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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think a previous forum answer regarding remanufactured parts from Autozone may have answered my question, but any input is helpful. Two weeks ago the front right Caliper seized up and was smoking pretty good. Knowing it was a lost cause from my motorpool days, I managed to pry it off the rotor enough to get home without damaging the rotor. I replaced both front calipers (the brakes were only two months old), and today the right side is seizing up again. The Drivers side happened to be a MOPAR from Mexico and the Right side was a MOPAR from china.

I am pretty sure there is nothing else that can make that caliper seize other than poor manufacturing, but it doesn't hurt to ask?
 

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I have read on other forums that sometimes the brake hose can come apart on the inside and at times act as a one-way valve that won't let the pads retract quick enough. Some have said changing the hose fixed the problem. Not saying that is happening to yours but something to check into.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have read on other forums that sometimes the brake hose can come apart on the inside and at times act as a one-way valve that won't let the pads retract quick enough. Some have said changing the hose fixed the problem. Not saying that is happening to yours but something to check into.
it is worth checking again. I didn’t notice any problem when I did a visual inspection, but a physical inspection is always better!
 

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2016 JK 2 door Sport S
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Are you getting any ABS or traction control lights? Rolling from a stop, my brakes felt like they were locking up due to a bad wheel speed sensor. Fixed now, I hope.
Were these new calipers loaded or did you install the pads? Assuming seized means the pistons were stuck in the bores? Can a defective ABS pump cause uncommanded brake line pressure in the caliper?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Seized piston, no light. I’ve had it happen on my Dodge Rams also. I am going out on a limb here, but I’m going to surmise that the salt, snow and water we have in the CNY area don’t help the pistons survival rates. Moreover, I’ve only had front calipers go? Maybe just coincidence?

***ADDED INFORMATION: I removed some brake fluid from the reservoir (it was at max) since temperatures are about 95 degrees. I am also planning to pull the rotors on Saturday. I don’t believe it is warped, but it certainly could be and that could cause a Chinese rebuilt caliper to overheat and fail. It shouldn’t, but it could.
 

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14 JK, Rubi, Red, 6spd, JCR Front and rear bumpers, JCR control arms, TFlex HD Steering and drag lin
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Phenolic resin piston in the caliper. Or so I've read. When it's time for new brakes I'm going with a twin piston big brake kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I believe the problem is solved. It was a surprise to me, considering I've changed more than a couple of these buggers. It appears the bolt securing the brake line to the caliper is not made of Hardened steel, or one could say its cheap. When I pulled the caliper off I noticed a ring of metal around the bolt, and when I did a visual inspection on the threads, a great deal of metal was left. I know I didn't cross thread the bolt because I hand tightened, then used a wrench. Since I was returning it already, I put the bolt back and tried to tighten it, but it quickly stripped. My best guess is metal slipped along side the piston and jammed it up.

Sadly, the new caliper has the same issue, but I was able to tighten it just to the point of not leaking. Hopefully avoiding the same issue, but we have to wait and see if the theory is correct. If not... I'll take the floor out and use my feet to stop! :ROFLMAO:
 
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