the amount of time made a difference.

As for the ECU, I never touched anything near it, but I'll check it out anyways when I go out to disconnect the battery again.

Thanks for the suggestions and I'll update the situation soon.
 

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I have heard (can anyone verify?) that if you disconnect the + and- cables and touch them together it helps to drain the capacitors or whatever. So that might help cut the wait time.
Here's hoping it goes well, really looking fwd to seeing your Punisher built. :beer:
 

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Coonasian
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I understand that the waiting time is to allow stored energy (caps) to discharge but I have never thought about touching the leads. I don't personally believe I would do that. I can use 10 minutes to drink a beer! ;)
 

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Well after googling and spending some time reading another forum it seems one other fella had this problem and he had to replace the TIPM.

I know this is probably not what you want to hear but you may be stuck if no other options pan out.

One other suggestion was to check your grounds on the kick panel. TJ owners have had this problem apperantly.

Good luck bro, hope you figure it out...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If it was the TIPM, wouldn't I be experiencing other electrical problems as well? ..... other than the gauge cluster that I removed?
 

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If it was the TIPM, wouldn't I be experiencing other electrical problems as well? ..... other than the gauge cluster that I removed?
Do you think it's not recognizing the cluster? I remember reading in the manual that a salvage cluster won't work because it's vin-specific... but that shouldn't apply since it's the same one.
 

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I tried disconnecting the battery, but it was only disconnected for about 3-5 mins...... I didn't realize that the amount of time made a difference.
It doesn't you really only need a few seconds. I generally go with about 30 seconds.

So it's just the analog gauges not registering? Could be a CAN link issue or the TIPM since that's where it all comes from. Have you tried these procedures for checking the cluster out and looking for codes?

http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write...le-codes-dtc-how-to-check-them-what-they-mean

ACTUATOR TEST
The instrument cluster actuator test will put the instrument cluster into its self-diagnostic mode. In this mode the instrument cluster can perform a self-diagnostic test that will confirm that the instrument cluster circuitry, the gauges and the indicators are capable of operating as designed. During the actuator test the instrument cluster circuitry will position each of the gauge needles at various calibration points, illuminate each of the segments in the Vacuum-Fluorescent Display (VFD) units, and turn all of the indicators ON and OFF again.

Successful completion of the actuator test will confirm that the instrument cluster is operational. However, there may still be a problem with the CAN or LIN data bus, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM), the Controller Antilock Brake (CAB), the All-Wheel Drive Control Module (AWDCM), the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC), the compass module, the Sentry Key REmote Entry Module (SKREEM) (also known as the Wireless Control Module/WCM), or the inputs to one of these electronic control modules. Use a diagnostic scan tool to diagnose these components. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.


1. Begin the test with the ignition switch in the OFF position.
2. Depress the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
3. While still holding the odometer/trip odometer switch button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the ON position, but do not start the engine.
4. Release the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
5. The instrument cluster will simultaneously begin to illuminate all of the operational segments in the VFD units, and perform a bulb check of each operational LED indicator. The VFD segments and LED indicators remain illuminated as each gauge needle is swept to several calibration points and back. If a VFD segment or an LED indicator fails to illuminate, or if a gauge needle fails to sweep through the calibration points and back during this test, the instrument cluster must be replaced.
6. The actuator test is now completed. The instrument cluster will automatically exit the self-diagnostic mode and return to normal operation at the completion of the test. The actuator test will be aborted if the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, or if an electronic vehicle speed message indicating that the vehicle is moving is received over the CAN data bus during the test.
7. Go back to STEP 1 to repeat the test, if necessary.
 

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If it was the TIPM, wouldn't I be experiencing other electrical problems as well? ..... other than the gauge cluster that I removed?
I don't know that to be true or false, just found that info when I was googling answers for you. Problem seemed similar in nature to yours and solution was replace TIPM???

When my airbag light went on they did tell me that a module had lost it's VIN number. They flashed it or something and then my dash light went out. All is happy now, maybe Gold Knight is on to something?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Tried this last night and had no codes.


So it's just the analog gauges not registering? Could be a CAN link issue or the TIPM since that's where it all comes from. Have you tried these procedures for checking the cluster out and looking for codes?
Wow.... that "Actuator Test" was just what I needed. The only gauge that moved was the RPM and now it looks like it's stuck on 6000. At the end of the diagnostic it gave a code H65535, which after searching around doesn't seem to mean anything important. I found one site that stated that 65535 was the highest number the ECU could register.

So it looks like I'll have to figure out how to test the CAN link and TIPM. Thanks for all the help thus far :beer:
 

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Tried this last night and had no codes.




Wow.... that "Actuator Test" was just what I needed. The only gauge that moved was the RPM and now it looks like it's stuck on 6000. At the end of the diagnostic it gave a code H65535, which after searching around doesn't seem to mean anything important. I found one site that stated that 65535 was the highest number the ECU could register.

So it looks like I'll have to figure out how to test the CAN link and TIPM. Thanks for all the help thus far :beer:
Well the CAN link and TIPM should NOT affect the actuator test. Sounds like you toasted something in the IPC.

65535 = $FFFF, $F = %1111 or decimal 16. Usually when flash is erased it's set to all $Fs. Could be as simple as corrupt flash or ram in the IPC and maybe it can be just reprogrammed.

Replacing the IPC is a bit trickier as it HAS to be done at the dealer to prevent you from replacing an IPC to lie about mileage.
 

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Tried this last night and had no codes.
Good news and bad news. That function that is supposed to read codes does not work 100%. Found out on a buddy's Jeep he had some ABS codes he was able to read with his superchips but the IPC did not report them out so I am thinking it maybe only reads OBD codes and does not read body codes. So you might have better luck with something else reading the codes (not an OBD code reader, you'll need something more chrysler specific).
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Now it's really messed up.

ARRRRRRRRRRRR :pissed:

Well I went to use my Jeep today for the first time since I did the "Actuator Test" a few nights ago and now everything is fk'd up. When I turn the key to start the engine all the lights come on, as well as a warning buzzer. The buzzer goes on and off for a few minutes.

I'm able to start the Jeep, but with the following problems:
  • "No Bus" warning on dash & all the warning lights are on.
  • Windshield wipers are on bust and won't turn off.
  • No windshield washer sprayer
  • No Signal Lights.... but brakes, hazards & headlights work.
  • Radio/CD works, as does the odometer.
 

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  • "No Bus" warning on dash & all the warning lights are on.
  • Windshield wipers are on bust and won't turn off.
  • No windshield washer sprayer
  • No Signal Lights....
These all go through the IPC before going over the CAN link (the bus) to the TIPM. Brakes and hazards have a direct connection to the TIPM. Not sure what to say about the headlights. You mean they turn on via the multi finction switch or they are working as daytime running lamps or keyless entry lighting? I say that because they go through the IPC as well from the multifunction switch to turn them on, but if its just the daytime running lamps then that makes sense.

There is either something wrong with the IPC completely or you have the wires to the IPC messed up.
 
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