yes, always, unless you like fires that is :laughing:
and seeing as you will be adding more electrical stuff later on, now is a good time to add an additional fuse block under the hood for these accesories. Get one from a boat place or whatever, just not one of the crap ones from autozone.
It will make life easier in the long run and keep under the hood clean/neat.
Thats just 1 bulb. Double it for 2 bulbs and you get around 25 amps. I say around because we don't know if the bulbs were rated at 12 volts or at the 13.8 volts they frequently run at. If they were rated at 150 watts at 12 volts then they will use 12.5 amps at 12 volts. However, if you feed the same bulb 13.8 volts it will use around 14.4 amps an put out around 198 watts. These numbers are not exact because of rounding and the lamps voltage/current curve probably isn't strictly linear.
The point here is that because we're uncertain of the actual ratings, circuit components have to be somewhat oversized. Realistically, this circuit could easily draw 29 amps. Yes there are switches out there that are rated at 30 amps maximum. Too close for my comfort. This circuit will definitely need a relay to be safe. If it were me, I would size the relay, wire, and fuse for 40 amps. The additional benefit of using a relay is that you can use almost any switch you want to turn on the relay.
Edit: Try a 30 amp fuse. If it lasts for 10 minutes at full load with at least 2000 engine RPM you should be good to go. Feel the fuse and see if its hot. If it is too hot to touch you're on the verge of blowing it so switch to the 40. Just don't go above the 40 because the relay and wiring aren't sized for it.
Hey Dr.Dirty...you will not have this problem!!!! And you know why!
More important than a "meltdown" like the picture is that you want to keep your accessories electrics separate from and CANBus system wires as possible.
I'm looking for help wiring an on / off / on switch to control several spod switches, with the idea that one on toggles off the highbeams and the other on is just 'on'. Thus I can either control the lights on those switches off my highs (aka for night highway driving) or I can turn them on/off...
This is starting to drive me crazy. Headlight randomly flicker and die only to work again hours or days later.
I was told this is common, and to disconnect and reconnect the battery. I did it and it worked fine for weeks. Then flicker and dead again.
What’s the real fix?
First post I apologies if this posted elsewhere on this forum:
Issue: when starting the vehicle the headlights flashed 4-5 times in sequential increments and cut off and never come back on. Same issue every time I would start the vehicle.
Research on numerous platforms identified the TIPM as...
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Hi ya'll, bought an RHB radio and some associated uconnect parts to replace the base model 2012 stock RES that stopped working. The seller was gracious enough to help out with the antitheft code, which made the process much easier. However, they did a hack job on the Uconnect and bluetooth mic...
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