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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all
It looks like I have torn my flange / seal thingo at the front of the transfer case that seals onto the front driveshaft. . It is the rubber seal / flange that is part of the Rzeppa Joint. The Stealership tell me it is because of my 2.5" lift and therefore not covered under warranty.

Does anyone know where I can purchase another seal from?
 

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Honestly, don't waste any money repairing that. If it went because of the angle it'll happen again. Get an aftermarket driveshaft. Tom woods, je reel, or ballistic jeep. Just put one on from ballstic this week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
pic

Nope, taken by a camera. and looks very clear on my PC???? both the original and the pic on this post. A little large though, need to scroll over to see it?

IPHONE pic?? Really hard to see on a normal computer. Is what you talking about where your drive shaft goes in?? If so I believe that its toast.
 

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The Rzeppa joints on these shafts are not serviceable. Your options are a new factory shaft, a used factory shaft from someone that upgraded, or going with an aftermarket double cardan shaft.

You can sometimes find free, or very inexpensive, used shafts, but as noted above, it will be a temporary fix. Due to the lifted angles, it will just keep happening. Aftermarket double cardan shafts are a better option, as they handle the angles better. They have their own issues with the caster/pinion angles, though. So do a little research to see what your best option is..
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Rzeppa Joint

Is this a common thing. I thought the large plastic boot was the one to tear, not the seal on the Rzeppa joint. Especially at only 2.5"

The Rzeppa joints on these shafts are not serviceable. Your options are a new factory shaft, a used factory shaft from someone that upgraded, or going with an aftermarket double cardan shaft.

You can sometimes find free, or very inexpensive, used shafts, but as noted above, it will be a temporary fix. Due to the lifted angles, it will just keep happening. Aftermarket double cardan shafts are a better option, as they handle the angles better. They have their own issues with the caster/pinion angles, though. So do a little research to see what your best option is..
 

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i've been running the tatton for about two months now. like it, it's super beefy.
 

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That's the boot on the CV joint. The dealer is correct, it can't handle much lift at all due to the running angle. The joint is fine with it, the boots are not. Might as well cut bait and get a good Woods shaft and be done with it. As for warranty: "You wanna play? You gotta pay."
 

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Replacing my front soon, since the boot is gone next to the transfercase. Any help with below is appreciated.

1. Which drive shaft?
2. Easy to do alone and what do I need to know? Is it just bolt on with torque specs?
3. Any other parts to order or just the drive shaft?

Thank you,

Jim
 

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I run a Adams front. No issues for over a year. They used to be the least expensive but went up due to manufactures cost and sealed joints,

Remember, with double carden shafts. Adjustable control arms might be needed to run at the correct angles. DC shafts are more sensitive to angles. Especially the rear because it's always under load.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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The Rzeppa joints on these shafts are not serviceable. Your options are a new factory shaft, a used factory shaft from someone that upgraded, or going with an aftermarket double cardan shaft.

You can sometimes find free, or very inexpensive, used shafts, but as noted above, it will be a temporary fix. Due to the lifted angles, it will just keep happening. Aftermarket double cardan shafts are a better option, as they handle the angles better. They have their own issues with the caster/pinion angles, though. So do a little research to see what your best option is..


There is a kit to service the joint, but it is more than replacing it.

You can also re-pack the grease in the joints to extend their life and excessive heat build up [boot deterioration]. I have 74,000 lifted miles [from 2.5" to now 4.5"] and 11" travel front shocks on factory driveshafts [2dr]. My rear boot tore about 10k ago and I replaced it with another stocker. If I remember right, my front driveshaft is still the original when I bought it in 09, just re-greased/maintained.

I prefer to keep them for now because the pinion separation is so terrible on these housings and you have to run low caster numbers to get a decent pinion angle…but I'll be fixing that with a cut and turn soon.
 

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I just built a custom rzeppa joint/ tatton style front drive shaft (small tube)because my cv burned up in 5000 miles. then broke my case (sure my fault for not greasing it) but who really wants to pull out drive lines to service them. also i heard of people using non serviceable cv and they hold up the best.
 

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what is pinion separation?? does it affect both front and rear?

6* fixed between caster and pinion. You can't change one without affecting the other. Unless of coarse the knuckles are rotated like Goody did.
Rear -there's no caster angle only pinion.



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