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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I'm messing around in CAD with a front bumper design and wanted to get your feedback. I still might add holes and brackets to mount the stock fog lights but I'm not sure. The shackle tab plates bolt to the stock frame location. I made the plate 3/16" and the tab 3/4", do you guys think that will be strong enough? Also, I thought about bringing the winch down inside the bumper but I'm not sure if it's really needed. Anyway, I'm open to ideas/criticism so fire away.
 

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One thing to keep in mind is the bolt hole spacing for bolts into the frame plates aren't the same between the top and bottom. If I remember correctly the top row of bolts is slightly wider than the bottom.

Also if you want to keep the factory fog lights, you'll have to find someway to mount them, as they are connected to the factory plastic bumper cover and if you want to sink the winch down in they will probably be in the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've slotted both d-ring mounting plates and the front plate for the bumper. From the pic does it look like it will work or will I need to bump the bottom slots in? When I measured the jeep I assumed it was symmetrical and only measure the spread across the top set of mounting holes...

I have removed the stock plastic bumper about 6 months ago and have been running the metal inner bumper with the crush cans on it. I just zip-tied my license plate to it and cut the ends off with an angle grinder to give it a stubby look and clean it up a bit. The green channel is a representation of my current bumper minus the cans.

I planned on running the fog lights off two little brackets per light as the picture shows. Figured I'd just bolt them to the light and tack the whole thing in place and trim the hole with door trim tom make it look a little cleaner. Tried searching for a grommet that would work to clean it up visually but to get the right ID the OD would be huge. I want to avoid using tube on the bumper (minus the stinger of course) cuz if I run everything as plate I can have it cut out at work for material cost. Do you think this would work for locating the fog lights?

Also, how wide is the "foot" on a farm jack? I don't have one yet to measure myself but eventually I want to lift it when I have the funds and will need one. I thought I could widen the slots on the bottom to fit the foot and give me a point to use the jack. I imagine that it's 1.5 to 2" and that might make the bumper look goofy with such large slots...just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Oh and you're right about the winch...with the fog lights there's no way its coming down into the bumper. No biggie, I don't mind it up top I just know a lot of guys say it's better if it's lower in the bumper.
 

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I would change the thickness of the shackle tabs to from 3/4" to 1". Looks nice. I'll throw a tape on my hi-lift when I get home so you can have the width. What size plate did you use for the rectangular plates for the shackles? I would use at least 1/2" Plate for those.
 

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nice design, although you mention the jeep isnt lifted, so i would ditch the stinger... IMO nothing looks worse than a stinger on anything other than a highly modified jeep... i would add a small bar just for winch protection, looks way better IMO.

im also planning on making a bumper, it will be of my own design but i looked closely at this one for ideas:



as you see, the bumper has the stock fog lights and the winch is recessed, thats also what im aiming for...



in order not to have the bolts exposed, i will weld them to a plate, and then put safety nuts from behind... i guess this is hot the stock one is mounted??? i havent removed the stock bumper yet, but i took a look at it and it gave me the impression this is how its done....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I would change the thickness of the shackle tabs to from 3/4" to 1". Looks nice. I'll throw a tape on my hi-lift when I get home so you can have the width. What size plate did you use for the rectangular plates for the shackles? I would use at least 1/2" Plate for those.
I'm at 3/8" plate and 3/4" tabs. I can bump the plate up to half inch but the laser at work only cuts up to 3/4 material so I wanted to stick with that. do you think it will be that big of an issue? I looked around and used the dimensions I found most common on the web... http://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-08-09-2010-2011-2012-Jeep-Wrangle-JK-D-Ring-Bracket-Mount-Black-/111389659765?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19ef575275&vxp=mtr
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
nice design, although you mention the jeep isnt lifted, so i would ditch the stinger... IMO nothing looks worse than a stinger on anything other than a highly modified jeep... i would add a small bar just for winch protection, looks way better IMO.

im also planning on making a bumper, it will be of my own design but i looked closely at this one for ideas:



as you see, the bumper has the stock fog lights and the winch is recessed, thats also what im aiming for...



in order not to have the bolts exposed, i will weld them to a plate, and then put safety nuts from behind... i guess this is hot the stock one is mounted??? i havent removed the stock bumper yet, but i took a look at it and it gave me the impression this is how its done....
I am gonna bring the stinger down a bit I think. After looking at it with my work bench and my motorcycle in the garage it will be a tight squeeze if I don't. I do plan to lift it later on and the stinger wouldn't have been above the top of the grill but regardless I think you're right. Probably would be a bit much and I can always cut it off and weld a different one on later.

I used the stock fog light location, it looks like they pushed there's out to the sides a bit... and I think my bumper may be a bit narrower...I could lower the winch about an inch but it's more metal and I'm trying to keep it on the cheap side (while still building something pretty strong of course.

I would love to see how it attaches on the inside. I would think it would be a weaker design structurally. It would have to have some sort of skeleton on the inside to attach it to the frame so it would seem like the d-ring tab wouldn't be directly attached to the frame and the pulling forces would have to travel through the skeleton to get to the frame. I could be completely wrong of course. (they probably have loads of testing data disproving all that lol)...sure would like to see a pic from the backside though. Regardless it's a damn good looking bumper. Those welds are excellent.

The stock bumper is attached from the inside back to a thin metal inner bumper with the cans, it's just a hollow plastic shell....surprising how flimsy it is actually.

I don't think I mind it bolting from the outside so much, I'm gonna bed liner the whole thing and the grill so it should look decent.

What material thickness would you guys go on the other plates. Pretty sure I have it modeled at 1/4"
 

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my plan is to make the 2 winch plate supports (the bigger ones to the sides of the winch plate, light blue in the pic) with a protruding D ring mount... and cut a slot in the front plate for the mount to pass through. the winch plate supports are welded directly to the plate bolted to the frame, as well as to the top plate, so that would make the D ring mounts strong enough.... since these would only be 1/4", i would add more pieces to make the D ring mount thicker... these pieces would be welded to the front plate only, but im confident it will be enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I think your idea sounds much better than the design above. Maybe I am overthinking how strong it actually needs to be because that seems like a poor design to me. The shackle tab doesn't mount directly to the frame so the pulling forces are applied to the outer skin of the bumper before they are transferred to the frame. I see a potential to buckle the outer skin but again maybe I am over estimating the forces involved? I'd rather have it a bit too beefy than weak. Sure would suck to design it and build it and have it fail the first time I use it....embarrassing lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Brought the stinger down a bit, as a result the gusset got a bit wider and I think I like it better now. It seems a bit more balanced with the slots on the bottom of the bumper.
 

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looks way better IMO....

as for the D ring mounts, i changed the design again. i will weld the 3/4" tabs to the plate that bolts directly to the frame. and then i will make a slot on the front plate for the tabs to pass through, and weld them to the outside. this, plus the tab on the plate that holds the winch mount (original idea), should make for a very strong mount.

whats the purpose of the gusset under the stinger?? i would leave just the tube, maybe later you will want to add lights and theres a good spot to put them, either round lights or a led bar....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The gusset is just for looks really. Ties in the slots on the lower portion. I'm not really a fan of round lights on the bumper. I would like a 50 inch light bar up top and some square leds by the mirrors.
 

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I looked up my drawing from when I made my bumper and for the bolt hole spacings (center to center), I used 5.25" between the top and 5.125" between the bottom. I have 25" between the top inner bolts. I don't recall having any issues when I went to install, but double check those.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Those are the measurements I got as well. The test plate I made bolted up just fine but I'm gonna change the slots to holes anyway. Looking into getting the stinger bent at work and then it's just a matter of sending the files to my laser department and then to press brake. Our welder in tooling is waiting on a part so it might be a couple weeks before I can weld it up. I'll take pics when I get all the pieces together.
 

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I looked up my drawing from when I made my bumper and for the bolt hole spacings (center to center), I used 5.25" between the top and 5.125" between the bottom. I have 25" between the top inner bolts. I don't recall having any issues when I went to install, but double check those.
great info! so, the 25" are from center to center of the top inner bolts, right?? and, do you happen to remember the vertical distance between the top and bottom holes?? i have my design but its still lacking measurements, and since i dont have much time to remove and install the bumper, i would really appreciate the measurements if you have them.

thanx!
 
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