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I have 2 Rotopax Fuelpax gas cans in a carrier mounted to rear door hinge. They bulge significantly with altitude and temperate change. Im worried they will crack or burst. I am at every stop im loosening the caps to equalize.

What do you think about drilling a small 1/16" hole at the top and covering with Gorilla tape to let it self vent? Or do you have other solutions for auto venting? thanks!
 

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First, those things are really, really tough. I doubt you'll burst one.

Second, what about fitting them with a bolt-on style tire stem, fitted with a deflator? That should keep it from just leaking out, but under too much pressure it would automatically vent a little.

https://www.amazon.com/VTR-TR-416-S-Outer-Mount-Metal/dp/B01BRVCQ7K/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=bolt+on+tire+stem&qid=1574110341&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Towever-Deflators-Accessories-Adjustable-Motorcycle/dp/B01GYPO76M/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=tire+deflator&qid=1574110353&sr=8-17
 
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Random Dude
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Here's how I did bidirectional auto-venting on a steel jerry can, would also work on a plastic container:

<snip>


If I could have gotten another can like my faithful Blitz can above, these two widgets would have been sunk into the can lid - easy, simple, transferrable.
In my new gas can format, this is the location currently winning the race in my head for perfect placement. One is pressure relief, one vacuum relief.


<snip>

Here's an impromptu exploded view of these pressure/vacuum relief valves. Ball position above or below spring determines which type of valve it is.
Fully adjustable - plan is to adjust each to a level that prevents can distortion while minimizing the amount of traffic through the valves.


I have the carrying system for the new can roughed out in my head, but haven't gotten serious about prototyping it yet.
Rough plan is to make a cradle / cage the can slides into from the back, with a rear / top strap hinged at the bottom and locking on top.


To finish the Jerry can holder, I took a scrap of 1/8" UHMW and lined the top. It's kinda' like a gas can "holster" now - I dig it.


It's a bit freaky drilling a 3/4" hole in a gas can that's airtight, but it had to be done to accommodate this 1/4" NPT tank bulkhead fitting.

SHOP TIP:^^^ Put a chunk of fuel hose around a retrieval magnet, and it's only "sticky" on the end - no more sticking to every wall along the way.


Bulkhead fitting in place. It has a nitrile o-ring inside the tank, captive in a groove in the head of the fitting so it won't squish out.
Out of pure overkill / paranoia, I put an Earl's sealing washer on the outside and topped it with a washer before cranking down the nut.



Adjusted the pressure relief valve to 9.5 PSI (GAGES NOT CALIBRATED TO NIST STANDARDS - DON'T SUE ME IF YOU BLOW YOUR FARGIN' NUTS OFF).
I went with 9.5 PSI because the can started getting a little bulgy at 10 PSI, and gasoline has a vapor pressure of ~7 PSI at 100 degrees F.
This pressure relief setting should keep the can from venting reasonable gasoline vapor pressure, but will not let the can go all Fat Albert on me.


Vacuum relief valve set to open at 4.5" Hg. Gas can started to go all Sarah Jessica Parker at 5" Hg. I used my Moeller fluid extractor to generate vacuum.


Here's the finished assembly: a Jerry can that doesn't need to be opened unless you want to add or remove fuel <-- I really dig this feature!
One side of the handle is blocked so this vent design would suck for fire-bucket-brigade style passing, but I'm OK with that one particular drawback.


Most importantly, all the bullshit that I added to the Jerry can is within the profile envelope of the can. When it's "holstered", it's unbreakable . . . -ish.


<snip>

If you just want automatic pressure venting, Guruman's suggestion costs less time, money, weight, & bulk.

EDIT: Be sure to use seals compatible with gas and ethanol <-- tire-related products may need o-rings replaced.
 

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Nice work @ExWrench. I love the can holster idea...
 
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