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I'm running a Full Traction front track bar with my RE 3.5" lift. Twice now I've had a problem develop. The first time was at Anza Borrego - on the way there I started hearing a click or clunk every time the front end raised or lowered. I tracked it down to the front track bar bushing at the chassis end. Whenever that bushing would try to rotate (due to raising or lowering the front end), it would stick and then suddenly rotate, causing the noise.

As a temporary fix, I drowned it in WD-40, which worked until I got back home. I had it looked at and they took the bushing apart and greased it (it's delrin or some sort of other hard plastic with an inner metal sleeve) and all was well. Until today, that is. Same thing started up again out on the trail. I checked it out when I got back home and it's the same problem.

Has anyone else experienced this. Any thoughts on how to cure it. I'm at the point of considering another track bar. If I go that route, any suggestions on a good one. I've tried the RE that came with the lift but it is pretty light weight. The FT is heavy duty but not working very well for me. Whatever I get needs to be heavy duty, adjustable and bolt directly to the factory mountings - I've had the bracket at the axle gusseted and I don't think any relocation bracket will work with it. I also think having one of the bushing be somewhat soft is better than both hard.

I appreciate any help.
 

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From what I have seen, you are just going to have to pull the track bar from time to time and take the joint apart and grease it with lithium grease. I'm thinking you could probably put a zerk in the end so you could grease it?
 

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Zerk fitting would work well. What I understand is this is binding in the bushing and in time it will wear out. Talk to the manufacturer as they might deem it a defect or have a replacement. I like the FT track bar because it's heavy duty so I'll be disappointed if this is happening on others.

I can't recall but is there a washer that is supose to be at the end of the bushing?
 
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Zerk fitting would work well. What I understand is this is binding in the bushing and in time it will wear out. Talk to the manufacturer as they might deem it a defect or have a replacement. I like the FT track bar because it's heavy duty so I'll be disappointed if this is happening on others.

I can't recall but is there a washer that is supose to be at the end of the bushing?
I don't believe there is a washer. When assembled, the "ears" of the bracket are held tight against the inner metal sleeve, so it sets the spacing between them. The two flat faces of the bushing then mate with the ears with a little bit of clearance. In other words, the metal sleeve should stick out just a tiny bit beyond each face of the bushing.

I agree that the FT track bar is quite heavy duty. I'm not sure that I think the design of this particular bushing is all that great, though. Maybe a zerk would work. I'll try talking with them but I haven't gotten particulary good results when talking to them in the past.
 

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Just a thought why didn't you go with the RE track bars. These seem to be fine since I have heard of the grease problem with the full traction ones.
 
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Just a thought why didn't you go with the RE track bars. These seem to be fine since I have heard of the grease problem with the full traction ones.
I have the RE track bar that came with the lift. It would probably be fine but it is pretty light weight and has a fairly large bend in it that further reduces the strength. After my experience with the FT bar, it seems like a bit of a toss up. I really think the FT design is flawed. If you look at the bushing that's giving me the problems (at the chassis end), it is designed to only allow rotation about the centerline of the bolt. However, when the axle moves up and down, it also moves slightly forward and backwards which pushes the axle end of the track bar forwards and backwards. The bushing does not allow that motion. If it were rubber or some soft material, it would comply with that motion. Being hard plastic, it really doesn't comply very well. I would think this would either put stresses on the attachment bracket or oval out the bushing a bit. These aren't large motions, but it just doesn't seem like the best design to me. And it's making all this noise. I don't want to have to take the thing apart every couple months and regrease it. If that's the case, it's going the way of the RE.
 

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Can you drill a hole in it and put a zirc in?

I'm not familiar with the RE track bar, but as long as it's got a flexible joint like a Heim at one end it should be okay.
 
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Can you drill a hole in it and put a zirc in?

I'm not familiar with the RE track bar, but as long as it's got a flexible joint like a Heim at one end it should be okay.
It may be possible to add the zirc - I haven't checked very thoroughly yet.

The RE track bar has a heim joint at one end and an polyurethane at the other, which is fine.

The FT has a heim joint at the axle end but a delrin (or some other hard plastic) at the chassis end. I think this is a bit of a problem since it doesn't really want to let the axle end of the track bar move forwards and backwards as the axle moves up and down, at least not by design - it only allows for rotation about the attachment bolt. The heim joint will allow the proper motion at the axle end but it won't do a thing for the chassis end. I'm sure that, over time, the bushing will simply oval out to allow for the small forward and backward motion, but it just doesn't seem quite right. A rubber or polyurethane bushing there would allow for compliance without any issues.
 

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Just put the RE bar on and call it good then. If you bend it RE will back their product. I am against full traction because of their squeakyness. Sure their arms work good and the springs ride good but the track bar nonsense is horse shat. Also their customer service sucks :thefinger::thefinger:
 
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Just put the RE bar on and call it good then. If you bend it RE will back their product. I am against full traction because of their squeakyness. Sure their arms work good and the springs ride good but the track bar nonsense is horse shat. Also their customer service sucks :thefinger::thefinger:
I pretty much agree. I don't really care that much for them. When I have called their customer service in the past, it's taken a week or more for them to get back, even after repeated calls. And the information wasn't very helpful. I think the only thing they have going for them on the track bar is that it is very heavy wall tubing. One of my reasons for switching from the RE bar was that it hit my Riddler diff cover and I thought the outward bend of the FT would clear it, but it didn't. So I'm back to a factory diff cover and the RE bar would probably be fine - a lot cheaper than a new one, too.
 

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the RE bar shouldn't hit a riddler cover. I know many people running this combo. You could shorten the lower and upper arms a little to add a little extra clearance. The last one I installed was way out of the way of the front cover, need a pic to see exactly what is going on.
 

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over at jk-forum, tons of people have complained about the FT trackbars making the clicking/clunking noise.

every time someone else makes a post about it, WOL and all the moderators are quick to chime in saying, "i've had the FT trackbars on for 15,000 miles and haven't heard a peep out of it."

the moderator and/or WOL, then describes the process where you must grease the hell out of it with white lithium grease and torque it down to about 150lb/ft and it will go away.

it is always the fault of the person that has the trackbar, because they didn't "grease it properly." it is NEVER a problem with the FT trackbar, even though dozens of people have the same issue.
 
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the RE bar shouldn't hit a riddler cover. I know many people running this combo. You could shorten the lower and upper arms a little to add a little extra clearance. The last one I installed was way out of the way of the front cover, need a pic to see exactly what is going on.
We pulled the springs and lifted the axle with a jack. The track bar contacted the top part of the pinion gear bulge just before we hit the bump stops. I think that the castor setting would affect this as it will rotate the top part of pumpkin in and out depending on how much castor you dial in. I'm running somewhere around 2.5 to 3 degrees, but it definitely made contact. I have ordered the Poly Performance track bar and will give that a try.
 
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