JKOwners Forum banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a quick question. I know this topic has been discussed but I can't find the specific answer I am looking for. I have an 07 rubicon unlimited, auto, 3.5 inch Rock Krawler lift, 35 inch tires. Once I installed all the new goods, as with most, at full flex my front drive shaft was contacting the skid plate, which led to failure.

I am planning on putting on the new Woods shaft this weekend and was wondering if with the new shaft it would still make contact at full flex and if I need to notch or trim my stock skid or if it would not make contact after ant longer. Thank you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
458 Posts
I have an RK 3.5 and I just left the plate off. It hasnt been an issue, I just pick my lines carefully. You could notch the plate just to be safe or leave it off and replace your tranny pan with the RK heavy duty one to be safe (one of my future plans)
 

·
Official Monkey Business
Joined
·
12,215 Posts
I assume that you are talking about the stock drive shaft right? Just go with an after market shaft. They are way stronger but somewhat smaller diamater than stock. Then it'll clear no prob.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes, that is what I was wondering...I am replacing the stock shaft (which would rub the skid when fully flexed) with the tom woods shaft that I will be putting on this weekend. My question was would the difference in shaft diameter between the stock and aftermarket be enough to keep it from still contacting and rubbing the skid at full flex. Thanks for the help.:beer:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,730 Posts
well. you have addressed the issue with the stock ds rubbing the skid plate.

now take a look at the the picture above. see something wrong at the transmission end?

i do.......


this is a commonly mistaked issue... (people believe they lose there drive shafts to ONLY skid plates)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
911 Posts
well. you have addressed the issue with the stock ds rubbing the skid plate.

now take a look at the the picture above. see something wrong at the transmission end?

i do.......


this is a commonly mistaked issue... (people believe they lose there drive shafts to ONLY skid plates)
Yep. Even with skid grinded out the shaft is gonna rub the oil pan lip or something and tears the boot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,828 Posts
I just removed the crossmember for the time being. In the process of putting in new front shaft. I'll bolt the crossmember back up when I'm done and see if there is any contact. I'm on the RK 3.5 x-factor on 35's as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks guys. I guess it just depends on each individual set up. I guess once I put my woody on this weekend I will just have to flex it out and check for rubbing.

^^That is the same set up I am running. If you flex yours after putting your crossmember back in let me know if you have any rubbing. Thank you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,678 Posts
The fact that you have the rubicon sway bar disco it may just keep you from hitting the skid or the exhaust cross member. The woods shaft is a little smaller diameter and it does not have a dust boot on the splines. I have 5" of lift with my 12" coil overs and at full droop disconnected I hit the exhaust cross pipe. If you can trim the the skid plate I would still do it just for a bit of extra clearance. Even though you have more flex with the sway bar disco it will still limit axle droop because the links are still hooked to the axle. Best thing to do is to install the new shaft and flex it to see if it rubs. If it does you can add limiting straps so you don't get too much droop. Too much droop can also cause another problem at the pinion end of the shaft where the u-joint yoke of the driveshaft will hit the pinion end and flatten it out. You can see this in the photo if you look at the bottom of the circle it has been flattened out by over flexing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,192 Posts
The stock tranny skid pre-2010 or so has to be clearanced for virtually any front drive shaft not to hit during extension. (The later rigs just have a bar that runs across the pan.) You can cut away the front portion a bit, but it may still hit in the center where there's a reinforcement pressed into the crossmember. We had some success on a homeboy's rig beating a flat into it right at that spot.

The earlier stock skids aren't too bad, the limiting factor is the wimpy crossmember. PSC, Or-Fab and some others offer much better units at around $200. The transfer case on a JK is clocked up enough that the stock plate will generally get the job done. There are any number of oil & trans pan skids out there that will get you some protection in that area.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top